Going brushless - what else do I need?

[n20capri]

Just placed my order:

XERUN SCT PRO Sensored ESC:
http://www.hobbypartz.com/07e-xerun-sct-pro-v1-blue.html

Program card:
http://www.hobbypartz.com/07e-hobbywing-led-programcard.html

XERUN 8.5T Sensored Motor:
http://www.hobbypartz.com/07e-c-sd-8-5t-3650-blue.html

Just wondering what else I'll need - mainly regarding wiring or connectors??? I currently run deans for everything but not sure how things will come...The pic of the esc shows wiring but no connectors and the motor looks bare but appears to have some sort of weird looking connector...

Any help is appreciated.
(also comments on combo are welcomed )

Thanks!

[kaiser]

you'll need deans for the power wires on the esc.

what are you using this setup for?
are you using lipo's?

[n20capri]

you'll need deans for the power wires on the esc.

what are you using this setup for?
are you using lipo's?

Cool I have those! Thanks.

I'll initially test it in my RC10 but will probably permanently put it in my Lazer ZX - there is a local track that's got an indoor "off-road" track that I'd like to try out...but we'll see.

Right now just some NiMH's I have. Scared of Lipo's! Charge in a bag, don't fully charge and store, don't discharge too much yada yada yada! I'm sure eventually I'll make the switch but for now I'll stick with what I have - will be a nice comparison to see the performance difference of just brushed vs/ brushless.

[Coelacanth]

Connections between motor and ESC are usually bullet connectors. The easiest explanation is because you often need to switch one of the wires if your motor runs in reverse direction. I use either 3.5mm or 4mm gold-plated bullets for my ESC-to-motor connections. Your Deans connectors should be fine between battery & ESC.

[alien3t]

its sensored. so plug colered wire to color plug on motor. wont run backwards.

[Coelacanth]

Regardless, bullet connectors make the most sense between motor & ESC.

[dldiaz]

First, the "weird looking connector" is the sensor wire, it just plugs into the motor and the ESC,
no soldering required.

Second, I have a couple HobbyWing motors with similar power connectors and it took me a while to figure out the following :

You can solder wires with male bullet connectors onto the motor posts as it sits:
(I used Novak brand, 3.5mm connectors):

Or, if your ESC wires are long enough, you can remove those posts to reveal the 3.5mm male bullet connectors right on the motor!!!
This way, you only need to solder female connectors to the ESC and plug them directly into the motor:

Brushless is a huge improvement over brushed, you will be happy!
LiPo batteries (for me at least), are actually LESS complicated to deal with than Nickel-based batteries - you can charge them days to weeks ahead of time with no loss of power, you don't have to discharge them after every use, they don't get hot, etc., etc.
((I personally don't even use a bag to charge.))

[alien3t]

Regardless, bullet connectors make the most sense between motor & ESC.

agreed

[n20capri]

Actually I know about the sensor wire connector...I was referring to the 3 power wire connectors to the motor...makes sense now that I see the pics you posted...great help thanks! Guess I'll wait to see exactly what I get before I decide what I need! haha

First, the "weird looking connector" is the sensor wire, it just plugs into the motor and the ESC,
no soldering required.

Second, I have a couple HobbyWing motors with similar power connectors and it took me a while to figure out the following :

You can solder wires with male bullet connectors onto the motor posts as it sits:
(I used Novak brand, 3.5mm connectors):

HobbyWing EZ-Run 5.5T motor 1_small.JPG

Or, if your ESC wires are long enough, you can remove those posts to reveal the 3.5mm male bullet connectors right on the motor!!!
This way, you only need to solder female connectors to the ESC and plug them directly into the motor:

HobbyWing EZ-Run 5.5T motor 4_small.JPG

Brushless is a huge improvement over brushed, you will be happy!
LiPo batteries (for me at least), are actually LESS complicated to deal with than Nickel-based batteries - you can charge them days to weeks ahead of time with no loss of power, you don't have to discharge them after every use, they don't get hot, etc., etc.
((I personally don't even use a bag to charge.))

[n20capri]

Just other random questions (looking at the esc manual) (http://ibuyrc.com/manual/07E-XERUN-SCT.pdf)

-It's showing a default timing value of 15°...I'd assume 0° - Is 15° normal?
-Neutral range is 9% - with only a min of 6%...I'm used to any touch of the throttle now the car will move...is 9% going to throw me off? Or will I not even notice it? (not that I putz around that slow normally just saying! lol)
-Braking...now I'm used to just throwing the brake and I get what I get...it's fine for me...default brake setting for new esc are below - any suggestions or tips on these #'s to get me where I'm used to?
-drag brake force - 0%
-Max brake force - 50%
-Initial brake force = drag brake force
-Lipo cells is set to auto calculate but they recommend manually setting it...since I'm not yet running Lipo I'll assume I'll have to leave it at auto since there is no other setting???
-Low-voltage cut-off - I'll need to disable this when not running Lipo correct?

Much appreciated...like to be full prepared when I get things so I can setup and go. Tracking says Wed delivery! woot!

[Coelacanth]

You might want to read up on what those definitions mean, but here's what I've learned, having gone through that same process you're going through now.

-Drag brake: The amount of braking that is applied just by releasing your throttle to neutral. 0 drag brake = the car rolls with no resistance from the motor, or more or less how it would roll if you pushed the car with the electronics turned off. If you want your car to coast as much as possible when you let go of the throttle, you want 0 drag brake. Increasing drag brake causes the motor to actually resist the forward motion, to slow it down quicker. Drag brake differs from actual braking because you're not actually pressing your throttle trigger in reverse. I personally like zero drag brake, I want the car to coast when I release the throttle; I don't want it to actively decelerate.

-Braking: Now you know this is the amount of brake force you get when you press reverse on your transmitter. Adjust to your tastes. Do you want your car to smoothly slow down, or lock up the wheels to do slides & spin-outs more easily?

-Low voltage cut-off: Yes, you should disable this when connecting a NiMH battery...or your car might not even work properly. As this is usually the default setting, when I connected my NiMH battery to my ESC when it wasn't fully charged, the car didn't work at all.

Hope this helps!

[n20capri]

Very helpful thanks!

[n20capri]

Boy do I hate when FedEx delivers a day earlier than originally expected!!!

Ummmmm yeah. Addicted. Driving in the dark - had to restrain myself and keep it a short session. I can't even imagine a 3s...

[n20capri]

First, the "weird looking connector" is the sensor wire, it just plugs into the motor and the ESC,
no soldering required.

Second, I have a couple HobbyWing motors with similar power connectors and it took me a while to figure out the following :

You can solder wires with male bullet connectors onto the motor posts as it sits:
(I used Novak brand, 3.5mm connectors):

HobbyWing EZ-Run 5.5T motor 1_small.JPG

Or, if your ESC wires are long enough, you can remove those posts to reveal the 3.5mm male bullet connectors right on the motor!!!
This way, you only need to solder female connectors to the ESC and plug them directly into the motor:

HobbyWing EZ-Run 5.5T motor 4_small.JPG

Brushless is a huge improvement over brushed, you will be happy!
LiPo batteries (for me at least), are actually LESS complicated to deal with than Nickel-based batteries - you can charge them days to weeks ahead of time with no loss of power, you don't have to discharge them after every use, they don't get hot, etc., etc.
((I personally don't even use a bag to charge.))

Ok so my EZ run motor was exactly like the pic you posted...I simply solidered the ESC wires to the connectors already attached to the motor...but I got a new motor...


I found some male/female 3.5 bullets but trying to figure out how to soldier them to the motor so swapping motors from car to car will be easy...am I looking at the wrong connector for the motor?

http://www.amazon.com/Gold-Plated-3-5mm-Bullet-Connectors/dp/B005D5MT7O/

[variant45]

I'm following this thread with interest as I am a dinosaur and this brushless/lipo stuff is all brand new to me.

Scott