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Are the crystals radio brand specific or Tx/Rx specific.

No, Your radio and reciever are both 75mhz, that's good. The problem is you have odd channels. When we say a matched set, we mean the same channel in both the radio and reciever. So, what you need is a set of 75mhz crystals in whatever channel you wish.

Does anyone else prefer a stick radio to a wheeled one? It’s my first time running one and it certainly has a different feel and as a fellow American the trigger seems to be in the wrong hand, does one gat past this?

For my money, I would much rather have a wheel radio or oftentimes called a pistol grip for a car. Save the sticks for a plane. Sounds like you're a lefthander, no? Your probably most comfortable steering with your left and throttle with your right. I believe they still make left-hand radios, but am not sure.

On the incorrect A-arm mounts do they get switched left to right or simply flipped.

Remove the e-clips and pull the hinge pin connecting the A arm to the suspension mount. Then unbolt the suspension mount from the chassis. It may be marked with an L or R. Re-orient both sides accordingly with the flat side against the chassis and the 'dished' or 'cuped' side up. Reattach your A arm and you should be good to go. Make sense?

Who makes a decently priced nut driver set or do you guys tend to fall back on the ole Craftsman socket set as I have been doing?

Any nut driver set will do. You can rely on a socket set to do the job, but in my experience, with a socket and ratchet you are able to put more tourque on the fasteners and you have to be careful not to damage anything. Nylon nuts, nylon parts, aluminum fasteners, etc can easily be damaged by over tightening. A driver gives you a better feel as to when a fastner is tight enough. You've got sockets, so my sugestion is to pick up a spinner handle http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00943393000P put your desired socket size on there and bingo, you got yourself a nut driver.

SmallScaleSmitty thank you for the strap link!

No problem. Happy to help.

SmallScaleSmitty Thank you again! I have picked up a crystal set ch 74 but I do have another question to put out there.

The DS has dust covers on the ball ends to prolong their life this seems innovative and smart to me, how come they never caught on on other cars?

Kcal wrote:SmallScaleSmitty Thank you again! I have picked up a crystal set ch 74 but I do have another question to put out there.

The DS has dust covers on the ball ends to prolong their life this seems innovative and smart to me, how come they never caught on on other cars?

Not sure if the dust covers are standard on the DS, or any other car for that matter, but it does make tons of sense. It's one of those little seemingly insignificant innovations that comes along and makes people think 'Huh, why didn't I think of that?'.

as far as the dust covers go..

they came stock on the factory team b4. well at least mine did. you can pic them up cheap over on towerhobbies.

i am using them on my builds since i don't really see any downsides to using them.

SmallScaleSmitty wrote:

Kcal wrote:SmallScaleSmitty Thank you again! I have picked up a crystal set ch 74 but I do have another question to put out there.

The DS has dust covers on the ball ends to prolong their life this seems innovative and smart to me, how come they never caught on on other cars?

Not sure if the dust covers are standard on the DS, or any other car for that matter, but it does make tons of sense. It's one of those little seemingly insignificant innovations that comes along and makes people think 'Huh, why didn't I think of that?'.

Mine came stock with the dust covers.

Not sure if they were much use on an on-road car, but they seemed to be a great idea for the off road stuff.

"Not sure if the dust covers are standard on the DS, or any other car for that matter, but it does make tons of sense. It's one of those little seemingly insignificant innovations that comes along and makes people think 'Huh, why didn't I think of that?'"

According to the instructions it would seem that they are standard on both DS models, a neat piece of kit for sure as they add no weight and are cheap insurance.

I was also wondering besides ball bearings were there any differences in the two models, I have the bearing one that included a special labeled DS motor but I am putting together a bearing list for an order for AVID as we speak.

1) For a complete set of ball bearings for the DS I have come up with a total of 16 listed below by size, if I have missed any I would greatly appreciate it being pointed out to me:

2 x 5/32 X 5/16
2 x 3/8 X 5/8
12 x 3/8 X 3/16 all unflanged

2) When changing the rx and tx crystals I found out I did in fact have a matched set the tx holder just had bad information on it, yet when I "tested" the car before I took it apart it was really glitchy any thing to normally look at or check as a potential cause? The tx batteries were brand new Duracell's and there was no corrosion in the battery compartment and the power gauge showed full power.

3) My car does not have the slipper assembly, is this a necessary, required, or useful upgrade?

4) I have the aluminum parts all cleaned up but due to a bad cell(s) some of the anodizing got messed up, besides a sharpie on the easy side and re-anodizing on the difficult side is there a mid-ground that will look good? (pics below)

5) When using chassis protector film do you ideally put it on before assembly and run the screws through it or would you put it after and cover the screws as well as the entire bottom of the pan?

Kcal wrote: 5) When using chassis protector film do you ideally put it on before assembly and run the screws through it or would you put it after and cover the screws as well as the entire bottom of the pan?

When I have done this, I would cover the screws then cut around the screw head with a new x-acto blade. If you are using the really thick 3m material it is tough, but do-able.

Kcal wrote:2) When changing the rx and tx crystals I found out I did in fact have a matched set the tx holder just had bad information on it, yet when I "tested" the car before I took it apart it was really glitchy any thing to normally look at or check as a potential cause? The tx batteries were brand new Duracell's and there was no corrosion in the battery compartment and the power gauge showed full power.

Could be a damaged crystal. Try a new crystal set. I just learned that the hard way with 12L4, see my 'I'm stumped' thread in the tech forum.

As for the chassis, I wouldn't bother with the sharpie fix. It'll
never match and it'll stick out like a sore thumb. If you want it to look factory original, you're better off reannodizing or replacing it altogether. If you're not worried about looking stock, get one or two of the largest sheets of carbon fiber decal material you can find and cover the whole thing up.

Could be a damaged crystal. Try a new crystal set. I just learned that the hard way with 12L4, see my 'I'm stumped' thread in the tech forum.

Bummer, I hope you have it sorted out now I will test the new crystals as soon as I am able. The carbon fiber sticker idea is kind of neat sounding I may have to see what the LHS has I could just do the inside or the “floor” hmmm Thanks!

Gregm Thank you as well I had wondered what was easiset and best.

Kcal wrote:The carbon fiber sticker idea is kind of neat sounding I may have to see what the LHS has I could just do the inside or the “floor” hmmm Thanks!

Here's what Tower has. 8.5" x 11" sheets. Could probably get away with just one sheet if you only did the floor from the front of the chassis to where the battery cup and tranny mount.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0097p?CATEGORY=CH&FVSEARCH=CARBON+FIBER++

Personally, I wouldn't worry about the blemish on the inside of the tub if you plan on running it. Do your best to stick the Esc over the spot and put a body on her and you'll never notice it. (Or find a large decal to slap over it) On a good note, the underside of the chassis is near perfect.

Here is a link to my DS. There is a link there for info about a TC wheel and tire conversion. I believe the 190mm bodies fit best with this conversion. If you are using OE DS wheels and tires, probably go with the 200mm. Go with the HPI parts for the conversion instead of the Traxxas.

http://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.asp?cid=83370&sid=22001

http://rc10.com/racerhub/techhelp/dswheels.htm

You will definetly want a slipper option on this car. It will make it more forgiving to drive. I believe the original stealth slipper parts are getting hard to find. Opt for the B4 slipper instead. It has 2 friction discs instead of just 1.

Hey did you get the radio problem fixed if so what was the problem?