jwscab wrote: ↑Tue Jan 16, 2018 12:06 pm
weird, I am using chrome. I logged out and back in too
I'm not sure what the issue would be then. I created an album on my facebook account for RC10talk. When ever I want to share something I'll just upload it there and copy the photo link. Problem solved
mk-Zero wrote: ↑Tue Jan 16, 2018 1:23 pm
Anthony, where the heck you been?!?
Been in the racing scene. It's taken up a lot of my time. I'm now on the executive at our local outdoor off-road track too, which takes time up. I'm still working on replicas though. I paint like there's no tomorrow for the locals also, which we all know takes time. The wifey has felt so rejected over the last couple of years, maybe I should step back and enjoy some crawling and not worry about trying to beat Rod on the track lol.
I've been collecting parts for a short time while I was waiting for my chassis set to arrive. I have a few things but still have to wait on a few things before assembling parts.
My plan is to build a clean new built buggy that would have been ready...
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I think I will try this brace out, I just have to order a couple more bulkheads first.
Hyeong, what's the difference in height of the two rear bulkheads?
Dual told me the difference is 2mm. he get me the original bulkhead too but i didn't measure it myself yet but it looks pretty much 2mm to me :mrgreen:
First of all I would like to warmly thank Jake and Nikki for their awesome research and very dedicated work and telented craftmanship that made this (and many others) build thread possible. Like mentioned earlier, you guys are costing...
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That race was awesome where Kyle Reed took the win from Masami.
This is something I have wanted to do since seeing the pics of this car posted here. I have all the machines at my disposal to do this but never wanted to really take the dive. I have already started collecting the parts for this car and have...
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I'm a bit in doubt, if I should use metric hardware (M3, M4 screws, 3mm hingepins) or US (4-40 and 3-32 and 1/8 hingepins).
US has more style an original look.
Metric is easier to find. And I would have some 3mm titanium rods for the hingepins,...
I was just wondering if anyone is still making these chassis kits, either the NIX91 or the Justin/Fred version? Maybe someone has a spare that they'd like to sell or trade?
Thanks in advance
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Actually, as another option, if you order a full set of 91 Stealth parts (Niki's for example) and this book by Steve Husting (the photos provide an excellent reference), you have pretty much everything needed to design your own chassis plates. It's...
So, I've been gifted one these kits by a good dude for helping him out by storing stuff the last 6-7 months or so. I think it's way overpayment for my services, but he disagrees. :lol:
I knew it was only a matter of time before someone made this a...
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It already takes me forever to get a car built. And now with getting back into racing more, and traveling to events, I have even less money to put into them.
Didn't see a thread started on this yet. Thanks to Andrew Cooke of Grand Prix 3D for making this dream build possible.
Pic borrowed from his Facebook page.
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...oh interesting!
I have a B2 gearbox that I've used to therefore make at least a 'B2 compatible 2.4:1' casing! ;-)
This has the slightly larger diff gear than the original stealth, but smaller than the 2.6:1 type, and yes the bigger idler and...
I've got my car back together. I think it is a CE, it has a stealth trans. I am using 2.1 rear 3piece wheels with losi tires. I put in a modern 27t stock motor(one of the unlabeled epic handout types)
What is a good gearing to use for general around...
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Thanks for all the help,
Now if it would just dry up outsde so I can test it out.
-Anthony
