RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

RichieRich wrote:

SFC K wrote:
Thanks Jeff! I just sent them the Fax. Now the waiting game begins as they just shut down warehouse operations for the holidays until the 30th.


http://www.teamassociated.com/support/

You sent a what?

Customer Support form that you fax to them if you have a defective part or parts.

http://www.teamassociated.com/warranties/

gomachv wrote:Just tell them flat out you want a 6565 case and 6570 idler, they didn't reply but it arrived a couple days later

I told them I would like the shaft replaced but I'd like to order 2 6565 cases. No worries, we can send you those. Box arrives a week later and had 2 6564 cases in it

i think associated needs to cut their losses and either redo their tranny or just sell the kits without and let the buyer supply their own. than rpm needs to reissue their stealth change boxes to even it out

Add me to the list of guys with WC issues.

Bought my car from LiquidRC on ebay back in october, was $189 and included the 6565 10T case and the B4 top shaft.

Got the trans together and I still have some minor binding. I also had to install an extra set of bearings in the 10T case to support the RERE idler. But I ran the transmission in my drill press for about 20 minutes and it loosened up to the point I was happy enough with it.

Today got to the CVD's, one went together no problem, the other hopelessly binds when the pin is installed, which by the way needed to be forced through. Inspecing the CVD cup reveals that indeed the cross pin hole is far enough off center to be noticable with the eye. When the pin is forced through it pushes the dog bone section up against the cup and it binds hard.

Called AE today, I think I spoke with someone named Nick, explained the issue with the CVD and they said to just forward over my sales receipt and a description of the issue to the service email address and they would take care of it. Did that, and also requested that they provide a proper 6570 idler so I can try that since I still have some binding using the RERE idler.

I am off from work this week and planned on building and running this car. Looks like that's not happening now since I have to wait for parts. I thought I was covered being that my seller provided the updated trans parts. Then the CVD got me. I tried to drill out the CVD but ended up breaking two of my tiny drill bits so gave up.

You must have not watched my video the idler is most of the problem, but you need the USA case to use the 6570 idler

Well here she is. Trackstar 5200KV brushless combo should be here tomorrow, Hitec 5485HB digital on steering, Hobbyking 2.4 radio. Machined out the bad CVD to get it to spin. Hopefully AE comes through with the replacement. Losi vintage rubber. Ordered a set of white wheels to dye orange. Orange nitro fuel line on the turnbuckles and screws. I tried to dye the white parts orange but they came out red so it all got the black treatment .

SFC K wrote:

RichieRich wrote:

SFC K wrote:
Thanks Jeff! I just sent them the Fax. Now the waiting game begins as they just shut down warehouse operations for the holidays until the 30th.


http://www.teamassociated.com/support/

You sent a what?

Customer Support form that you fax to them if you have a defective part or parts.

http://www.teamassociated.com/warranties/

Finally after over a month of waiting AE sent me replacement parts!

They actually sent me two top shafts too. Not sure why but I will take it.

Case part # 6565-001
Idler shaft and gear part # 6570-001
Top Shaft B4/T4 part # 9601

If anyone is having the same issues it is definitely worth the effort. I faxed over a customer support form and emailed them a couple times with great results.

Damn. This re-released WC was super tempting. I was hoping the quality problems would have been smoothed out by now. Bummer.

I'll keep checking this thread though, in case there's a turnaround.

-Peter

mikea96 wrote:If the buggy is setup right it can be very competitive against the modern buggies and there are plenty of guys on here that race them!

This is especially true in road racing full sized cars at the amateur level. Good drivers in slower cars routinely spank less skilled drivers with the best cars money can buy.

-Peter

Indeed. I just tried my friends 93 worlds re re yesterday in practice..i never driven a 2wd...and i got the hang of it right away. He put in a 8.5t and yet the car was still controlable and corners great with minimum spin outs..i was driving it lap after lap smoothly..i felt so stoked..as i expected it to be twitchy..no doubt he had the right tyres and used harder springs..i lapped a few dex210s ..they didnt know what hit them. Could put the powet down easily. I kept tellingthe modern racers how great it handled but many didnt beleive me...if only they were willing to drive it..
this is the car i wanna get to race in 2wd.

SFC K wrote:
Case part # 6565-001
Idler shaft and gear part # 6570-001
Top Shaft B4/T4 part # 9601

Jeff, you have 001 after the idler and case, I'm on a-main and only see them list 6565 and 6570, IS there a difference between those two as well?

I'm probably buying another car to run and want to just pick up the parts with it

abailey21 wrote:

SFC K wrote:
Case part # 6565-001
Idler shaft and gear part # 6570-001
Top Shaft B4/T4 part # 9601

Jeff, you have 001 after the idler and case, I'm on a-main and only see them list 6565 and 6570, IS there a difference between those two as well?

I'm probably buying another car to run and want to just pick up the parts with it

6565 is the right one. The -001 was listed on the invoice I received from AE when they sent out the replacement parts.

Also I'm short on time here at work, what size bearings for the steering??

abailey21 wrote:Also I'm short on time here at work, what size bearings for the steering??

I ordered the four 1/4 x 3/8 x 1/8 Flanged Metal bearings for the Steering rack from Avid for a buck each

I spent the last two hours reading over this thread after having come to many of the same conclusions on my own. It would be VERY nice if the information on kit issues were summarized on the first page. Just a suggestion.

My experience with my two worlds rere kits:
Transmission - Top shaft machined incorrectly. Associated sent replacement B4 shafts which were also incorrect. I just used the B4 top shaft spacer, drilled the hole out slightly and that fixed the issue. Using the spacer is a better approach than having the slipper plate seat on the shaft anyway.
Transmission - Idler gear had a VERY slight high spot. I ran it anyway, worked itself out after 20 min or so. I did not seem to have a case issue.
CVD's - As others have found, they will occasionally pop out of the out-drives. It's obvious to me that they are too short, but there's no simple fix that I have found. I added two additional spacers to limit down-travel (which kills me because the local track has big jumps) and it helped, but it's still not right.
Ball cups - complete junk. Despite cleaning the ball studs before assembly, you can remove them ONCE before they are too loose to stay on when the turn buckles are adjusted. Purchased new black ball cups and it's much better. I don't know why this is the case, as the dimensions are the same.
Screws - The 8-32 aluminum screws included for the steering are just sad. The vintage ones are better. I was bending/breaking the new ones left and right on any tiny bump. Replaced with ASC7775 steel screws and have not had an issue yet.
Steering bellcranks - Won't turn when the center nut is installed. Replaced the bushings with bearings and it's perfect.

White plastic colors - steering bellcranks, ball cups appear to have that awful glow-in-the-dark greenish tint. Trans case is also the grayish color and does not match the other white parts. So you end up with a car that's black, and three VERY noticeably different white colors.

pcrussell50 wrote:

mikea96 wrote:If the buggy is setup right it can be very competitive against the modern buggies and there are plenty of guys on here that race them!

This is especially true in road racing full sized cars at the amateur level. Good drivers in slower cars routinely spank less skilled drivers with the best cars money can buy.

-Peter

On the local/club level, absolutely. I have taken first place at the last two club races with my re-fit CE in 17.5 blinky. This becomes less and less true as the skill level increases though... once people aren't crashing or driving off the line every lap. I am still a bit faster in my (much heavier) B5M with the same electronics configuration, but driving the RC10 is so much fun I ignore the small handicap.

scr8p wrote:i will say this though, we all know what would turn it all around......

wide track front arms in white.

I think there is more demand for these than associated knows. I know I would buy a few sets off the bat if they released them.