Winter Budget Beater RC10EGT

[Toaster]

Completed a hardware swap to the correct front tower. Gave everything a good scrub and although the tower was a used one laying around, it is the correct ‘thick’ version and appears to have cleaned up pretty well.

[Toaster]

Some parts I left in the peroxide bath but these were white enough at least in my humble opinion for this project to start throwing the front together.

[Toaster]

The peroxide bath seems to have done the trick. Not mint but way better than how they started out. Cleaned in warm water with a toothbrush and dish soap before dunking in hi-test 40 volume peroxide.

[Toaster]

Started on the stealth assembly, I won’t apply any lube until I figure out if this thing is going to run or just hit the shelf. The gearbox was also missing some pieces around the slipper assembly so I am digging through bins of screws, washers etc

[Toaster]

Just a note for myself but the diff assembly is missing some pieces, thrust bearing and the correct torque control spring.

[Toaster]

Well this is as far as I can make it for the most part and now I start the process of securing missing parts but pretty pleased how it cleaned up. I think the front shock pistons are the wrong length but have some research to do.

[Frankentruck]

This one doesn't look like it's going to be an EGT beater. It looks pretty nice with all the bright clean nylon parts.

[romulus22]

I agree. Pretty nice truck to turn into a beater. Would be a shame to do all that cleaning on a white parts truck just to beat it up again.

[Bgisbad]

quick question on the peroxide bath. What is the ratio of water to 40 developer? Roughly how long do you let them sit? Thanks!

[Toaster]

quick question on the peroxide bath. What is the ratio of water to 40 developer? Roughly how long do you let them sit? Thanks!

Apologies for the delayed response sir, was away on a much needed vacation to the middle of the pacific No water, strictly used straight up peroxide in a clear container with sunlight….now I am not sure if that was the smartest or best route but it seemed to work well enough and didn’t seem to alter the plastic in any way (unlike bleach that seems to turn white bits hard and brittle, something I ‘tried’ years and years ago before learning about peroxide).

Not sure if this helps at all, but a game console restorer I found on YouTube actually not only submerged really yellow parts in peroxide but also instead of sunlight he used strings of UV LED lights around his clear container and the results were pretty spectacular. Hope this helps.

[Bgisbad]

I appreciate the response and hope the vacation was enjoyable. I've restored shoe soles in the past using the same technique except on the shoes you apply the product directly and then saran wrap them to keep it wet. You can sit them in the sun or UV lights to speed up the process. The concern I had was length of time and if it was harmful to the parts, Which I believe you addressed. As a test I broke down the 10T and soaked the parts for a week in a bath consisting of 1 tablespoon 40 developer to 4 cups hot water give or take. The parts did clean up well. With the 10T back together it was run in the backyard for a good hour with a couple bumps and hits so far so good.

For the 10 parts I added about a teaspoon more developer and they have been sitting for about a week. was going to take them out today rinse and see where they stand.

Again thank you for the response

[1911Colt]

You can sit them in the sun or UV lights to speed up the process.

My understanding is that the yellowing we see in old parts is actually the bromine (flame retardant) separating and rising to the service of the plastic or nylon. The UV effectively "vibrates" the molecules to allow the bromine and oxygen (from the peroxide) to remix as originally intended. At least that is how it works with ABS.

UV is present in sunlight, so the sun and the lamp are doing the same thing. Using a UV lamp is faster because of the concentration- sort of like a cigarette lighter vs a flame thrower

[Bgisbad]

You can sit them in the sun or UV lights to speed up the process.

My understanding is that the yellowing we see in old parts is actually the bromine (flame retardant) separating and rising to the service of the plastic or nylon. The UV effectively "vibrates" the molecules to allow the bromine and oxygen (from the peroxide) to remix as originally intended. At least that is how it works with ABS.

UV is present in sunlight, so the sun and the lamp are doing the same thing. Using a UV lamp is faster because of the concentration- sort of like a cigarette lighter vs a flame thrower

SCIENCE!

[Toaster]

Managed to score a small parts lot off the flea bay that was poorly listed/described that will help push this one another step forward.

[Toaster]

Making some small progress, realize that I am not doing this in any kind of order but as things come my way…servos mounted and CVD’s BUT I might take out the CVD’s to attempt a ‘blue’ gun black redo of the finish as there is some rust spots.