*Parts needed to run modern 2.2 rims/tires on your rc10*

General info, Q&A.

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stickboy007
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Re: *Parts needed to run modern 2.2 rims/tires on your rc10*

Post by stickboy007 »

Short wheelbase, but I don't see how that would change anything in terms of moving the dogbone further inward or outward.

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Re: *Parts needed to run modern 2.2 rims/tires on your rc10*

Post by chophead69 »

I am pretty sure I got b44 cva's but I will pull the ones outta my w.o.I.n. car to be sure.also I will check the bearing.and right now long wheel base.
My pop always said i had to many iron's in the fire

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Re: *Parts needed to run modern 2.2 rims/tires on your rc10*

Post by foots »

stickboy007 wrote:Short wheelbase, but I don't see how that would change anything in terms of moving the dogbone further inward or outward.
Just wondering. Mine only binds on the left side with the stealth diff nut. Right side is fine. This is on a worlds edition with factory shocks. Just can't seem to figure it out.

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Re: *Parts needed to run modern 2.2 rims/tires on your rc10*

Post by jwscab »

short vs long wheelbase will change the angle of dogbone and could definitely change a binding situation. whichever position gives the dogbone the greater angle will give you more 'room' so to speak.

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Re: *Parts needed to run modern 2.2 rims/tires on your rc10*

Post by scr8p »

Arm mount toe can cause issues as well. 3's may work, 1.5's may not.

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Re: *Parts needed to run modern 2.2 rims/tires on your rc10*

Post by stickboy007 »

I looked at the mounting holes for long and short wheelbase. The change in dogbone angle is slight, and this is will not impact the dogbone plunge, or at last not considerably.

@ foots, you may want to check to make sure your diff is either tightened down correctly (fully tightened minus 1/8 turn) and/or that you have the correct diff nut in there. Some of the diff nuts are longer (like ASC2330), and this can lead to the problem you're having. The diff nut should be part number ASC6575, which is also for the modern B4 series.

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Re: *Parts needed to run modern 2.2 rims/tires on your rc10*

Post by foots »

stickboy007 wrote:ISome of the diff nuts are longer (like ASC2330), and this can lead to the problem you're having. The diff nut should be part number ASC6575, which is also for the modern B4 series.

Ding Ding Ding this might be a winner. I will check that out for sure. I know something wasn't right as too many members said that combo worked. Just not for me. I knew the nut was the problem but didn't know how to solve it other than cutting off the ears and that was no option.

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Re: *Parts needed to run modern 2.2 rims/tires on your rc10*

Post by scr8p »

foots wrote:I knew the nut was the problem but didn't know how to solve it other than cutting off the ears and that was no option.
that to me says that the diff nut is as far down in the outdrive as it's gonna go. which means, you have the correct diff nut.

do you have the plastic piece in the right outdrive with the ears? if not, it could be why one side binds and the other side doesn't.

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Re: *Parts needed to run modern 2.2 rims/tires on your rc10*

Post by Bottom Feeder »

I know this thread is mainly about rear wheels but I have a question about the fronts.

Since there is nothing special about the steering blocks or bearings that come in Associated's 6801 kit, the wide-track axles are needed simply due to modern wheels' deeper offset and keep the front-end geometry the same, NOT to widen the Classic's narrow front end, correct?

Image

Just checkin'. Thanks.

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Re: *Parts needed to run modern 2.2 rims/tires on your rc10*

Post by Orange »

Bottom Feeder wrote:I know this thread is mainly about rear wheels but I have a question about the fronts.

Since there is nothing special about the steering blocks or bearings that come in Associated's 6801 kit, the wide-track axles are needed simply due to modern wheels' deeper offset and keep the front-end geometry the same, NOT to widen the Classic's narrow front end, correct?

Image

Just checkin'. Thanks.
Yes. :mrgreen:
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Re: *Parts needed to run modern 2.2 rims/tires on your rc10*

Post by Bottom Feeder »

Thanks! Glad I wasn't holding my breath for a reply. ;)

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Re: *Parts needed to run modern 2.2 rims/tires on your rc10*

Post by JK Racing »

Another way of mounting B4 front wheels to your RC10...WITHOUT GT axles...

Photos courtesy of Michael of Revolution Designs:


B4 rear "crush" spacer, original jelly bean wheel bearing and original B4 bearing.
Image

They will look like this (but install in the wheels first!!)
Image

Result:
Image

I will be testing this next time at the track.
--Joey --
Vintage A&L and Factory Works
Old School Racer & Vintage RC Car nut
JKRacingRC.com

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Re: *Parts needed to run modern 2.2 rims/tires on your rc10*

Post by CoalTrain »

JK Racing wrote:Another way of mounting B4 front wheels to your RC10...WITHOUT GT axles...

Photos courtesy of Michael of Revolution Designs:


B4 rear "crush" spacer, original jelly bean wheel bearing and original B4 bearing.
Image

They will look like this (but install in the wheels first!!)
Image

Result:
Image

I will be testing this next time at the track.
Why is the flanged bearing needed and how does it fit?

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Re: *Parts needed to run modern 2.2 rims/tires on your rc10*

Post by JK Racing »

The smaller, flanged bearing actually sits deeper inside the stock wheel space and allows for the wheel nut to be used, the negative offset is overcome by the crush tube in the back of both bearings, to give the wheel the proper offset needed for good/stable track width.
--Joey --
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JKRacingRC.com

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Re: *Parts needed to run modern 2.2 rims/tires on your rc10*

Post by JK Racing »

My comparisons of the above:

B4 wheel, using the different bearings:

Image
Image

Duratrax wheel, using standard bearings:

Image
Image

I did notice that Proline B4 wheels are nice and snug with the flanged bearing, stock B4 wheels, not so much, the inner area where the bearing would sit is a touch larger, not that snug of a fit for the bearing.
--Joey --
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JKRacingRC.com

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