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That is a very nice team car. Congratulations!

I am sure that you do not want to hear it, but I am going to echo what others already stated. That car belongs on a shelf. You are crazy to be thinking about running it.

Nope it is not going on a shelf. I'm not going to abuse it but I bought it to be used and run. That's what they were designed for.

If it's just on a shelf there's no point me having it as far as I'm concerned.

Maybe that's just me.

Now, back to parts and stuff.

Is 6440 the correct shock rebuild kit for these shocks?

That is one sharp looking car.

The rear droop could be a few things... maybe they forgot the shock travel limiters inside one shock on the shaft. I've seen the rear arm kinda rub the chassis preventing down travel. Also sometimes the arms aren't perfectly symetrical too and depending on the camber link, at the extreme low end of travel the universal could be hitting the arm preventing further travel. Even just shimming the universal wrong (2 inside shims vs. 2 outside shims) could cause the universal to limit the downward travel a little.

For shock rebuild kits for those... I believe you want #6440.

You could buy the ReRe CVAs with the rear axle conversion (and toss the axles). I still think you'll need the blue axle spacers separately though.

lmw94002 wrote: ↑Wed Sep 13, 2017 8:29 am That is one sharp looking car.

The rear droop could be a few things... maybe they forgot the shock travel limiters inside one shock on the shaft. I've seen the rear arm kinda rub the chassis preventing down travel. Also sometimes the arms aren't perfectly symetrical too and depending on the camber link, at the extreme low end of travel the universal could be hitting the arm preventing further travel. Even just shimming the universal wrong (2 inside shims vs. 2 outside shims) could cause the universal to limit the downward travel a little.

For shock rebuild kits for those... I believe you want #6440.

You could buy the ReRe CVAs with the rear axle conversion (and toss the axles). I still think you'll need the blue axle spacers separately though.

Thanks, I'd discovered 6440 and thought it looked like the right one. Now just got to find a set in the UK.

I also thought about the travel limiter in the shock. I managed to find a pack of limiters on eBay, as well as some 1.32 shock shafts, so I've ordered those as they were cheap and will probably come in handy.

So re-re CVAs (#6371) plus the conversion kit (#6801) plus 2x B44 longer dogbones (#9911) will convert the rear?

What are the blue spacers you mentioned?

What is needed for the front wheels? Just steering arms and axles from the re-re?

What a nice car!
Agreed the JC 5 spoke wheels are a little ugly but it is the best way to solve the problem of wheels.
The alternative is expensive:

6801 Rc10 front wheel conversion (steering arms, axles, bearings) $16 USD

6371 3/16" CVA $30 USD
7364 rear hubs $4.50 USD
9608 axle spacers $4 USD
7377 bearing spacers (crush tubes) $2.50
3977 3/16 x 3/8" bearing X2 $12

That all adds up real quick and many of those parts are hard to find and none all in one place so postage will start adding up too.

As far as the shocks go... Unless your going to race I would'nt bother rebuilding the shocks.
The stock silicon o-rings are way past their end of life. But they will be fine.
The rebuild kit is: 6440 of you really are set on it.

bluewormx wrote: ↑Wed Sep 13, 2017 9:09 am What a nice car!
Agreed the JC 5 spoke wheels are a little ugly but it is the best way to solve the problem of wheels.
The alternative is expensive:

6801 Rc10 front wheel conversion (steering arms, axles, bearings) $16 USD

6371 3/16" CVA $30 USD
7364 rear hubs $4.50 USD
9608 axle spacers $4 USD
7377 bearing spacers (crush tubes) $2.50
3977 3/16 x 3/8" bearing X2 $12

That all adds up real quick and many of those parts are hard to find and none all in one place so postage will start adding up too.

As far as the shocks go... Unless your going to race I would'nt bother rebuilding the shocks.
The stock silicon o-rings are way past their end of life. But they will be fine.
The rebuild kit is: 6440 of you really are set on it.

Thanks for all of that. I've actually ordered a set of the JC wheels, they'll do for now.

I wasn't planning on rebuilding the shocks, I'm fairly happy with action of them as they are. But then I noticed the droop issue, and thinking it might be the travel limiter, thought it might be handy to have the o-rings and stuff if I might be pulling the shocks apart to remedy that.

BTW I forgot.
Somebody already mentioned it. The CVA shafts are too short. To fix this you will also need:
9911 B44.2 center rear axle X2 $12

and another thing the rere rear hubs 7364 have terrible slop in the bearing recess, I would recomend trying the 3/16 x 3/8" flanged bearing with the stock hubs, but you may need more 3/16 shims.

The droop issue is probably that when built the ball joints where not screwed in the same amount.
Anyhow the limiters can be added and removed without rebuilding the shocks.

I buy o-rings on ebay the correct size are 1/8 x 1/4 x 1/16 BS 006
Their really is no need to do a complete rebuild since the internals are new.
To take them apart:
https://www.teamassociated.com/pdf/cars_and_trucks/RC10/6440_shocks.pdf

Peter
where are you going to run this car: back garden, street or track?

If you where to run on an track with jumps you will end up bending the thin tie rods, either get thicker rere ones or go with lunsford titanium ones. Problem bieng that the stock tie rods are 4-40 threads and modern tie rods are 3mm they will screw in but the threads will be damaged. So your best bet would be to set aside the old balls and tie rods and replace with rpm ball cups and 3mm tie rods.
If your going to run on astro I would put zip ties on the stock bellcrank servo saver, or even better get the worlds rere bellcranks.

Obviously for running up and down the street or in your garden these issues are moot.

bluewormx wrote: ↑Wed Sep 13, 2017 10:10 am Peter
where are you going to run this car: back garden, street or track?

If you where to run on an track with jumps you will end up bending the thin tie rods, either get thicker rere ones or go with lunsford titanium ones. Problem bieng that the stock tie rods are 4-40 threads and modern tie rods are 3mm they will screw in but the threads will be damaged. So your best bet would be to set aside the old balls and tie rods and replace with rpm ball cups and 3mm tie rods.
If your going to run on astro I would put zip ties on the stock bellcrank servo saver, or even better get the worlds rere bellcranks.

Obviously for running up and down the street or in your garden these issues are moot.

Thanks again. Any running will likely be garden, street or park. I don't have a track near me so it's not likely to be run on a track anytime soon.

Thanks for the heads up on the tie rods. Don't suppose you have a link or part numbers for the alternative rods and cups? It would be handy to know what to look for if I ever need to.

Zip ties on the bell cranks??

Even bashing, the Titanium ti-rods are a good idea in case you clip some obstacle. Often you can pick up the stock ReRe turnbuckle bag from the kit that someone didn't use in forums and ebay. eg. I have one in the bag I'd sell at some point.

Good RPM ballcups are a nice cheap upgrade over stock AE ones IMO.

rpm rod ends 4-40 73381 (white) or 73372(black) $5 USD
Associated tie rod set 6259 $16 USD
Lunsford punisher titanium #2001 $33.50 USD

bluewormx wrote: ↑Wed Sep 13, 2017 10:52 am rpm rod ends 4-40 73381 (white) or 73372(black) $5 USD
Associated tie rod set 6259 $16 USD
Lunsford punisher titanium #2001 $33.50 USD

Thanks. Found and ordered the #6259 set whilst it was available.

So I've pulled the rear shocks off, one of them was shorter than the other so I stripped the shocks to see what was going on.

Both had 3 travel spacers as per the manual.

On the shorter one, when I pulled the piston shaft out the seals came out with it. On the other one that didn't happen, but I took the seals out anyway and noticed a difference.

Out of the longer shock came 2 plastic washers, 2 o-rings, a plastic spacer and the split washer that holds it all in.

From the other came the split washer, 2 plastic washers, 2 o-rings and TWO plastic spacers. That extra spacer is probably the difference in shock length and the reason why the seals came out with the piston.

I've got a rebuild kit on order so I'll put them both back together properly.

But, even with the shocks off, the droop was still uneven. I checked the lengths of the camber turnbuckles. One was shorter than the other, but it was the droopier one. I evened them up anyway.

Looking at the rear arms it seems the less droopy one stops against the chassis earlier than the other. It might be a case of needing to sand it a little.

I also used something called "sticky stuff remover" to get the old servo tape off. That worked great.

What size allen driver are the screws meant to be that hold the battery holder or the Stealth transmission? I thought they 0.050 but that driver was too small. I ended up using a 1.5mm driver to remove and refit the battery holder.

There are a lot of places where people interchange the socket cap, with button head, with flat head / bevel washer. Most importantly, they should be 4-40 thread. Of course the chassis aluminum screws and motor screws are different.

I use the manual all time for reference on sizes and such. But even the parts list sometimes calls out screw sizes/types you don't need. I put in a big order of stainless steel hardware for my Worlds and SSC10 and B6D from McMaster. You can stock up and look shiney for a decent price.

The Button head screws and the flat head screws need 1/16" allen driver.

Socket head screws need 3/32" driver

set screws use 0.050" driver

stealth diff screw is 5/64"(2mm)

Be carefull all screws are 4-40 SAE
Motor screws are metric M3 don't mix them up.

Shocks.
You need to measure the distance between the bottom of the shocks and rod ends, both sides need to be the same.