RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

fst72vette wrote: ↑Sun May 20, 2018 12:08 pm Its weird how these new parts yellowed over the years. I wonder if the plastic packaging or sunlight causes this .... makes you wonder ..... hmmmm

I have a feeling that the environment the parts are kept in have a great deal in determining how their color changes.

Update - I thoroughly and faithfully tried the Distilled H2O & Bleach technique today. It did not work for me. I cannot tell if the pieces are any better or possibly worse than before. The best I can tell is the bleach technique may have removed some green tint, but added some brown (pic below is comparison of test bumper after all my attempts). I tried 3 separate times, with new water/bleach & iced water each time. The parts began to looks worse to me. Plus, the process is quite nasty. I then boiled them in straight distilled water 2 more times to try and "clean" them out.

However, since I have stock pieces outside in a peroxide bath, I took a deep breath and dropped in my RPM transmission and front bumper. So far, no green, and the pieces are appearing to whiten. Crazy. I have had luck with peroxiding RPM parts before, but I have also had them turn green. Seems to be a bit of a crap shoot.

After trying the boil/bleach, lime/baking soda, and peroxide /boil methods on my white RPM pieces, they look worse than before I started. Pretty damn frustrating.

That is all. Rant over

Still working to try and bring back some of the clear RPM pieces to at least their original brightness. In the mean time, I stole these rear RPM arm mounts from another build.

Here are a few progress shots. I was thinking of polishing the entire Litesink motor plate. However, I decided to smooth and polish the edges. I think is makes for a nice touch. It's more noticeable in person. MIP Litedrives have also been polished.

For a lack of words, Astonishing.

NomadRacer wrote: ↑Sun Jun 03, 2018 4:58 pm For a lack of words, Astonishing.

Lol, thanks buddy.

Some more progress pictures. Some people may not like the "modern" Jconcepts towers (and transmission brace yet to be installed) on a vintage build, but I think they fit the build great. I am a big fan of Jconcepts. The CF and details in their parts is second to none.

I spent a lot of time on the front aluminum arm brace. I sanded down the rough edges, and polished it. It's a small piece, but a nice touch. It's hard to show in pictures. I will be swapping out the black Composite Craft plastic front cross mount for an aluminum unit.

More progress. I ended up spending a lot of time on the shocks. I machined a set of hard anodized bodies, so the cap and body sit flush to another. I added gold TiN shafts. I'm also using aluminum spring retainers top and bottom. I even found set screws with small hard plastic ends, so they do not scratch the shock bodies. I may still make some changes to the shocks, but they are good for now.

I also did some machine work to the rear RPM aluminum motor guard. The pictures do not show it well. I also brought down the height to remove the 2 screw holes I will not be using. I polished both the guard and motor plate edges to a high shine.

Rear RPM hubs are here, as are the RPM 3.5mm rod ends to fit the large diameter 6-40 Technacraft TiRods.

More progress pictures.

The clearance to the top of the RPM steering belcranks is very tight. This is after I machined down the 2 large vertical screws, and replaced the top nuts with thin versions. This top deck seems to sit a little higher than my other CC truck. It may have to do with the different front mount. I used a custom made aluminum piece on my other truck, and am temporarily using the stock CC plastic piece on this build.

Amazing

Slider status achieved.

I polished the rear cvd axles. Couldn't resist. I have a NIP set of complete MIP aluminum CVD's that I wanted to keep sealed. I wanted to use the 2 NIP separate bones, combined with a loose (but still new) set of axles and pieces. However, I noticed the color of the finish on the drives in the full set is lighter and bluer than the individual pieces. I prefer this color, so I held my breath and opened the full set. Such nice pieces.

Incredible polishing work. I name this build as "RC10T Unubtanium"

NomadRacer wrote: ↑Fri Jun 15, 2018 6:45 am Incredible polishing work. I name this build as "RC10T Unubtanium"

Thanks buddy!

Roller status achieved. Still many details to sort, and I need to find a Composite Craft #10205 battery brace. I put on the RC10 brace just to see how it looks.

I am unsure if I want to keep the Novak electronics in. Andrew Rizzo built a beautiful CC RC10T with similar electronics. I am not sure if I like all that orange on this truck. Any suggestions are welcome. I have some nice vintage Tekin electronics that would look great. I do love the Team Checkpoint Money motor!

I think it looks tight with the orange Novak components, especially seeing as you have a Novak servo to boot.

My 2 pennies......

Ditch the servo. It's far too old to be in it...... for a period correct guy such as myself. I don't know the specs on them, but i always thought they were made more for pan cars anyway.

You should ditch the ESC too. There's a whole lot of expensive aftermarket stuff on that truck to run an entry level ESC. It's also a bit too old for the rest of the truck. Need to go with a later M1c or early HPc if you want to stick with Novak

The receiver................. just send that to me.

scr8p wrote: ↑Sun Jun 17, 2018 8:51 pm My 2 pennies......

Ditch the servo. It's far too old to be in it...... for a period correct guy such as myself. I don't know the specs on them, but i always thought they were made more for pan cars anyway.

You should ditch the ESC too. There's a whole lot of expensive aftermarket stuff on that truck to run an entry level ESC. It's also a bit too old for the rest of the truck. Need to go with a later M1c or early HPc if you want to stick with Novak

The receiver................. just send that to me.

I concur on everything. If that were my build I would go all black w/ vintage Tekin and a nice servo like a Futaba S9302.

His first one is decked out with Tekin stuff, so I can understand not wanting to go that route again.

https://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=41945

Problem is, in that time frame, there really aren't many other options. It's Tekin or Novak. Or maybe wait for some KO Propo stuff to come along.