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Eau Rouge wrote: I was shocked to find out that it came in at 1490 grams, a whole 9 grams under the ROAR 2wd minimum.

I tossed my powdercoated car on the scale...1610 , then an RTR graphite car (brushed with Novak T1) 1408. Wow...I didnt think they would be that close (or heavy on the other car).

Using a Checkpoint 5400 red lipo for both weigh-ins.

So very typical with the way my life works, something happened today that will not only probably keep me from racing anytime soon, but will probably force the sale of this car. If anyone is interested in a roller, ready to go with a new, unpainted RC10 Protech body, PM me. I will probably be putting this up for sale in the next 12 hours.

Sorry to hear this Doug, this car is sweet, you'll have no trouble getting rid of it...

Hope things work out for you

Man, sorry to hear was looking forward to more on the car. I hope all is well. PM sent.

Doug, very sorry to hear the news. The best to you and your family.

I'm sorry to hear the news and that you had to sell the buggy. I hope everything is looking better.

Eau Rouge wrote:

delsami wrote:b44 rear cvd's and b4 rear hub carriers?

Yup, no modification other than enlarging the B4 sized .109" hingepin hole with a reamer to .125" for RC10 pins. The hubs are flopped to opposite sides for better alignment of the linkage, but it's probably not necessary. I'm not sure why people are machining their rear hubs, everything fits just fine as it is right out of the package.

I get some slight interference at full compression with the tire insides on the shock bottoms, but the drivetrain is fully free and clear of any issues.

Hi, will the B44 cvd's work properly/align with a 6gear as well as they do with the stealth? never dealt with a stealth to compare...
Thanks

I had the same question about the 6 gear. They work great with the stealth with World arms/Klein arms.

Eau Rouge wrote:Futaba s9550. Very popular with the touring car crowd. I have used them for years and they are as strong and as fast as a full size servo. I think with cars like the TLR 22 coming out, you'll see more of them in off road.

I used that servo in my Mid44 converted B44. It's a good comprimize between size and torque for offroad buggies. Not my first choise of servos in offroad but it does the job well when you need the extra space. I think it is a good fit in the RC10 and will be using the same servo in my RC10 runner when I build it.

Zipster wrote:Hi, will the B44 cvd's work properly/align with a 6gear as well as they do with the stealth? never dealt with a stealth to compare...
Thanks

There could be a depth issue. The outdrives for the 6 gear are not as deep as they are with the Stealth. I dont have a set of B44's to measure it out.

Eau Rouge wrote:A closer shot of the rear end using contemporary Associate parts and old ones...

hmm, any thoughts on a potential alternative? I have been gathering up parts (B4 carriers, etc..), and the only thing I don't yet have are the cvd's - hate to spend a bunch on parts that won't fit, and while I'd like to run a stealth, that will have to come later down the road (gotta spread out the pain - from the wallet & wife!).

A great thread; thanks for posting Doug

I'm going to attempt this build myself and have just snagged a donor car off ebay. I'm in the UK and we have a few places that I can source most of the parts from, but they're all pretty pricey. Where would you get your parts from in the USA? Even with postage and import costs the exchange rate works in my favour and would make it cheaper to buy from across the pond.

(Sad to read that you had to sell yours!)

Appreciate your help

Hey Jedi,
I've been building something similar (graphite-based, but using this as a guide) and while I had to split it up a bit due to availability - I ended up going to RCPlanet for a most parts - bit cheaper than Tower (although I order from there regularly) and seemed to have more of the parts needed in stock at any given time - it does add up a bit, though

By the way, make sure you get the right rear B4 hubs - there are two kinds, one with same sized bearings (looks like the ones above), and one with different sized bearings (they "step" to larger outside diameter on the outer edge) - somewhere there is a parts list for this build, and I think it has the parts number for the wrong one (or maybe I just screwed up)- I ended up buying both. If you follow this approach, you need the ones for same sized bearings (ASC9584).

Ether of the hubs work, just one you'll need different bearings for the outside.

Zipster wrote:Hey Jedi,
I've been building something similar (graphite-based, but using this as a guide) and while I had to split it up a bit due to availability - I ended up going to RCPlanet for a most parts - bit cheaper than Tower (although I order from there regularly) and seemed to have more of the parts needed in stock at any given time - it does add up a bit, though

By the way, make sure you get the right rear B4 hubs - there are two kinds, one with same sized bearings (looks like the ones above), and one with different sized bearings (they "step" to larger outside diameter on the outer edge) - somewhere there is a parts list for this build, and I think it has the parts number for the wrong one (or maybe I just screwed up)- I ended up buying both. If you follow this approach, you need the ones for same sized bearings (ASC9584).

Good to know - I'll get both!

Cheers Zipster!