My RC10 Graphite runner

[scr8p]

B2/b3 sport shock bodies

[TomiS]

I ordered a new front shock tower from Factory Works for 0.89 shocks so now I can use those b2 shocks or even big bores if I manage to find a pair. While waiting for the tower to arrive I replaced outer ball cups with white shock rod ends. To me they look yokomo enough but need to get the balls polished as they are a bit tight. I can’t use them inside as they bind quite bad. Even the RPM cups bind so I need to find shorter ball studs somewhere.



Weather is getting better and outdoor tracks are already open so I really need to finish this soon.

[Joksa]

Weather is getting better and outdoor tracks are already open so I really need to finish this soon.

Nice! And hopefully the weather will also stay as good as it is now.

[TomiS]

I don’t like how the allen head bolt sticks out so I drilled the ball and sunk the bolt inside the ball. I think this may even

[NomadRacer]

I learned, here on the forum that RPM ball cups are not RC10 "friendly" in the front end. My fix was to use Lunsford #7995 Punisher ball cups. There is no binding, everything clears nicely. Depending on what turn buckles you use, you may need to shorten/cut a few mm of the end of the ball cup.

[RC10th]

Interesting use of shock ends as tie rod ends...

[TomiS]

Those were the closest thing to Yokomo rod ends I could find. They are a bit stiff though so I’m not sure I can use them. Does those Lunsford’s come in white as well?

[NomadRacer]

Lunsford ball cups are black only. The exception is their super duty (3.5mm) which are gray.

The tightness in the shock rod end with pivot ball can be fixed. Remove the steel pivot and polish the ball portion.

[TomiS]

I polished the balls and now they are good. Maybe I should use rere white ball cups for the upper suspension arms as they are quite small and will clear all. RPM's really are no good. I actually have the same issue on the NIX10M car which is using B4 ballcups, they bind a bit even with shorter balls.

While still waiting for the towers I made a front bumper out of 2mm PUR. Came out pretty good.

[XLR8]

Looks good Tomi. That ball cup interference problem can be a real PITA. So, is PUR anything like Kydex?

[TomiS]

Pur is polyurethane and kydex is somekind of acrylic. I don’t really know the difference, kydex may be stronger but I didn’t have that. The bumper feels strong and quite flexible so I’m sure it will be OK.

I will have even less room for ball cups as I ordered thicker towers from Factory Works. I can lower the steering balls as I have a washers under the balls but not sure it is enough.

[TomiS]

I got the towers today and they had second pair of upper arm holes. No more binding issues as the ball is just enough further away form steering arms.





I like the look of golden shocks so I think I will use them with big bore springs. They feel as smooth as B4 V2 shocks. Now I just need to finish the rear tower or use something I already have.

[TomiS]

I made a rear tower out of abs plastic to see if it works. Looks like it actually is OK and now I need to find someone to cut me one out of carbon or black glassfibre. Joksa perhaps? I may have to limit the droop a little but not much. When rear suspension bottoming out, should the chassis hit the ground?





I also tested my old Protech body and it fits OK. So it looks like I am able to use NIX10M body for this. It's not in best of shape anymore and will paint a new body for that car. But where can I find pink dots for the wheels?

[Joksa]

I made a rear tower out of abs plastic to see if it works. Looks like it actually is OK and now I need to find someone to cut me one out of carbon or black glassfibre. Joksa perhaps?

Ha! I was just thinking I have some 3mm carbon sheet to spare for your tower.
Looks a template

[fst72vette]

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If you dont mind me asking where did you get your steering bell cranks from? I like how you moved the servo to paralell instead of perpendicular.