I'd be more comfortable doing it that way. The A&L vintage instruction say to use a 3/32" drill bit... Seems slightly large, leaving no room for error at all. 1/16" sounds better to me. I'm really good with a file.
NomadRacer's RC10 Trailing Arm Truck
- NomadRacer
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Re: NomadRacer's RC10 Trailing Arm Truck
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- scr8p
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Re: NomadRacer's RC10 Trailing Arm Truck
Factory Works (GoMachV/Jeff) has some serious customer support!
I got my conversion rear wheels this morning, they are heavy duty! Hex drive (12mm) with a special steel nut (5/16" drive). The hunt is on for my nut driver, no idea where the old Craftsman set is hiding. To bad MIP doesn't make one.
I got my conversion rear wheels this morning, they are heavy duty! Hex drive (12mm) with a special steel nut (5/16" drive). The hunt is on for my nut driver, no idea where the old Craftsman set is hiding. To bad MIP doesn't make one.
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- Basher67
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Re: NomadRacer's RC10 Trailing Arm Truck
Before drilling any holes, I "punch" the spot with an automatic center punch. It leaves a nice accurate divot to keep the drill bit from walking without deforming the surrounding metal like a standard punch and hammer.
- GoMachV
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Re: NomadRacer's RC10 Trailing Arm Truck
Those are nice. I also use them to drive out shafts that are stuck! They work well!
It's time to stand up to the bully. Support the companies that support the industry, not the ones that tear it down. Say no to Traxxas
Factory Works website
Factory Works website
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Re: NomadRacer's RC10 Trailing Arm Truck
Yes indeed, auto center punch is a fantastic tool to have in your arsenal.
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Re: NomadRacer's RC10 Trailing Arm Truck
Since my last post I've been busy with the tub. I drilled and slotted for the plates. That was serious work! They are not as nice as I planned, my marks where not quite right... should have spent more time on the prep work I received a modified rear shock tower this morning . Huge thanks to GoMachV for getting it to me so quick! Jeff is the man, he put some mojo on the package.
Next is to get the trailing arms aligned and flopping freely. The rear shocks are still in shipping mode.
Next is to get the trailing arms aligned and flopping freely. The rear shocks are still in shipping mode.
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- jwscab
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Re: NomadRacer's RC10 Trailing Arm Truck
So I'm looking at your chassis there and I see a potential problem, or at least a headache, but maybe I don't know enough about the trailing arm kit you have. It looks like you are running a truck rear tower. Did you adjust the tower ears to bring the shocks closer to a buggy style?
the reason I ask is the trailing arm is essentially like a short arm buggy width and the truck width is created by using the offset rear wheels, is that still right? If Jeff hasn't adjusted the width of the arm kit, you will probably want to run a buggy rear tower, or a factory works 'tall' tower to bring the shocks more inboard. I know the lower shock location gets might close to the wheel.
if you guys have figured all that out already, please ignore this.
the reason I ask is the trailing arm is essentially like a short arm buggy width and the truck width is created by using the offset rear wheels, is that still right? If Jeff hasn't adjusted the width of the arm kit, you will probably want to run a buggy rear tower, or a factory works 'tall' tower to bring the shocks more inboard. I know the lower shock location gets might close to the wheel.
if you guys have figured all that out already, please ignore this.
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Re: NomadRacer's RC10 Trailing Arm Truck
Yes, there is a small problem with the tower but we're working on it. I do have the offset wheels.jwscab wrote: ↑Fri Jan 12, 2018 1:43 pm So I'm looking at your chassis there and I see a potential problem, or at least a headache, but maybe I don't know enough about the trailing arm kit you have. It looks like you are running a truck rear tower. Did you adjust the tower ears to bring the shocks closer to a buggy style?
the reason I ask is the trailing arm is essentially like a short arm buggy width and the truck width is created by using the offset rear wheels, is that still right? If Jeff hasn't adjusted the width of the arm kit, you will probably want to run a buggy rear tower, or a factory works 'tall' tower to bring the shocks more inboard. I know the lower shock location gets might close to the wheel.
if you guys have figured all that out already, please ignore this.
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- GoMachV
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Re: NomadRacer's RC10 Trailing Arm Truck
Sorry I hadn’t seen this since we were on vacation, but yes- the plan for his is buggy style rear with offset wheels and a T style tower, which is a work in progress. I want it to look 10T ish, but the shocks need to be in the right spot too. It’s taking a few tries to get it right. Same thing I would be doing if it were my own at home here
It's time to stand up to the bully. Support the companies that support the industry, not the ones that tear it down. Say no to Traxxas
Factory Works website
Factory Works website
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Re: NomadRacer's RC10 Trailing Arm Truck
No worries Jeff, it's going to be fantastic when we get it figured out!
I got a couple more parts for the front end, it's close to being done now. The turnbuckles and rod ends are on there temporarily. I'll be swapping them for Lunsford turnbuckles and RPM rod ends, needed something to be able to get a measurement.
I got a couple more parts for the front end, it's close to being done now. The turnbuckles and rod ends are on there temporarily. I'll be swapping them for Lunsford turnbuckles and RPM rod ends, needed something to be able to get a measurement.
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- scr8p
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Re: NomadRacer's RC10 Trailing Arm Truck
Just tell them you were going for the 91 Worlds look
It's time to stand up to the bully. Support the companies that support the industry, not the ones that tear it down. Say no to Traxxas
Factory Works website
Factory Works website
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