NIX91 Questions and Answers

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Welshy40
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Re: NIX91 Questions and Answers

Post by Welshy40 »

Same here, ive been dribbling with excitement since this began as i always wamted one since I saw the magazine article just after the worlds.

I know the rear tyres are TR32 and have a pair already but what were the front tyres?
Designer of the Lazer ZX / ZXR Tub Chassis (now available again from Fibre-Lyte)

Sponser links below
http://www.fibre-lyte.co.uk/
http://www.kamtec.co.uk/

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Jirka
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Re: NIX91 Questions and Answers

Post by Jirka »

Fronts are TF330

Jirka

Mark Westerfield
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Re: NIX91 Questions and Answers

Post by Mark Westerfield »

Niki wrote:New stronger rear arm mounts are ready for racers and runners. Also smooths out stress in mounting holes.

-Niki-
Looks good

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vintage AE
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Re: NIX91 Questions and Answers

Post by vintage AE »

Hey Niki, are these going to make it back into production, NIX91-Race Steering SLS (inc.parts -023,-024,-025,-026)

If not, what would you recommend for racing? Probably just the non racing set?

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Niki
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Re: NIX91 Questions and Answers

Post by Niki »

Hey,
It should be available. I can see it under NIX91 section...?
Success rate is 100% so there shouldn't be any problems.
This is the direct link:
http://shpws.me/CpHF

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vintage AE
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Re: NIX91 Questions and Answers

Post by vintage AE »

Oh shiz, sorry Niki, my bad, for some reason I thought there was a racing set of knuckles and steering arms :oops:

Thanks!

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limestang
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Re: NIX91 Questions and Answers

Post by limestang »

jwscab wrote:Yeah copper plating is pretty common. Caswell has a pretty cheap brush on plating kit that might be a perfect dip for springs.

I went ahead and tried copper plating using the "Root Kill" chemical. First attempt led to a thick coating, but it came off as soon as I rinsed the springs. I will try again with the following adjustments:

1) Thoroughly Clean Springs
2) Strip factory spring coating with Muradic Acid
3) Experiment with alternates to the "Root Kill" (Vinegar, Muradic Acid)
4) Experiment with a higher voltage. First attempt used 3VDC.

I will post if successful. Has anyone tried the Caswell coating?

Thanks LImestang

Proc1973
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Re: NIX91 Questions and Answers

Post by Proc1973 »

Just started my build today with a dry run. What a great looking machine, well done guys, I can't wait to race it.

my only question about the build was that I couldn't see the difference in the rear inner hinge pins needed. I've got a pair from an rc10 worlds re release and a pair from a 10t, and I honestly can't see the difference in length. I've tried both on the right side, and still can't see the difference, because they both look tight to the gear plate. I then went for a dig around through the different builds to see what the right hand side inner hinge pin looks like fitted, and how tight it was to the gear plate, but I couldn't find one.

I'm worried I'm building it wrong, so any help, guidance and pictures much appreciated.

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Niki
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Re: NIX91 Questions and Answers

Post by Niki »

I've used #7356 both sides. Build is right when hinge pin end is really close to motor plate. You can grind rear arm slightly or try to loose transmission to motorplate screws to get that tiny move to motorplate allowing hinge pin end to fit.

Enjoy your build :)

-Niki-

Welshy40
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Re: NIX91 Questions and Answers

Post by Welshy40 »

Ok almost done and will be an exact replica as well including screws. Ive aquired a mike reedy mr motor which makes this car unique as well a Kevin Moore ko1001 so kinda cool as he made the A final as well plus a national winning esc but am searching for the heatsinks and original switch. Also what servo horn did Masami use plus wing? Also i know stickers arent being made but did anyond take pictures of them before stickibg on as i know someone who can do these for a really good price, in fact i gave hiim an original kyosho zxs evo stickers by a picture and replicated from that and identical to original.
Designer of the Lazer ZX / ZXR Tub Chassis (now available again from Fibre-Lyte)

Sponser links below
http://www.fibre-lyte.co.uk/
http://www.kamtec.co.uk/

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vintage AE
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Re: NIX91 Questions and Answers

Post by vintage AE »

Do you need a crush tube for these?
NIX63651
Rear hub for RC10 and NIX91.
Uses bearing pack ASC7935+ASC7933+ASC6906.
http://shpws.me/wIcB

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Re: NIX91 Questions and Answers

Post by Mark Westerfield »

vintage AE wrote:Do you need a crush tube for these?
NIX63651
Rear hub for RC10 and NIX91.
Uses bearing pack ASC7935+ASC7933+ASC6906.
http://shpws.me/wIcB
Yes.

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vintage AE
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Re: NIX91 Questions and Answers

Post by vintage AE »

I meant to ask which ones. I tried to fit the same sized bearing on the inside and it didn't go in far enough. I had a B4 crush tube in there, but swapped it out for a gt (shorter) one and used a smaller outer diameter bearing which sat deeper inside. This setup works and also allows room for the cvd to clear the arm.

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Re: NIX91 Questions and Answers

Post by Mark Westerfield »

Inside bearing #3977
Crush tube #7933
Outside bearing #7935
Two #7368 shims on the inside
Axle spacer #9608 on the outside
Wheel #6805

I use Custom works #7210 CVD kit

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Niki
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Re: NIX91 Questions and Answers

Post by Niki »

2.125" TQ style front wheels. Similar to #6852. Uses #6902 3/16 x 5/16 flanged ball bearing.
I think these are perfect match for a replica.

http://shpws.me/GCDO

6852_front_TQ_wheels.jpg

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