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Ive just bought an old gold rc10 from ebay, cant wait to give this a try. Thanks for all the info.

Welcome to the forum buddy

Nick

I got my first batch of parts together to try. I've got plenty more after this if it goes well. Lets hope I don't screw up a bunch of nylon SRB parts!

And any idea if it will work the same on the Team Losi wheels?? I'm not sure how this works on the different types of plastics..



I might have to soak that frog/MB chassis brace forever. It is SO yellowed..
That part, BTW, is from the MB/frog with the TrackMaster trans I got from OrangeMazda! I'll be digging further into that car soon.

Don't know if its been said but I'd keep any rc12/rc10 servo savers out of there....had a few bad experiences that left them chalky and furry

I cannot wait to try this out. Maybe I can try to use one of these UV lamps, check out the wattage. Do you guys think one of these would be over kill:





If the HP boils does it work faster LOL

yeah like was said earlier the parts are ultra white, not what i remember putting together 20+ years ago, one of the most memorable "models" i built.. was looking though my race box and found front steering blocks NIP and not seen the light of day for at least that long.
But it sure makes me want to tear it down for a refresh

All these parts look great!
I thought my 10T was pretty yellowed when I first got it, but looking at it now, after seeing some of you guys' yellow parts, it really isn't that bad.

So it works on Associated... I wonder if it will work on Nintendo?

I don't think I really want to try though, maybe on one of my controllers first, I've got quite a few of those.

UserUnrelated wrote:All these parts look great!
I thought my 10T was pretty yellowed when I first got it, but looking at it now, after seeing some of you guys' yellow parts, it really isn't that bad.

So it works on Associated... I wonder if it will work on Nintendo?

I don't think I really want to try though, maybe on one of my controllers first, I've got quite a few of those.

This process originated from restoring vintage computers and console, just like your NES kit: http://retr0bright.wikispaces.com/

The RC world just borrowed the idea

fakiee wrote:

UserUnrelated wrote:All these parts look great!
I thought my 10T was pretty yellowed when I first got it, but looking at it now, after seeing some of you guys' yellow parts, it really isn't that bad.

So it works on Associated... I wonder if it will work on Nintendo?
*pic*
I don't think I really want to try though, maybe on one of my controllers first, I've got quite a few of those.

This process originated from restoring vintage computers and console, just like your NES kit: http://retr0bright.wikispaces.com/

The RC world just borrowed the idea

Weekend project here I come!
Thanks man. I had done HOURS of research trying to figure out how to reverse the discoloration, and didn't come up with anything!
I guess it was because I was searching with only Nintendo consoles in mind, not old computers or anything.
Thanks for the link!

fakiee wrote:

UserUnrelated wrote:All these parts look great!
I thought my 10T was pretty yellowed when I first got it, but looking at it now, after seeing some of you guys' yellow parts, it really isn't that bad.

So it works on Associated... I wonder if it will work on Nintendo?

I don't think I really want to try though, maybe on one of my controllers first, I've got quite a few of those.

This process originated from restoring vintage computers and console, just like your NES kit: http://retr0bright.wikispaces.com/

The RC world just borrowed the idea

What's cool about anything regarding vintage restorations is that the techniques are shared across many "genres". I've used techniques to rub out & polish an automotive clearcoat finish, from a vintage car forum, to rub out scuff marks & tom drum rash from the top of my bass drum. I also bought some 80's Ludwig smoke acrylic concert toms that I used the same technique to polish them up to better-than-new glossy finish and flipped them for a couple hundred dollar profit. The same technique helps polish aluminum RC car wheels & even Lexan bodies. Tricks to remove rust from chrome that I learned from a vintage bike forum, I've used to remove rust from a vintage chrome snare drum from the 80's.

So many cool tips 'n' tricks and valuable information can be learned from any vintage enthusiast forum.

Those of you using UV light set-ups, Possible to get a pic of what light you are using, or your set up. What bulbs exactly that you have used seam to work the best?

Thanks,

After a hydro bath, I let parts air dry. I then boil the parts for 10-15 min. after I place them in a big bucket of ice water for about a week, Changing the water twice a day. IS that a safe amount of time for it not to damage any aluminum finishes.

sounds like it would be to me. after a week soak with water changes I would think the H2O2 solution would be pretty much negligible.

marlo wrote:After a hydro bath, I let parts air dry. I then boil the parts for 10-15 min. after I place them in a big bucket of ice water for about a week, Changing the water twice a day. IS that a safe amount of time for it not to damage any aluminum finishes.

I need some help, after all I did to wash the parts, I was still wondering if any aluminum damage had been done, ( just my nature) so I took the rear bulk head off a build I finished about a week ago, and there it was. On the bottom of an rc10 rear bulk head there are 4 hole's, two to mount to the chassis, and two are there for whatever reason. The two that do nothing had left discolored perfectly shaped circle's, faint but still there. You don't see them with the bulk head in place, but the damage only took a week or so. Will the damage continue or is that about it? I'm not sure then how to properly remove the hydrogen peroxide form the parts, If I don't see the damage that's fine, I'm just worried that it will continue to worsen if nothing is done. Help.

I'll have to check my buggy that I did a couple of weeks ago, the one with the cracked rear bulkhead battery housing, which I bought a replacement from you

I'm not a fan of the whole ice water thing, firstly it shocks the parts and I worry about more damage being done that way from rapid contraction. Secondly (cooling) closes the pores of the nylon which helps to retain hydrogen peroxide, if anything warm water would be better to keep the pores open and help flush the peroxide out. I doubt peroxide would damage the alloy, just discolor it and the anodizing.

I'll check mine tomorrow and report back, All I did was boil the parts for 10 mins, changed the water with boiling water from the kettle, and let the pot naturally cool on it's own before rinsing and scrubbing them in warm water and a mild detergent.