My RC10 (runner)

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R16
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Re: My RC10 (runner)

Post by R16 »

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FGPXLE17B0c

My friend's worlds car and B6.1D
Last edited by klavy69 on Sat Nov 17, 2018 3:55 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Reason: installed youtube link correctly

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Re: My RC10 (runner)

Post by R16 »

RC10 update
RC10_8.jpg
・B4 30deg caster block, exchange left and right to make the caster angle 25deg
・T4 trailing axle, a part of the steering arm is cut off to increase maximum steering angle
・Front shock oil ASC#32.5
・Remove balance weights on the nose plate

Video
https://youtu.be/ayJIQHVBVdE
Last edited by klavy69 on Wed Jul 11, 2018 8:06 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Reason: fixed youtube link

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Re: My RC10 (runner)

Post by XLR8 »

Sweet. The car has a lot of front grip. No?
Doug

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Re: My RC10 (runner)

Post by R16 »

Thanks for your question.

The car turns well (not much understeer in acceleration) and flies nicely as you can see in the video.
But it has less rear traction and sometime has a hard time on jumps depending on a surface condition.
RC10_9_1.jpg
RC10_9_1.jpg (53.56 KiB) Viewed 2172 times
RC10_9_1.jpg
RC10_9_1.jpg (53.56 KiB) Viewed 2172 times
I tested this battery position today at the same place. My friend preferred this better.
But I did not feel that I could drive this car fast. So it may also depend on a driving style.
(he drives RC cars much much better than me though.)

I might move a battery rearward with a transverse battery position next time.

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Re: My RC10 (runner)

Post by Lonestar »

The car certainly looks like a handful to drive...
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Re: My RC10 (runner)

Post by R16 »

Thanks for your comment.

The car was unsteady. The track had a sandy surface. So I needed more weight in rear. I am preparing two RC10s with different battery positions for comparison. In stead of moving the battery rearward with the transverse battery position, I decide to use the short wheel base holes on the rear arm mount. I will report results of tests hopefully soon.

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Re: My RC10 (runner)

Post by R16 »

<RC10 ver.2 and ver.3>
RC10_10.jpg
RC10_10.jpg (66.76 KiB) Viewed 2172 times
RC10_10.jpg
RC10_10.jpg (66.76 KiB) Viewed 2172 times
I made two RC10s. Left is version 2 and right is version 3.

RC10 in the first post is convert into version 2 and version 3 is newly built with used and re-re parts.
Both use the short wheel base position in rear arm mounts.
One goal here is to understand differences between two cars with different battery mounting positions (red arrows).

I finish testing version 2 and am working on version 3 now (V2 big bore shock on RC10 is new to me).
I start having one answer to which is good or bad (faster or slower).
But I would mainly like to share my experience here.

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Re: My RC10 (runner)

Post by R16 »

<RC10 ver.2>
RC10_15.jpg
RC10_15.jpg (58.25 KiB) Viewed 2172 times
RC10_15.jpg
RC10_15.jpg (58.25 KiB) Viewed 2172 times
This RC10 is rebuilt from the RC10 in page 1. The battery is installed longitudinally.

<Front>
RC10_11.jpg
・Add 20g weight right by the steering servo
・Front bumper from Shapeway (rapid_rc)
・Extended front shock tower from Carbon works (3mm)
・0.89 V2 shocks with big bore spring
・#32.5 oil and blue spring and #3 piston, outside hole on the arm and inside on the tower
・Shock tower and suspension mounts are tightened with hex nuts
・RC10GT steering bellcrank
・30deg caster block (ASC6210)
・Inline steering block with vintage RC10 front axle (need to use B3 type front wheel)
・Two shims on the steering block under the ball stud

<Middle>
RC10_12.jpg
RC10_12.jpg (57.62 KiB) Viewed 2172 times
RC10_12.jpg
RC10_12.jpg (57.62 KiB) Viewed 2172 times
・Short lipo behind the steering servo and set in the longitudinal direction
・B44 battery post
・RC10 battery cup attached by double sided tape
・ESC is moved forward as much as possible
・Radio receiver is placed on the opposite side of the ESC with 15g weight below it (same as B1.5 in page 2)
・Add the brace from the rear bulkhead to the chassis (different chassis' holes are used)

<Rear>
RC10_13.jpg
RC10_14.jpg
・Normal length shock tower with wing mount holes from Carbon works (3mm) and Kyosho RB6 wing mount
・V2 shocks from re-re RC10 worlds with big bore spring
・#30 oil and blue spring, outside hole on the arm and the most inside hole on the tower
・RC10T2 arm mounts (3 degree toe in) with short wheelbase holes
・B4 RR hub carriers (ASC9584), 0-degree toe in with axle spacer crush tube
・Vintage stealth transmission case with B4 top shaft
・SC10 rear hex adapter to achieve rear width close to 250mm with modern tires
・Yokomo B-MAX2 CVA shaft where holes are opened up to accommodate RC10 CVA coupler
・Add 2mm shim between the motor plate and chassis

<Characteristic>
・Black RC10
・The car is twitchy and unsteady on the straight (due to too fast initial response) and suffers from understeer in acceleration. My friend who tested this car is happy with it and does not want any change. His reflex is much better than mine and driving style is aggressive (full speed and braking with sliding rear tires).
・In a carpet track, this car ran very well with the long wheel base and the second hole from the inside on the rear shock tower

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Re: My RC10 (runner)

Post by Asso_man! »

Add weight in the back and/or under teh battery until the car is behaving your style. Remember they were designed for old NiCad batteries and heavy brushed motors. If you try to at least place the additional weights where they would belong with old technology, you will find most of its natural behaviour back. Lipos and brushless motors are way lighter these days.
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Re: My RC10 (runner)

Post by popboy905 »

i would also try removing the tie rod braces from the bulkhead to the chassie, allow the tube to flex a little will increase rear grip

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Re: My RC10 (runner)

Post by R16 »

<RC10 ver.3>
RC10_16.jpg
This RC10 is newly built. The battery is installed in the transverse direction.
For me, this car is best because it turns well, has good rear traction and jump is easy.
I will describe how I set the car which will be answer to Asso_man! and popboy905 (thank you very much for your comments) in next post.

<Front>
RC10_17.jpg
・Add 20g weight right by the steering servo
・Front bumper from Shapeway (rapid_rc)
・Extended front shock tower from Fibre Lyte
・V2 big bore shock
・#32.5 oil and white spring and #1.6 piston, outside hole on the arm and middle on the tower
・Shock tower and suspension mounts are tightened with hex nuts
・RC10GT steering bellcrank
・30deg caster block (ASC6210)
・Inline steering block with RC10GT axle (use B4 type front wheel same as the worlds re-re)
・Two shims on the steering block under the ball end
・B4/B44 low profile ball stud is used for the upper linkage on the shock tower side

<Middle>
・Short lipo behind the steering servo and set in the transverse direction
・RC10 battery cups are attached by double sided tape
・ESC is middle of the battery and the rear bulkhead
・Radio receiver is right by the ESC and the capacitor of ESC is placed in other side
・Add the brace from the rear bulkhead to the chassis

<Rear>
RC10_18.jpg
・Low profile shock tower for big bore shocks from Carbon works (3mm) and B6 wing mount
・V2 big bore shock from B6 (maybe the longer V2 shock cylinder of B5M/B6.1 might be better to have enough droop)
・#30 oil, #1.6 piston and white spring, outside hole on the arm and the most inside hole on the tower
・Re-re white rear RC10 arm mounts (3 degree toe in) with short wheelbase holes (tightened with hex nuts for all screws)
・B4 FT aluminum hub carriers, 0-degree toe in with axle spacer crush tube
・Vintage stealth transmission case with B4 top shaft
・SC10 rear hex adapter to achieve rear width close to 250mm with modern tires
・Yokomo B-MAX2 CVA shaft where holes are opened up to accommodate RC10 CVA coupler
・Add 2mm shim between the motor plate and chassis
・B4/B44 low profile ball stud is used for the upper linkage on the rear bulkhead side

<Other things>
・B stamp chassis
・Lunsford turnbuckle
・Front width is same as the rear
・I set this car for an indoor clay track
・I have not run this car on a carpet yet

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Re: My RC10 (runner)

Post by R16 »

<weight distribution>
I have thought that, with modern electronics (brushless motor, Li-Po battery, servo and ESC) and modern tires, we can find some better weight distribution to run RC10 on modern tracks (I mean not loose dirt).
Weight.jpg
For RC10 ver.3, I tried to find the distribution in the following way (with the short wheelbase position on the rear arm mount). #1~3 correspond to numbers in the above figure.

#1. I put a low-profile servo, battery, and ESC close together. This made the car really twitchy because of too fast yawing response. The car also suffered from understeering in acceleration possibly because the front was too light.

#2. Then, I put a normal-size servo and 20g balance weight right by the servo. Weights were widely distributed. The car became less twitchy and turned better.

#3. Finally, I moved ESC rearward to find a positon where the car is stable but still has good yawing response. I also add a weight under the battery (battery+weight=200g) to avoid understeering in acceleration and to have stability. I will try to reduce a weight under the battery next time for agility.

<shock setting>
I have changed a shock setting a little. Current setting is below (only differences are shown). The setting is subject to change under track layout and conditions.

Front
・inside hole on the tower (I will change the piston hole larger and/or oil to #30 next time because the front is a little bit hard)

Rear
・the second hole from outside on the tower
・I add a spacer on the rear shock shaft to avoid binding under compression.
RC10_19.jpg
<Tie rod braces>
I think that in modern tracks with big jumps and a hard and high grip surface, RC10 with a short wheelbase and modern tires generally has a good rear grip. This tie rod damps a pitching motion and reduces damages on the side hole of the rear bulkhead. I can always tighten, loosen or remove the tie rod.

<CVA shaft>
I switch CVA shaft from Yokomo to B44 rear CVA because I broke Yokomo shaft twice. I recommend to open up CVA axle hole to accommodate Yokomo coupler if you want to use Yokomo shaft.
https://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=34582&start=45

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Re: My RC10 (runner)

Post by R16 »

<My friend's RC10 worlds car and RC10 ver.3>



My friend has driven RC10 for years. Another friend, who uses a modern car in a stock setting, drove my RC10.
RC10 worlds car is yellow and RC10 ver.3 is red.

The current shock setting of ver.3 is

Front (B6 V2 front big bore)
Blue spring, inside hole on the tower, (#32.5 oil, #1.6 piston, and outside hole on the arm as before)

Rear (B6 V2 rear big bore, which means stadium truck front cylinder)
Blue spring, second hole from the inside on the tower, (#30 oil, #1.6 piston, and outside hole on the arm as before)

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Re: My RC10 (runner)

Post by broodenburg »

looks like you had lots of fun!

red car looks little bit more twitchy than the worlds?

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Re: My RC10 (runner)

Post by R16 »

broodenburg wrote: Sun Dec 16, 2018 6:53 am looks like you had lots of fun!

red car looks little bit more twitchy than the worlds?
Thank you for your interest and question. Yes, I have lots of fun!

I am okay with this twitchiness. I also changed a front shock tower hole from inside to center and rear shock tower hole from second to third from inside. Then, the car becomes stable and jump gets easier.

If you want to reduce the twitchiness, you can move ESC rearward (rear becomes heavier) or you can reduce the weight under the battery and add weight around the nose plate (front becomes heavier, which I should try) depending on a surface condition.

Since I have used this car a lot, I have broken many parts. Thus, I decided to change 8.5t blushless to the less powerful motor and start making other cars (short wheel base, SWB, laydown and WOIN car as shown, SWB B1.5 and B3). Those are my new projects. I hope that I will make those work.
Attachments
RC10_20.jpg

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