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I totally get the nostalgia of keeping things original, but that conversion Gom showed looks killer. I'm keeping my fingers crossed that AE keeps supporting these classic platforms.

racerjam wrote: ↑Sun Dec 15, 2024 11:06 am I totally get the nostalgia of keeping things original

Thats the best part, both the FR-01 and the Ten4 kit are readily available so no fear in destroying something vintage
Fan also has a kit minus chassis now, for those wanting to run a tub chassis or something different.

Quick couple of questions @ GoMachV ..

Q1. I think i'd like to convert a Fan rc car would I be able to use the fan rc ball diff in the AE 6565 style transmission case now that it's narrower? Would I need AEs newest diff outdrives or is the Fan rc diff unit OK as is?

Q2. I'm pretty sure that this is the best kit for the Fan rc to order "Black CE / Team Towers & black parts"?

Q3. During the order process I'm not quite sure how to spec the long front cvd length units or is simply not selecting "short classic towers" enough to get the long ones.

Q4. Are there any other parts I'd need that could be sourced from Factoryworks that are not included in the kit that would be needed to complete it? (I know about chassis adapter and drill template btw) obviously I'm not talking about electronics, wheels tyres etc.

Many thanks

Jon

1) the best route with currently available parts imo is to move the FanRC diff to the front since our kit is designed around the older stealths (the rere wasnt around yet) and the wide FanRC diff won't fit the new AE case. Then grab the AE 6565 rear case and AE 6578 outdrives. You can use either FanRC parts or AE parts to complete that diff. The only way to use the FanRC diff in the rear is to source an original 6565 case, as they were wider. The FanRC case won't work with the bearings in the idler.
2) the black parts are stronger, white are weaker. Both hold up fine, but if you will be running it the black are best. The shock towers are just a matter of color preference. They are the same tower.
3) the CVDs included match the towers, so as long as you select the CE/Team style towers you will get the long CVDs.
4) the adapter/drill template is really all you should need from us to complete the build. If you wish to run 12mm wheels front and rear, you will want to locate a set of wheel adapters for the 3/16" axles. We only have the vintage 1/4" adapters. Make sure to go over the documents on the website (scroll to the bottom of the Ten4 page, look over the FAQ, parts list, and manual) just to make sure you are informed before purchase.

Thanks Jon!

Many thanks for the reply this is great information..

Best

Jon

Are the Fan cars SAE or Metric hardware?

^ Metric

I just built up my blue edition Fan RC FR 01. It went together very well. No issues at all. The diff was smooth, the cases held everything correctly, and the shock bodies are lightyears ahead of anything AE ever put out.

I'm not interested in any of the re-releases from AE, but this kit is pretty cool.

I've mentioned on here that I was having some diff and gear mesh issues. Nothing major. I've run about 5 packs through it so I decided to rebuild the diff. Well not really. Just took it apart and swapped out the T nut in the diff. First time around even though I was being careful but not enough I guess and I pulled the threaded insert out of the T nut. With the new nut in the diff tightened up nicely. It's pretty smooth but not ultra smooth. Good enough. Anyway while putting it back together it looked as though the motor shaft was not exactly perpendicular to the motor plate. And the plate looked a little bent. I ordered a new motor guard and plate and I'm hoping this helps the mesh issue. Because just by rolling the car along the floor the spur and pinion gears make a fair amount of noise.

Finally built my fr-01 yesterday and today and unfortunately mine was from a batch that had a bad idle mesh, bought it middle of last year - sent a message to Cheng fan and no questions asked is sending me the updated idler to sort the problems, really awesome guy to deal with and takes great pride in his product. Highly recommend his product and support for sure

Oh wow. So as I posted just above I guess I had the same issue. There was a point where the gears would bind up. I thought it was all pinion and spur mesh issues. However, I actually took a file and sand paper to the teeth of both the diff gear and idler gear. The idler gear definitely had some rough spots. Small but enough. Now that I know it's a known issue and has been addressed I will pick up a new idler gear.

The new motor plate improved the spur and pinion connection though as well. And the new motor guard came with plastic spacers. I'm happy with the results. I'm guessing these brushless motors have a decent amount of drag to them when not powered up? Everything rolls freely and well within the acceptably smooth range until the pinion is on and the motor drag binds things up. Does this seem normal to anyone?

Modern brushless motors will have a notchy feel too them from the magnets.

Thanks RogueIV. However, things only got worse when I tried to run it. An electrical issue nothing to do with the kit or parts. The motor won't turn. I can get it to work if I give the rotor a spin for like a push start but once there's no throttle input the motor won't start from still. Tried a few things but am hoping a new sensor wire does the trick. I hope I didn't ruin something because while I was at it I re-soldered the motor wires and I'm not the best at soldering. Everything looks right but something is def messed up.

If I can get that straightened out and figure out how to post pictures I'll throw some up.

Yup. Screwed up the ESC. I ended up with a soldering iron that had a wide tip. Yada yada yada terminals got too hot melted some plastic and i think the terminals touched inside the motor. I have another car to build so I bought the same motor ESC combo tested them together and the esc was the odd man out. I've since improved my soldering...

Learning how to properly tin the terminal and wire makes the connection much easier.

Trying to force it with heat is a good way to destroy things.

Yup. So I'll share where I think i went wrong but it's the same thing. I actually had both the wire and the terminal tinned but I think with too much solder. When I joined them it got a little messy and I fumbled around trying to "wipe" some of the excess solder off with the hot iron. The large iron tip I had transferred a lot of heat and was difficult to control and the result was melted plastic around the terminals. It worked fine until i decided to get fancy and rewire to make the wiring look nice and neat. Same soldering process and same poor result. This time enough plastic was damaged and the tabs on the motor terminals inside the motor touched. I've since changed soldering tips and technique and PRACTICED and the results are much less damaging now. Lol.