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I can try, but probably not very well. It is quite a hodge podge, and hard to describe.

The gearbox is DR/RB-10, flipped around, and mounted to a printed adapter / bulkhead that ends up fastening to the original six 8-32 chassis holes. The susp arms are stock RC-10, but the arm mounts are stock style and printed to be wider. The arm mounts have been widened so I can run stock DR/RB-10 65mm CVAs. The outer hubs are DR/RB-10 narrowed down a bit to fit the RC-10 arms. Turnbuckle ballcups are DR/RB-10, but the turnbuckles themselves are some cheap Amazon guys (the shortest I could find and will probably be shortened). The shock tower is a lowered oval version from factoryworks.com The shocks are stock DR-10M, which is a car I didn't even know existed until I found those shocks.

That's really cool!...Sounds very similar to mine. I re-hash old parts, and fabricate the rest with a dremel. My gearbox is from an old T3 flipped, and I used a bulkhead from a T4 mounted in the back, with a fiberglass plate. The arms are from a 6-gear flipped backward and mounted with TC shocks. The front end is just a springer-type like an old pan car. I built it mostly because I'm a fan of it, and I couldn't justify a competition car for just playing.

My wife is a paper crafter, and I learned how to use hers when I found out you could cut vinyl. I use it for wood and plexiglass projects, too....I'm still an amateur. Yours are really killer!

More power for my RC10L

morrisey0 wrote: ↑Fri Mar 03, 2023 7:49 pm

Russ Winn wrote: ↑Fri Mar 03, 2023 3:26 pm Could you explain what you did to the gearbox/rear suspension setup? I'm curious...It almost looks like something I did with my sprint car.

I can try, but probably not very well. It is quite a hodge podge, and hard to describe.

The gearbox is DR/RB-10, flipped around, and mounted to a printed adapter / bulkhead that ends up fastening to the original six 8-32 chassis holes. The susp arms are stock RC-10, but the arm mounts are stock style and printed to be wider. The arm mounts have been widened so I can run stock DR/RB-10 65mm CVAs. The outer hubs are DR/RB-10 narrowed down a bit to fit the RC-10 arms. Turnbuckle ballcups are DR/RB-10, but the turnbuckles themselves are some cheap Amazon guys (the shortest I could find and will probably be shortened). The shock tower is a lowered oval version from factoryworks.com The shocks are stock DR-10M, which is a car I didn't even know existed until I found those shocks.

So far, everything on the chassis is AE, aftermarket made for AE (factoryworks, Andy's, etc), or printed at home.

BTW, your Sprint car looks great, and I am glad to see someone else getting into using a Cricut for RC. I have done LOADS of vinyl cutouts and sticker paper prints / cuts with my Cricut, and have had a blast with it! My FXMT was done with all vinyl cutouts:
FXMT 6.jpg

And all of the decals (outside of the small sponsor stickers) on my Round Tracker were printed and cut at home:
BRT COMPLETE 1.jpg

+1 on the Cricut - it's a great tool for making decals and complex paint masks. I use it for nearly every RC project now.
One example: the Kenworth and Texaco decals on this rig came from my Cricut.
The KW font is really small but it still looks pretty good.

Cleaning up!! Trying to figure out what to start up again as this project pile is starting to get out of control and I still have a RC10GX and 3d print yok project on the go. Might be time to pick one and pack the rest away lol

Toaster wrote: ↑Sat Mar 04, 2023 1:37 pm Cleaning up!! Trying to figure out what to start up again as this project pile is starting to get out of control and I still have a RC10GX and 3d print yok project on the go. Might be time to pick one and pack the rest away lol

I know the feeling

Spend the afternoon at the club with few people interested by CAD. I showed them how to use Fusion 360 and explained them how to model
- a simplified touring rim

- a simplified Tamiya TT01 rear hub carrier with 2 degrees angle...


I tried to explain them the good basis, so they go thru a good start for this. At the end, they were speaking about 3D printing and trying to get other small advise. A very good afternoon totally related to RC

XLR8 - You've really done an awesome job on the 18 wheeler! ...I still need a ton of practice on my cricut skills.

Buy a rainbow and comets RC10 body, get a TRX3 unicorn under it? The pics weren't great and I wasn't positive it was a TRX3, but it was worth going after. How often does a sweet, non-Andy's paint job like this show up?
.

Got the electronics pretty must sorted on the oval car. I have really gotten into tidying / shortening wiring, and I really like the results. This thing is close to tear down and rebuild phase.
Then finished up the printing on the first six parts, of 245, of my 3Dsets Landy build. Think I will order snow tires, because it may be winter again before this thing get done. For those that don't know print times, this pic is ~28 hours of printing. I think the next set up is close to two days.

Toaster wrote: ↑Sat Mar 04, 2023 1:37 pm Cleaning up!! Trying to figure out what to start up again as this project pile is starting to get out of control and I still have a RC10GX and 3d print yok project on the go. Might be time to pick one and pack the rest away lol

If only I could find a fiberglass top deck for one of those I'd be a happy man....

How's the steering angle work like that on the car in the middle

Reverse reverse engineered a front body mount for the roadkill JRXT off of measurements from the Mini JRXT. It's printing now, hopefully it works.

I called an end to my "Colin Chapman" experiment with my Storm 2000 oval racer. I ran the shocks very soft with loads of travel. I used Cougar wheels to lower it, but it still sat quite high for an oval racer. This naturally led to a lot of suspension movement which then required lots of static camber. I just wanted to see if it would work vs the usual carpet oval setup. I remember watching Chapman's Lotus Cortinas leaning way over and carrying the inside front wheel and yet going like stink! Conventional wisdom said it shouldn't work, but it did. It was fun to try, and fun to watch my truck move about on its suspension. It worked well and went quite fast. The downside is that it was hard to be consistent. It was more "on edge". It didn't give a lot of warning when it was about to let go. More correctly, it didn't give enough warning for a 53 old driver with bad eyes and precious little driving skill to catch. I ran it this way for 3 heats and 2 mains and was first in all of them. In 2, the competition was not very strong, but in 3 outings there were several fast Super Stock Slashes.

So now I have limiters in the shocks to lower it even further, and the Vari-shock pistons set with 2 holes on the right side and 3 holes open on the left (vs 4 open all around). With it lower and stiffer, it will probably need less camber. I will work on that tonight. I suppose in theory it should be more edgy this way, but if the overall grip is much higher, I won't have to run as close to the limit as before.

I probably have this all wrong, but what I think I am seeing on track is what I think I should see. My changes appear to have the desired effect and that is all that matters. Sometimes 2 wrongs do make a right!

I finally settled on some tires and wheels for the little Hopper. I still have the basher setup as well.
I picked up some Blitzer Beetle wheels on clearance. One of my trucks got some new tires, leaving these rears needing a home. The fronts are JC Racing mini pins that had a little more bulge than most of the others.

Where can I get one of those? It looks like a nice power upgrade for my Miata