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Here are some group pics of my as yet unbuilt losi chassis plates.

From left to right: lighter jrx-2 with gray core, darker jrx2 with bright white core, Sassy aluminum JRX-2, and a white core JRX-T Sassy,JrxT, White prototype Juinior-2, Late Junior-2 and Late pro-se/lxt slimline The late molded chassis have recesses in the rear to accommodate the xx-retro trans, as well as some other minor differences

The aluminum sassy chassis is 1/4" longer than the standard jrx-2 plate, and has a slightly steeper kick up angle
this pic is of the sassy sandwiched between a 20deg jrx2 and 30 degree jrx-t

great post anthony never seen a jrx2 white core

Great collection of chassis Anthony. it's nice to see I am not alone in being a little Losi Obessed!! only difference is you have my Proto type's little brother.

I can help with the prototype problem....both of you send them to me

Don't hog the Losi obsession, share it...

I see none of your chassis have the cut-out for the servo-saver?


Is there a partnr difference for the JRX-T chassis with/without cut-out?

I have 2 chassis at home; one of which the cutout was done professionally (I guess by Losi themselves) and the second was just a recess badly-done with a dremel (clearly by the owner.

Mr ED, I believe it was a running change.

JK Racing wrote:Mr ED, I believe it was a running change.

As Joey said, I think in Anthony's original Losi Part variations thread it was discussed as a change from the old style (super flimsy) integrated servo saver bellcrank to the later solid bellcrank, needing a relief for the needed servo mounted servo saver. The one exception I have seen is the later Jrx/2 white core matte/matte chassis still had no servo relief but all the others such as the Jrx/T with the white core (fiberglass) have that relief

some more details on the sassy chassis as I progress in building it up:
The steering bellcrank mount holes are actually drilled for the larger 8-32 size chassis screws instead of the stock losi 4-40.
This presents a problem building it up with stock hardware as the tapered shank of the flat-head protrudes through the chassis and contacts the standoff before it is tight.
to remedy this I used a 3/16 drill bit to put a small recess on the underside of the steering post to clear the base of the screw head. tightens down perfectly now.

The other issue is that the inner hole is a little too narrow compared to stock, and the outer hole way too wide, so the steering bellcranks are never quite parallel.
this will likely not be a problem with performance since I don't see this ever leaving the shelf.

hey Anthony,

Sassy has their own bell bell cranks...so that's probably why things aren't lining up or holes are too large.

I've also run across issues when using a 4-40 screw in place of a 3/8 screw. I place a flat washer between the screw head (4-40) and the counter sunk chassis hole. I then place a 4-40 nut on the other side and begin tightening. This compreses the flat washer and it becomes concave. The washer is big/thick enough to fill in the space so that the tapered part of the screw doesn't pass the plane of the chassis.

what is the sassy chassis made of?

they are aluminum, probably 6061-T6

Looking forward to seeing this build. I have yet to see a jrx2 sassy chassis complete.
Recently, there was a seller on ebay that sold 5 or 6 jrx2 sassy chassis nos.

I have one now.

Was there ever a white prototype top plate produced? Or any other white parts?

1990Racer, the build is ongoing. one of my hardest ones to date. I have been making a strong effort to build it up with lots of aftermarket goodies without any RPM parts.
It takes a lot of willpower.

aconsola wrote:1990Racer, the build is ongoing. one of my hardest ones to date. I have been making a strong effort to build it up with lots of aftermarket goodies without any RPM parts.
It takes a lot of willpower.

Thats a tough one since they were one of the only aftermarket supplyers of Losi parts