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Looking good.

I ran one of those gaskets in my 10T for most of the time I raced it, and it's still in there. I can't recall who made it, though.

ETA Racing made the gasket, I just saw it in the scans section in an RCCA RC10 project.

It cleaned up pretty easily, I just used some dish soap. The rest of the car I used Simple Green and a toothbrush, I wasn't trying to make it perfect, just get the dirt off the white parts.

I have a 19 turn and an SC10 RTR esc laying around, might take it for a spin tomorrow.

is that gasket anything special i got one too i thought it was associated just was torn/lost easily

Nothing special, it was a $3 part when it was new. It's just a nice little part

markt311 wrote:I went out to the track to do some testing on my VONATS buggy tonight, I picked this car up from the track owner. He's got a bunch of old cars in his shop, the common thread of them all is they are all dirty.

He has a nice gold tub RC10 that has vintage dirt on it as well. Pulled it off the track I'm guessing in 1990 and stored it in the kit box. Hasn't touched it since. He refuses to clean the dirt off...

I imagine we could talk him into running it again in the near future.....

A little update on my Dual Sport, I went down to the track today to help out with a 2.4 hour scale enduro for the vintage trans am guys. That was a crazy race in itself. 8 teams of 3 drivers running nonstop for close to 2 1/2 hours. The winning team ran 500 laps, and I got the honor of announcing the almost the whole thing. Let's just say I have no voice left after today (some say it's a good thing)


SOOO, in the 2 hour break we had between qualifying and the enduro I put the DS on track for a couple of runs. After trimming the body a little bit and adjusting the slipper clutch the old girl actually ran pretty well. If I were going to run this car more it would definately need some suspension work, it pushed really bad and kept lifting and spinning the inside rear tire. But it was a blast taking it around the track. I think it will go back on the shelf for now and be a base for a 10T build later on down the road for next year's VONATS.

markt311 wrote:This one has some interesting parts on it, I think I'm going to get some HPI trans am tires to try out once I get it cleaned up and roadworthy.

Cool car Mark.

What is the story with the HPI tires? Are they the same size as the original DS tires? Will the HPI wheels work on the DS? I have a NDS I have been wanting to build, finding a nice set of wheels is what's stopping me. It will be a runner, so I am reluctant to fork over the cash for a nice set of original DS wheels, and I don't want foam. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_info.php/cPath/1_83_556/products_id/30317/n/HPI-31mm-Vintage-Racing-Tire-D-Compound-2
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_info.php/cPath/1_83_556/products_id/30316/n/HPI-26mm-Vintage-Racing-Tire-D-Compound-2
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_info.php/cPath/1_83_552/products_id/30311/n/HPI-26mm-Vintage-5-Spoke-Wheel-Black-2-0mm-Offset
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_info.php/cPath/1_83_552/products_id/30314/n/HPI-31mm-Vintage-5-Spoke-Wheel-Black-2-6mm-Offset

I was looking for a way to put some new tires and wheels on my DS since the ones it came with are pretty bald, and it's hard to find DS wheels.

The HPI tires aren't exactly the same size as the DS tires, but they're really close.

Then you need to find a way to mount the sedan wheels, which use a 12mm hex drive. I found this tip on Associated's website http://67.199.85.166/resources/resources.php?page=dswheels

Then you get some HPI adapters for the rear, like these
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXN057&P=7

For the front, I haven't decided how to convert to the hex yet. I'll probably get some RS4 front uprights, spindles, and axles. I might look at Kyosho RB5 front spindles too though.

i had a ds back when they first arrived. i loved them.
i talked with topper quite a bit while he was coming up with that conversion to hex hubs. at the time associated had not yet made the tc3.
after the tc3 was in production i called associated to talk to topper, but unfortunately topper had changed jobs. and i couldn't find anyone to answer my ds questions.
so my unanswered question was, "couldn't a ds owner use tc3, (or tc4, or tc5) front castor blocks (with maybe some light filing to get them to fit ds front arms), steering knuckles, and just the stub of the front cvd axle, and associated hex adapters, to get 4wd touring car wheels onto their ds?" then the car would remain all associated parts. and it seems simpler than what is posted on their website.
if your not worried about realistic wheels you could almost bolt customworks wheels directly onto a ds. the fronts fit without any mods. the rears would hit the ear on the hub carrier and would need a washer behind the axle nut to tighten up fully. the hub's ear could be trimmed, or the hub could be replaces with a customworks rear hub, which has the same diminsions as the stock ds hub but no ear. customworks has foams and rubber wheels and tires.

olderacer wrote:i had a ds back when they first arrived. i loved them.
i talked with topper quite a bit while he was coming up with that conversion to hex hubs. at the time associated had not yet made the tc3.
after the tc3 was in production i called associated to talk to topper, but unfortunately topper had changed jobs. and i couldn't find anyone to answer my ds questions.
so my unanswered question was, "couldn't a ds owner use tc3, (or tc4, or tc5) front castor blocks (with maybe some light filing to get them to fit ds front arms), steering knuckles, and just the stub of the front cvd axle, and associated hex adapters, to get 4wd touring car wheels onto their ds?" then the car would remain all associated parts. and it seems simpler than what is posted on their website.
if your not worried about realistic wheels you could almost bolt customworks wheels directly onto a ds. the fronts fit without any mods. the rears would hit the ear on the hub carrier and would need a washer behind the axle nut to tighten up fully. the hub's ear could be trimmed, or the hub could be replaces with a customworks rear hub, which has the same diminsions as the stock ds hub but no ear. customworks has foams and rubber wheels and tires.

That's a better idea, to be honest I haven't done much with this car since I got it besides clean it up a little and take 2 runs on the carpet track with it. I've been busy packing the house up for moving this weekend and racing offroad in the spare time. I'm not sure I'm even going to do the touring car wheel conversion. The local track is putting in a dirt oval and this car might get converted to a late model or EDM, depending on which class takes off. If I convert it to an Oval car, I'll just order some of Dynotech's arms and go that route.

if you take the ds dirtoval i'd use the customworks wheels.
if you want a latemodel body for the ds i have a painted 1 you can have, just pay shipping and it's yours. it's never been on a track, just the shelf. already has the bodymount holes & is trimmed.
i think it's a parma body, i can't remember.

the problem with the tc3,4,5 caster blocks is that the pivot point is on the outside of the block, not the inside, you would have to chop out alot of the arm to get it to fit.

the traxxas parts, from caster block to outer hex is the simplest, easiest to get now. the rear adapter from HPI is still the simplest rear option, trimming off the outer round part.

Thanks for the info.

I'm not very keen on doing the conversion thing. I guess I am too picky, but for now I will just keep my eyes open.