RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

kenooze wrote:Guy's

I'm really sorry for my vision of a replica car !
I'm not sure to did this so "perfectly", I just try to stick to the Brian job.

About the battery brace, Yes, I guess, I will have some difficulties to do the same "foot made" quality.

But if you take a look at the added pricture, the Brian brace looks really different and not cutted in a standard brace, from RC10 or 10T.

(The stainless steel part pictured still my first design.)

Don’t be sorry about anything Cedric. Believe me, I am sure everyone in this forum loves the car.

Keep the good work coming.

ya, don't take anything i said to mean that i don't like your car. i do.

great build.... im lovin it

WOW! what a great build, this is simply awsome, great job

Black Glass fiber machined.

Sorry, but I don't know to did it as "foot made" as the Brian's.

I suppose than Brian use he's battery brace on both sides, that's explain the white area's on it.





Could you advise about the HPC blue heatsink brand and the white sticker on the Battery brace ?

Some other things you need to do are:

1) You need a yellow Losi spur for the hydra drive.
2) A cap head 440 screw with a gold washer for the slipper adjustment in place of the nut with set screw on the Hydra drive.
3) In the back he used one button head 440 screw to hold the motor plate to the chassis (This was in the center of the two normal mounting holes, I think he did this to create flex.)

Sticker: PIN_IT TO WIN ???? Not sure!

i think it says....... POLE TO WIN

slotcarrod wrote:Some other things you need to do are:

1) You need a yellow Losi spur for the hydra drive.
2) A cap head 440 screw with a gold washer for the slipper adjustment in place of the nut with set screw on the Hydra drive.
3) In the back he used one button head 440 screw to hold the motor plate to the chassis (This was in the center of the two normal mounting holes, I think he did this to create flex.)

that would depend on what pictures he going by. take a look at the pics in this thread between the car in the rcca article, and the pics from the car at the actual race. even the motor plate is different.

http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=1431

scr8p wrote:

slotcarrod wrote:Some other things you need to do are:

1) You need a yellow Losi spur for the hydra drive.
2) A cap head 440 screw with a gold washer for the slipper adjustment in place of the nut with set screw on the Hydra drive.
3) In the back he used one button head 440 screw to hold the motor plate to the chassis (This was in the center of the two normal mounting holes, I think he did this to create flex.)

that would depend on what pictures he going by. take a look at the pics in this thread between the car in the rcca article, and the pics from the car at the actual race. even the motor plate is different.

http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=1431

Your right! Same chassis with same IFMAR tag but different complete transmissions!

I wonder if the non RCCA pictures are of the car in a qualifier or earlier main. There are 3 rounds, RCCA would have got the car after the final race! Did Kinwald run all 3 races?

going by the article, he ran all 3 mains.

Yes guy's, I focus my replica on they pictures I had posted.
They comes from a friend of mine, taken just after the technical inspection...

The transmission in the RCCA could be another one.

Brian did some of this joke sometime.

In 1999 after the Finish World mains, he gaved he's car for pictures, but the car fit strengly a LRP electronic.
In fact that's he's drive trains but on the chassis of Matt Francis.
Why, just because, Matt did another setting of suspension during the B main, this one looks better, so they removed the front and rear drive train of the Matt car to put it on the Brian Chassis for the last Main.

After I complain, Junior went to the pit to rebuild properly the Brian car, and gave it back to me for the right pictures

kenooze wrote:Yes guy's, I focus my replica on they pictures I had posted.
They comes from a friend of mine, taken just after the technical inspection...

The transmission in the RCCA could be another one.

Brian did some of this joke sometime.

In 1999 after the Finish World mains, he gaved he's car for pictures, but the car fit strengly a LRP electronic.
In fact that's he's drive trains but on the chassis of Matt Francis.
Why, just because, Matt did another setting of suspension during the B main, this one looks better, so they removed the front and rear drive train of the Matt car to put it on the Brian Chassis for the last Main.

After I complain, Junior went to the pit to rebuild properly the Brian car, and gave it back to me for the right pictures

Was CB the photographer???

Paul

NO

They was taken by mister Didier "le postier" Albuisson or for the english speaker Didier "the postman" Albuisson.

That would explain the motor out of the car in those pictures, it was just coming out of tech! I think there was some motor controversy in 4WD at that race! Some one lost his position over it!

Cedric, you still need to add the button head screw to the back of the car, It is in the right hole. The center hole is still drilled but not counter sunk, the left screw hole is empty!

Did Kinwald use a 40 mhz RX and a Futaba TX? You have a Futaba crystal shown, I thought Kinwald used Airtronics! The RX in the picture had a black antenna wire! 27 mhz?

You need to cut a slot in the battery box for the Reedy battery plug. I wonder what battery bars Kinwald used?

Yes !

About the receiver, I had only a 40Mhz NER3FM !
But I removed the yellow wire to replace it by a green one from 75Mhz.

About the crystal, I just put something inside.

About battery connectors, I have the male to sold to the wire, but any femal to sold on the batterie, any help could be helpfull !

Thanks

Cedric