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Thanks Lynn!

does anyone else find it offensive that most of the associated parts that are still available are now being made in china? we must have too many jobs here in the U.S.A.

yellabelly wrote:does anyone else find it offensive that most of the associated parts that are still available are now being made in china? we must have too many jobs here in the U.S.A.

Nope.

Most of us are aware Associated is owned by Thunder Tiger in China.
So with the efficiencies of cheaper production costs.....
What else would you expect.

Just the fact they are making them is all I care about. And I suspect most would agree.

Not to mention the chassis are made in the USA and honestly between the price and the finish is it really worth it? As was mentioned elsewhere, you can get good and bad quality control in any country.

its a good thing they make them, I agree as well. however having broken 3 servo savers / bellcranks this week, first a u.s. made part that had been on my rig close to ten years. then two china made pieces the same day, makes me wonder is buying multiples of a cheap part truly a savings over buying one good one? we could be running rustlers, but chose rc10 for quality. so when the quality goes away.... settle??? as for qc, that would be a matter of pride. btw I replaced the bellcrank w a ano blue aluminum Tamiya part, from unknown road car. ball bearing pivots and virtually no slop. really helps the car DRIVE better.

yellabelly wrote:does anyone else find it offensive that most of the associated parts that are still available are now being made in china? we must have too many jobs here in the U.S.A.

I like this member ......we are on the same page

yellabelly wrote:we could be running rustlers, but chose rc10 for quality.

IMO, quality isn't the Rc10's strong suit. Coming from someone who owns both, I can say that the Rc10 is in many ways better quality than the Rustler.
Compare the Rc10 to pretty much any modern car, however, and it falls short. It just doesn't fit together as well or easily as most modern kits. That goes for all versions, not just the re-re's.

ive been running my gold for 25 years, when that number hits 50 how many plastic rigs will still be kicking? im not here to bitch just trying to learn a few tricks on how to look fast and go good.

Any chance someone could help me out with differences between OG and re-release Worlds shock towers? From pictures it looks like the new ones have and extra camber link hole on the front tower? Any other differences?

The originals have a white core which is seen on the edges.

Thanks for that one, looks like I picked up some old ones. Anyone know if the new production part 6231 (CE style front tower) has the milled or stamped edges? I have an old milled one in the package I am tempted to use on a build because I like the way it looks but I am having a hard time breaking into whats maybe a 20 year old package.

on the world's car chassis part number 6302

is there a difference from the original and re-release? if so how can one spot the difference

battery box holes are further forward on the rere, and no letter stamp.

Is the gold anodizing a different shade on the new Re re versus the original?

Yes it's different. A bit lighter but not like the early cars either. It's also dull and blotchy. Here is a caddy on the left and the rere on the right