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hoop, that thing really belongs in a museum. STELLAR work! I hate to say that I agree with Asa, but I do. You need an alum wing. Also, if it were me, just because of the realism of the tuber, I would put a Tamiya driver doll in it as well. It's a BEAUT!

hoop that thing looks amazing, and you didnt need to rush it, between money and my relationship, i got a good month before i finish haha. but that is one of the best rc10's out there ever and pales in comparison to mine, truly truly awesome and amazing job, congrats

That's a masterpiece, for sure. I like how you incorporated the RC10 nose piece. Are you really going to run that thing?

thanks for the wing offer asa but i have a thorp aluminum wing that might look pretty good on there. i remember it being kinda bent and a little hammered on but i could probably straighten it out a little and maybe cover up the creases with a sticker or something. i like the non-wing look myself, but if i flip it over it would be nice to have a wing to serve as a skid. i got a couple other of the more narrow kyosho style wings as well.

Asso_man! wrote:does your LiPo pack always stay inside or is there a way to put it off?

theres 4 zip ties to cut off and the battery comes out. it would be no problem in a panic situation to tear off the hood and yank the lipo out. and although i try to store them in a battery bag, the lipo is in the rig right now and i'm starting to freak about my house burning down...

whats the tamiya driver doll lex? i recall a thread where somebody broke down what pieces were used on the boxart 6010, like a body from one kit and the head from another or something. theres plenty of room to get a pretty realistic driver in there if i wanted to go that route. i kinda think the wild willy dude would be cool in there, but i dunno how big that driver figure is in comparison to a frog driver.

i need to order the b4 slipper and hardware, i might as well get a driver while i'm at it.

If you need a Tamiya driver, I am sure I can dig one up. Just lemme know.

mrlexan wrote: I hate to say that I agree with Asa, but I do.

oh gee thanks

Hoop, the only time I would really worry about a Li-Po is while charging. I have been using them for a few years now and never had an incident. That include the one I drove into the ground at about 40mph in a Hellcat. Most newer packs have built in circuitry that prevents over-charging so even that is not as big a deal as before.

Have you checked out the Lithium Manganese or maybe Lithium Iron Phosphate batteries? I don't know how small the Phosphates get but I have seen Manganese for RC applications. They are suppose to be much safer. I have not had a chance to check them out.

asashaw wrote:

mrlexan wrote: I hate to say that I agree with Asa, but I do.

oh gee thanks

I was only kidding.

I bow down in front of greatness. That ride is off the hook awesomeness!

Sure wish I had one.

i just freaking broke it... first run...

gotta ship it back to josh and see if he can beef up the little plates that the front shocks mount to on the hoop. the shock hoop itself is fine, just the little pieces of steel that the shock stud mounts to pulled away from the hoop.

nothing serious, but still pretty damn bummed. now i gotta get it all re-done again.

sorry to hear that man... makes me nervous about the tower myself here, as you can see in my pics i still havent done anything with it... i think im gonna stick with a normal shock tower at this point.

its all good, just looks like it was a weak spot in the weld. nothing on the actual tube section is broken, just the little plate attached to the shock hoop pulled off.

i'll tear it down and get it fixed and improved in a couple spots and re-powdered. no big deal, but it still kinda bums me out.

will regular old paint stripper take off powdercoat?

i may just go buy a brazing kit and re-do the mounts myself. from the looks of the 'break', it seems like after grinding down the weld there wasnt hardly anything left to hold the plate to the rod.

http://www.caswellplating.com/powder/s_stripper.html
Dont know if home depot stripper will work to be honest, that stuff sucks on latex paint sometimes lol


home depot sells this kit for $50 bucks

http://www.bernzomatic.com/bernzomatic/consumer/jhtml/detail.jhtml?prodId=BernzoProd100044

the oxygen doesnt last long but long enough to make fixes etc, probably a full 5 minutes at a continuous burn, maybe 7-8 if you turn the oxygen down really low.