My RC10 World's Re-Re Pre-Build Q's

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Re: My RC10 World's Re-Re Pre-Build Q's

Post by howaboutme »

I was going to attempt to run the car for the first time today. This being my 2nd attempt. But like the first attempt, I was stopped before I even got a chance to turn on the ESC. Both times, my amateurish soldering job did me in and my connection at the bullet came off. I just can't seem to get a good solder joint at the head of the 5mm bullets. They are a huge weak spot.

Any advice?

:cry:
- Jack

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Re: My RC10 World's Re-Re Pre-Build Q's

Post by joey_zrl »

What is the wattage rating of your soldering iron? I know on larger gauge wires, you need at least a 60W iron and use a large tip on the iron. Larger gauge wires require more instant heat. Anything under 60W will give you fits.

Also, remember to use a damp coral sponge to keep your soldering tip clean. That alone does wonders.

Tin both connections well before the final solder connection, hold them together, and apply the heat. As soon as you see the solder joints melt together, remove the heat and hold your connections in place until the solder hardens.

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Re: My RC10 World's Re-Re Pre-Build Q's

Post by howaboutme »

joey_zrl wrote: Sun Mar 05, 2017 3:52 pm What is the wattage rating of your soldering iron? I know on larger gauge wires, you need at least a 60W iron and use a large tip on the iron. Larger gauge wires require more instant heat. Anything under 60W will give you fits.

Also, remember to use a damp coral sponge to keep your soldering tip clean. That alone does wonders.

Tin both connections well before the final solder connection, hold them together, and apply the heat. As soon as you see the solder joints melt together, remove the heat and hold your connections in place until the solder hardens.
I have a 75W iron that I am setting temps around 650F. Is this too low? I do tin both but I think it's my technique of putting them together. I am having to hold the iron there for a long few seconds (long enough for the first inch or two of the wire to get hot to get the tinned solder to melt. I just don't get a good connection. I'm using a chisel tip and do make sure the tip is clean. I'll continue to work on it. I have a bunch of bullets to play with because I haven't quite gotten used to using the desolder braid to get rid of old solder....So much to figure out. I'll try again.

Thanks!
- Jack

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Re: My RC10 World's Re-Re Pre-Build Q's

Post by RC10th »

Make sure the wire is tinned the whole way around and not just one spot. Is the solder flowing into the plug and wire or just sitting on top? Is it shiny or dull when it cools?

You don't need braid to desolder bullets, braid is usually only used if you want to remove solder from circuit boards etc.
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Re: My RC10 World's Re-Re Pre-Build Q's

Post by howaboutme »

RC10th wrote: Sun Mar 05, 2017 5:14 pm Make sure the wire is tinned the whole way around and not just one spot. Is the solder flowing into the plug and wire or just sitting on top? Is it shiny or dull when it cools?

You don't need braid to desolder bullets, braid is usually only used if you want to remove solder from circuit boards etc.
I'll make sure I tin all the way around the wire. I can't confidently say I've done that. Thank you. As for the bullets, these are what I am using:

https://www.amainhobbies.com/maclan-max-current-5mm-gold-bullet-connectors-10-mcl4042/p506568

I am tinning the head (the receiving part of the head) with some solder. Then I place the wire on top of the cooled off solder on the head and put the iron on top of it all (though I think I've put the iron on the side of the connection instead of the top of the wire). When I do this, the entire area takes too long (in my opinion) to flow again.

I think what's supposed to happen is when the solder melts, the wire pushes down into the melted iron and then I lift the iron away. Then it cools and the wire gets set inside all of the solder.

The braid was being used to try and salvage the bullets by removing the solder to get a "clean" start.....
- Jack

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Re: My RC10 World's Re-Re Pre-Build Q's

Post by jwscab »

If the iron can go higher, got to 725 or 750. You want a really hot iron so you heat a localized spot quickly. Also as mentioned clean the tip with a damp sponge.

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Re: My RC10 World's Re-Re Pre-Build Q's

Post by howaboutme »

Alright guys. First, thanks for your little tid bits. I re-soldered the 1 bullet tonight. There were some solder left over on the bullet but I felt it was not enough so I added a bit more. Then I made sure I tinned all the way around the wire (which still had solder leftover). One thing that I also did that I have not done so far is to "wet" the tip. I also upped the temp to about 750. Even though this was only 1 connection, I felt all of it made this a bit easier. Once I placed the solder on top of the connection, the solder melted very quickly, I pressed the wire down further then let go. Subsequently, I did "clean up" a bit by running some solder around the edges to complete the connection. We'll see how it goes:

Image

Image

Image

Not pretty, I know. I'll work on that later. I also want to get thicker heatshrink that will fit over the bullet head. Will take a trip to Harbor Freight this weekend...

Thanks.
- Jack

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Re: My RC10 World's Re-Re Pre-Build Q's

Post by RC10th »

That solder joint looks a bit cold to me as the solder has not flowed and looks a bit like butter spread around. There is also too much solder applied in my opinion.

Unsolder them, cut the gluggy bit of wire off and try again with clean wire, the joint should look liquid and shiny.
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Re: My RC10 World's Re-Re Pre-Build Q's

Post by howaboutme »

RC10th wrote: Mon Mar 06, 2017 9:31 pm That solder joint looks a bit cold to me as the solder has not flowed and looks a bit like butter spread around. There is also too much solder applied in my opinion.

Unsolder them, cut the gluggy bit of wire off and try again with clean wire, the joint should look liquid and shiny.
Ok. I think I understand. Your description is super helpful. What do I do w/ the rest of the solder on the bullet? Should I start new w/ a fresh bullet in this case or re-use existing bullet w/ whatever solder is on there? Probably fresh since there may be too much solder?
- Jack

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Re: My RC10 World's Re-Re Pre-Build Q's

Post by Tamlok »

This is very handy for removing solder. Squeeze the bulb, hold, melt solder, release the bulb and suck it up.

https://www.radioshack.com/products/desoldering-bulb

Also, are you using flux? I did not see that mentioned previously.

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Re: My RC10 World's Re-Re Pre-Build Q's

Post by howaboutme »

RC10th wrote: Mon Mar 06, 2017 9:31 pm That solder joint looks a bit cold to me as the solder has not flowed and looks a bit like butter spread around. There is also too much solder applied in my opinion.

Unsolder them, cut the gluggy bit of wire off and try again with clean wire, the joint should look liquid and shiny.
Question related to how it looks...How do you get the solder to flow the way you've described? Is it a matter of temperature and amount of time iron is applied? Did I not leave it on the connection long enough for it to completely melt and flow?

Thanks.
- Jack

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Re: My RC10 World's Re-Re Pre-Build Q's

Post by howaboutme »

Tamlok wrote: Mon Mar 06, 2017 11:20 pm This is very handy for removing solder. Squeeze the bulb, hold, melt solder, release the bulb and suck it up.

https://www.radioshack.com/products/desoldering-bulb

Also, are you using flux? I did not see that mentioned previously.
Thanks! I've seen something similar with the suction action. I'll give it a shot.

No flux. I have read about it. Some people use it, a lot do not so I guess (with no good reason) I chose to eliminate it to keep it simple. My understanding is that flux helps with the flow and therefore the adhesion? Do you apply it on the tip or the connection prior to tinning?
- Jack

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Re: My RC10 World's Re-Re Pre-Build Q's

Post by RC10th »

I would use the same bullet but remove as much solder as you can. Unsolder and remove wire from bullet plug, remelt solder on bullet plug and wipe off with damp cloth. If you use the same solder that's on the plug again and again you end up burning off all the flux and no matter what will be a poor joint.

As stated earlier heat is your friend, for large wires you want as much heat as you can, but not so hot that the flux vaporizes off the tip straight away. The parts being soldered have to be about the same temperature as the iron, hence the high and quick heat application. Anything that takes longer then about 5 seconds to solder is too long, either the iron is too cold or the tip isn't transferring enough heat.

When the iron is up to temp wipe the tip clean and tin it with some fresh solder, watch how it flows onto the tip, this is what you want it to do on the wires and plugs.

While the tip is freshly tinned bring the iron to the bullet plug and feed fresh solder into the spot where the tip and plug touch. Continue feeding solder untill there is a nice pool of solder and pull away.

Tin the wire the same way as the plug, the wire will suck up more solder then the bullet, so keep feeding fresh solder till the wire is "full" and tinned equally around the whole diameter of the wire.

Bring the wire to the bullet and without using more solder use the iorn (tip still tinned though) to join the two together untill the whole joint flows together. The ideal amount of solder is a nice flow between parts where you can still see the wire strands.

I couldn't find many pictures of good solder joints of wire and bullet plugs but these are examples of what a perfect joint looks like (taken from google)
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Re: My RC10 World's Re-Re Pre-Build Q's

Post by RC10th »

Regarding flux 60/40 rosin core solder is all you need, nothing more.
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Re: My RC10 World's Re-Re Pre-Build Q's

Post by howaboutme »

Thank you so much!

I've seen plenty of videos but those videos all makes it look so easy and I know a lot of it is feel and look, which is hard to understand initially.

I don't have time tonight to re-do but will try tomorrow.

I am using 60/40 so sounds like I'm good there. Also, in one of your last points about keeping the tip tinned just before re-heating both bullet and wire, are you adding just a tad bit of solder to do this? I know you said don't add more then what is on the bullet and wire already but I assume I can add a bit just to keep the tip tinned?

Much thanks and appreciate it.
- Jack

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