RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

62 bugzilla wrote:Both of them look great and I'm about to dye rite some stuff and I hope it comes out looking as good as those.

I dyed all my original RC10T stuff black after a few years, and diluted the dye too much so they came out purple! Then I dyed them again later and they were much better. Then when the stuff got scratched you could see the white coming through. I wanted to try using gray dye.

Litespeed used to sell dye, and they showed some cool designs in their old ads; they taped down the middle of the part and dyed one side, flipped it over and dyed the other a different color and got a tri-color design. Guys used to put letter cut-outs on their lacrosse stick heads and dye them, then peel off the stickers and the letters would remain white.

What's the secret on colored dye. Every time I try to dye a color other than black it comes out uneven or to dark. For example I dyed the lights on the body Iam going to use . I used yellow rit dye for the covers and wanted to use KC decals. Turned out orange , and well so much for the KC decal plan.

Well, dye is a funny thing. It will react differently with different materials and the length of time you leave it in has an imact as well. The arms on my Kyosho Pro-X were supposed to come out blue but they ended up a teal color instead. They were badly yellowed so that might have influenced the color. I may try to redye them at some point but for now I'm living with it. By the way - those red light covers look great!

You just have to keep checking on the parts; the longer you leave them in the darker they will get. It can be tricky to match parts from one session to another. Black is obviously the easiest to dye just because the longer you leave it in, the darker it gets. Don't dilute the dye too much either.

The 'Japanese' parts, Kyosho and Tamiya, are usually more plastic than nylon, which doesn't always dye very well, and sometimes it warps.

I like the vintage paint job on that body. dyeing is an art especially if you have to match something. I use rit dye with a pinch of salt in the water. I just keep stirring and checking. Then pull it out right on time.

shodog thanks for the coment on the body. It is a racer 8838 body. Just using my lights. Racer 8838's bodies are a little pricey but well worth it as far as quality of the finished product.

Finished the trans . Full ball bearings including the outdrives.

Finished.

Can you tell me what knobby front tires those are? Looks like they match the rears pretty good. Sweet looking car by the way, you really got a great find there.

Tires are TMS part# 973. I have never heard of them myself. Pcked them up on ebay.