RC12e restore

RC10/12/100/200/250/300/500/Dual Sport
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SMOKE-DOG
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RC12e restore

Post by SMOKE-DOG »

Got this 12e today from a friend who found it on CL. I traded him for a paintjob. The plan is to clean it up, get a TBG body off the bay for it. It came with a Futaba receiver and white IC servos but he kept those. Tires are hard as a rock and depending if I can find pre-mounted and trued tires, it might become a runner with modern electronics. If I can't find any, it will collect dust on the shelf.

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SMOKE-DOG
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Re: RC12e restore

Post by SMOKE-DOG »

Started to tear it down and I see the batteries had exploded. Never seen nicads do this before.

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This thing is a rusty corroded mess.

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PlastiZapCA+
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Re: RC12e restore

Post by PlastiZapCA+ »

That car's in good condition for an RC12E. Most of the ones I find are total wrecks. I have a set of pre mounted wheels that will go on that car if you can't find any. Gomachv had a ton of them for sale a while back. You'll need to stay with two hole wheels unless you plan on changing out the rear axle and hubs. All the modern 1/12 cars are using three hole wheels and hubs.

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SMOKE-DOG
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Re: RC12e restore

Post by SMOKE-DOG »

Yeah, I'm gonna need the old 2 hole style wheel as I'm going to keep it all original. I did find 1 brand new front and rear wheel each in the box. Bout to order the body. Got a sweet livery in mind.

cashrc
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Re: RC12e restore

Post by cashrc »

I have an old 12E, and Parma panther, I intend to fix them both up in the near future. My 12E has a different front end on it though, and I can't tell you what parts they are..these used to belong to a friend of mine, and I'm pretty sure he cobbled the car up from available parts..
Here's pics.
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SMOKE-DOG
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Re: RC12e restore

Post by SMOKE-DOG »

Can't get the axle off for nothing. Everything is corroded together and the hub won't move. Any suggestions?

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GoMachV
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Re: RC12e restore

Post by GoMachV »

You might not like my answer, but if it's a solid axle no diff I would just dremel it in half and press out the hubs with a vice or press. Thr solid axles aren't hard to find in fact I'm sure I have one to donate. If it's the hollow axle or diff then of course it's worth saving.
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GoMachV
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Re: RC12e restore

Post by GoMachV »

cashrc wrote:I have an old 12E, and Parma panther, I intend to fix them both up in the near future. My 12E has a different front end on it though, and I can't tell you what parts they are..these used to belong to a friend of mine, and I'm pretty sure he cobbled the car up from available parts..
Here's pics.
Cashrc, your car is a clone of the 12e called a cx12. Look here...
http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=33&t=14461&p=419338&hilit=Tomopolus+cx12#p419338
It's time to stand up to the bully. Support the companies that support the industry, not the ones that tear it down. Say no to Traxxas
Factory Works website

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SMOKE-DOG
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Re: RC12e restore

Post by SMOKE-DOG »

gomachv wrote:You might not like my answer, but if it's a solid axle no diff I would just dremel it in half and press out the hubs with a vice or press. Thr solid axles aren't hard to find in fact I'm sure I have one to donate. If it's the hollow axle or diff then of course it's worth saving.
It's got a diff. I just hosed it down with WD40, gonna try and pull on it later. Thanks for the offer on the axle, I'll let you know what happens.

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Coelacanth
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Re: RC12e restore

Post by Coelacanth »

SMOKE-DOG wrote:
gomachv wrote:You might not like my answer, but if it's a solid axle no diff I would just dremel it in half and press out the hubs with a vice or press. Thr solid axles aren't hard to find in fact I'm sure I have one to donate. If it's the hollow axle or diff then of course it's worth saving.
It's got a diff. I just hosed it down with WD40, gonna try and pull on it later. Thanks for the offer on the axle, I'll let you know what happens.
I would try spraying everything liberally with PB Blaster, that's the best penetrating lubricant I've used. I sprayed it down all the spark plug holes of my Charger's motor before turning it over after it had sat for over 8 years without being run, and the next day it turned over fine and fired up once the gas was feeding into the carb. Anytime I have a bolt or nut that's seized and needs to be removed without shearing it off, I spray it with PB Blaster and let it sit 24 hours. It just might work, and won't harm anything.

Reviews say it all; this is local, Canadian Tire is a huge franchise in Canada, but you get the idea.

http://reviews.canadiantire.ca/9045/0381510P/no-pb-blaster-reviews/reviews.htm

You could also heat things up with a hair dryer or heat gun a bit, in conjunction with the PB Blaster; that'll also help.
Completed projects: CYANide Onroad Optima | Zebra Gold Optima | Barney Optima | OptiMutt RWD Mid
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bearrickster
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Re: RC12e restore

Post by bearrickster »

I use a vice and a brass hammer to drive out the one I had like that the brass wont hurt the axle
LOSI RULES!!

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cashrc
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Re: RC12e restore

Post by cashrc »

gomachv wrote:
cashrc wrote:I have an old 12E, and Parma panther, I intend to fix them both up in the near future. My 12E has a different front end on it though, and I can't tell you what parts they are..these used to belong to a friend of mine, and I'm pretty sure he cobbled the car up from available parts..
Here's pics.
Cashrc, your car is a clone of the 12e called a cx12. Look here...
http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=33&t=14461&p=419338&hilit=Tomopolus+cx12#p419338
Thanks for the info, I appreciate it...that answers a few questions I had.

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jwscab
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Re: RC12e restore

Post by jwscab »

Kroil if you can find it or a blend of automatic trans fluid and kerosene will loosen pretty much anything. So tapping wiggling, general manipulation will help break up the oxidation.

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Re: RC12e restore

Post by SMOKE-DOG »

Still working on it. I've been prying, tapping, twisting and rigging up all types of stuff to try and get this hub off. The washers and bearing are all frozen to the axle too. The dremel might be coming out soon, I've got another hub. I just want to save the axle.

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Re: RC12e restore

Post by SMOKE-DOG »

So after I put the axle in a tub of WD40 and forgetting about it for a WHOLE MONTH, I finally got the hub to move with a little prying. I ruined the shims, scratched up the hub and the bearing is still stuck to the axle. Anyone know the part # for the shims and the bearing size on the rear axle?

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