RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

Ok, here is a whole bunch more pics. Don't worry I will be replacing some of the parts I put back on the car, its just I had sooo many parts on my desk, and so much room, this will make it easier for me to build as I can get rid of all the parts that are being replaced and make my work area neater.

After putting it together, I found that the quality of the ST15 parts are not nearly as quality as the kyosho parts. The rear arms and bearing carriers are just fine, but the front bulk head is horrible, I will take you guys up on getting the stock one, the hinge pins didn't really fit because the parts were warped and I don't have a hinge pin reamer, so I put the hinge pin in a dremel and spun it in there to free it up and it worked ok, but I am not satisfied, and I had to drill out the top deck holes on the bulkhead because they were too small, but the 2 peice design sort of looks cool on there. I may have just got a bad casting.

Of course I need to get adjustible turnbuckles.

I'm not sure what the parts that came with the servo mounts are for.

The rhino steering looks like it will work great! I need to put a washer on top of the posts because there is a gap between them and the top deck, and I need to get a draglink.

The rear cvds look like they will work awesome!!!

The only thing I don't like about the JG deck is that they didn't drill holes for a front sway bar and for a body mount.

I need to find a new chassis, because I cut into it as a kid, but I just shined it and the shock towers up for now.

I really like how it is turning out, I just need a few more parts and it will be mostly complete. Does anyone know where I can find a body cage and the part that mounts to the rear shock tower and the motor mount that the body hinges on? I may be able to salvage the body cage.

Sorry if I seem to be typing in random bursts, I am tired its midnight here.

Here are some pics:

So what size did the duratrax wheels turn out to be? The offset looks nice and wide; exactly why I recommended these wheels.
The duratrax rear arms look trick too and don't worry about the tension on the front hinge pins: as long as your arms hinge freely on the pins, you're all good.
Did you get their front bumper too by the way?

One side of the front arms moves freely, but the other side don't really. I didn't get the front bumper. I held the wheels up to my T4 and they are the same size diameter, so yeah they are 2.2.

I have some front to back play in the rear arms, it was like that with the stock ones, should I shim it?

What turnbuckles do you recomend, I contacted lumsford and they said they made them back in the day for the ultima, they even gave me the sizes.

How would I use sway bars with the adjustible turnbuckles?

I am really enjoying this build!!! I really want to put a brushless system in it, but I may still just stick to brushed setup as they are cheaper, and this car won't really be ran too much, just occasionally for fun.

yes shim the rears arms, i used associated shock shims on mine i think.

turnbuckles, lunsford makes loose sizes, associated makes steel ones in pairs you could probably find, or tecnacraft if they pop up on ebay. best bet (and cheapest) are probably steel)

the tower st-15 front bumper is a perfect fit

car looks great so far.

here are a bunch of ultima parts from some ebay seller, nothing a super duper bargain but most are fairly priced
http://shop.ebay.com/fireboy125/m.html?_nkw=&_armrs=1&_from=&_ipg=&_trksid=p4340

Wow man, I love the boats. This is excellent work.

The wheels are looking good. I would get the lumsford turnbuckles and if you have the size you can get them in pair on Tower. Remember you need to get the 5.8 ball ends and the only ones I have seen are HPI or ordering them straight from Kyosho. OT-35 is the kit #, but it only includes 10, I think, and you need 12.

If anyone knows more info on this LMK.

What’s your plan on the Body? Are you keeping the original one?
With this wheels and front arms I am thinking something on white and red with white dominating the scheme.

Looking good.

Thanks guys, I plan on keeping the body original, I think white and red would look really good too.

I may go with the lusnford or tencraft, not really sure yet.

Don't worry guys, I haven't forgot about this build. I got my enlistment bonus and bought a new B44 from amainhobbies and a used ZX5 FS from ebay with novak gtb esc and 6.5 motor and smc 4900 saddle packs with for $300!!! I really missed my xxx-4 and wanted to get a 4wd buggy again, and couldn't pass up the zx5 on ebay with all those gooddies for only $300. Here is a link to what I got.


http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=320456346307#ht_500wt_1182

I just need a new ultima rb5 now lol. I hope to get back to the ultima after christmas.

if you need shock collars, these are probably your cheapest bet

http://cgi.ebay.com/8mm-SHOCK-COLLARS-Ultima-Tomahawk-Kyosho-RC-CRP-9126_W0QQitemZ230402658147QQcmdZViewItemQQptZRadio_Control_Parts_Accessories?hash=item35a5118f63

the original ones were horrid, i have a bag of them all snapped in same spot.

with the CRP ones do not overtighten the grub screw, it will mess up how well the shock towers inside, it will stick

m_vice wrote: Wow man, I love the boats. This is excellent work.

The wheels are looking good. I would get the lumsford turnbuckles and if you have the size you can get them in pair on Tower. Remember you need to get the 5.8 ball ends and the only ones I have seen are HPI or ordering them straight from Kyosho. OT-35 is the kit #, but it only includes 10, I think, and you need 12.

If anyone knows more info on this LMK.
...

You could use the st-15 maerial from duratrax: available at tower, but it was a popular mod in my club to replace everything with rc10 cups and balls where possible. For the turnbuckles: I liked to use yokomo turnbuckles on my projects while I lived in Japan. They were readily available, not tooo expensive and came in pairs with a very large range of different lengths increasing in small steps

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&W=000308206&I=LXWZ07&P=K
are these 5.8mm? they will fit the original balls?

i am building a Turbo Ultima kind of close to out of the box and that is why i wanted the original ends. but i am working on a runned that will use RC10 balls and ends.
thanks Mr.ED.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXWZ54&P=7
says the balls are 5.9mm but I 'd be surprised if they are truely different from the original 5.8

probably someone at tower with a caliper and them saying to themselves "hmm 5.8-5.9 doesnt sound right, lets put 6mm"

just my guess. i think they do measure alot of their own parts there for reference

they do measure alot of parts and list dimensions, which is nice. However, you have to take the dimensions as suggestion, not actual values. They are more often than not, just 'close enough'. Been burned on that a couple times now, assuming the dimensions were correct.

alot of times they measure everything in metric where it wasnt supposed to be in metric, if that makes sense lol

http://www.hpiracing.com/products/en/3032/
tower sells those rims, they are 2.2 rims, and tower has a metric measurement in there, and i really dont understand why since tower is a american company. the measurements are correct just strange.

After what seemed like years, it finially arived. Now I need turnbuckles.