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vintage boy wrote:as the saying goes, some guys have all the luck, iam only asking for one kit only jrx pro-se which i still dont have (pls. sell me some) and here you are having a multiple builds, life is unfair, nice work man

here you go: http://cgi.ebay.com/Team-Losi-Jrx-pro-se-pro-se-Ultra-rare-JRXpro-1-10-NIB-/170568328526?pt=Radio_Control_Vehicles&hash=item27b6aa254e

Hi Guys,

I just realised that I had not updated this thread for quite a while!

I have built and run (quite heavily to I might add!) both the highly modded SWB 5 link and the rebuilt and lightly modded Pro LWB.

Rather than talk alot - here are some pics. Both cars performed really well. The Pro was used to win a vintage 4 hour enduro race (non stop) here in Aus - performed faultlessly. Both cars see alot of work when vintage meets come up - cause I am a Losi man at heart.

























Cheers

Darryn

That 5 link looks great in action, what are those nerf bar looking things on the side?

RCveteran wrote:That 5 link looks great in action, what are those nerf bar looking things on the side?

I'm pretty sure they are Trinity # 7112 nerf wings, pictured here on the left. They come in pairs. On the right is the JG "wall banger" nerf meant for the right side of oval cars.

Retro, great looking rides. Could you post your setup info on the short wheelbase 5-link car?

I too am interested on your set-up on the modernized 5-link racer.

So many builds in this thread, it is hard for me to keep track of exactly which ones are the runners in the pictures...

Are you using RC10B4 JConcepts Rulux wheels front and back? How does the offset work for the front track? I think that I saw you assembling JRX2 and Pro front ends using the stock arms ... do the B4 wheels make the front track noticably narrower?

Also, you showed pictures of modern 2.2 tires cut down and glued to fit vintage 1.9 rims. I am assuming that you assemble them on the wheel because the super glue wouldn't hold up to stretching over a rim ... how much of the diameter do you remove for 2.2 --> 1.9? Do you eyeball it and measure each time, do (Pi)r^2 each time, or what? And how do you keep them true on the rim? I've seen it done on crawler tires but never on something with the rpm of tires on a brushless powered buggy ...

That castle hill track must be REALLY tight..It looks like your runner X2 even has swept front arms...is there a straight where he is a handful?

shirochanwrx wrote:I too am interested on your set-up on the modernized 5-link racer.

So many builds in this thread, it is hard for me to keep track of exactly which ones are the runners in the pictures...

Are you using RC10B4 JConcepts Rulux wheels front and back? How does the offset work for the front track? I think that I saw you assembling JRX2 and Pro front ends using the stock arms ... do the B4 wheels make the front track noticably narrower?

Also, you showed pictures of modern 2.2 tires cut down and glued to fit vintage 1.9 rims. I am assuming that you assemble them on the wheel because the super glue wouldn't hold up to stretching over a rim ... how much of the diameter do you remove for 2.2 --> 1.9? Do you eyeball it and measure each time, do (Pi)r^2 each time, or what? And how do you keep them true on the rim? I've seen it done on crawler tires but never on something with the rpm of tires on a brushless powered buggy ...

You need to use spacers on the front for B4 wheels, at least I did to clear the steering ball ends, I used some rear axle spacers that go behind the drive pins and it perfect, same width as stock then give or take a mm. I too am curious about the modern rubber on the smaller original wheels.

Back when I raced dirt oval, we used to "lower" tires all the time, cut a ribbon or 2 out and reglue them back together. I had some really low-pro tires on some of my dirt oval trucks (think Losi buggy step pins streched onto a truck rim low)

I have done many "cut n shut" front 4wd buggy tires over the past few years, but I havent shortened a tire in quite a few years.

how do you glue them together?

regular CA....cuts need to be extremely straight. use a dot on the very edge, then dot it in (slowly) about every 1/2". go back and dot in between each glue mark, working your way around the tire. keep repeating until the tire is glued completely back together. then turn the tire inside out and reinforce any area that appears the glue didnt penatrate deeply. done correctly, it is hard to tell it isnt a factory tire.

here is an article talking about making narrow fronts, but the same process can be used to shorten tires too...just change your cuts

http://www.xfactoryrc.com/rc/Tech/FrontTires.php

I am having a hard time picturing how to do this with a perpendicular cut to the tire to shrink the diameter?

Two cuts perpendicular to the tire are made. A section is removed, and then the reaming ends are rejoined. The reverse process was actually used back when 2.2s first cam into use, and the US teams didn't have 2.2 tires. Some guys would ADD a small section from a donor tire to make a 2.0 have a large enough diameter for a 2.2 wheel. I remember a mag pic of some 2.2 stretched losi patterns by the Dirtinator.

Cool idea, I would not have thought it would hold but I guess once glued to the wheel properly it has support all the way around.

And at a minimum I will end up with my usual fingers glued together or the tire glued to my workbench

I understand that you just "change the cuts", but changing the width of a tire is a lot more forgiving than changing the diameter, which is why I was asking if he calculates the necessary width to remove in advance, has a standard width that he removes each time, or just eyeballs it.

I'll probably give it a go anyway, even if I do end up doing some math and ruining some tires!

About the front end width: spacers on the front to move the B4 wheels out sounds like a simple enough plan on the stock JRX2 axles ... has anyone run other manufacturer's carrier/spindle/axles on the front of the JRX2 in order to get more width? I've seen B3 / T3 front assemblies on cars ... how does this work out in terms of overall width? I know that XX front assemblies work (once drilled out to accept the larger JRX2 hingepin) allowing use of XX 2.2 rims ... do XXT assemblies (with their more conventional axle set-up) work? Or RC10GT "wide" axles with any of the above spindles? I've seen them on eBay and Tower Hobbies and I keep wondering if they would have an application in getting a wider stance on a JRX2.

Obviously I just need to go out and drop $50 on parts and start jumbling them together ... I want to make sure I don't waste money on thing that folks already know don't work!

shirochanwrx wrote:I want to make sure I don't waste money on thing that folks already know don't work!

Well what fun is that