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I have stripped the chassis down and cleaned up the parts. I have new stuff coming in, and am waiting for a few more items. I plan on using a B4 top shaft and slipper on the old stealth. Assembly will start shortly. I will also include a parts list of everything I used on this build.

The gear cover is a B2 RPM piece. Simply redrilled the bottom hole to fit the older motor plate.

Finally got off my butt and got somthing done on this build. I went through the tranny. Rebuilt the diff, cleaned out the bearings, and installed the B4 slipper assy. Also got the CVD's built. Did my regular 400/800 grit treatment on the diff rings and thrust washers.
I am using a Trinity 13.5 BL motor in this car. I have found that the older RC10's do really well with this wind. 17.5 seems a little slow compared to the 10.5 B4's we run against, and 10.5 would just make it push a lot. Plenty of punch and top end with the 13.5. I didn't go deep into taking pics of the tranny rebuild. Most everybody here can do this blindfolded. I just wanted to show that the B4 slipper will work perfectly with the 2.25:1 stealth.

Here is my parts list so far. (minus donor parts from the 10t) Some stuff didn't need to be purchased, but I figure now is a good time to replace things like the diff lock nut and thrust bearing balls, etc. All p/n's are AE unless otherwise noted.

Tranny:
6574 thrust balls
6582 diff spring
6575 diff bolt and nut
6566 felt (from my stash)
9601 B4 top shaft (I bought 9601, 9603, 9604, 9605, 9651, and 6629 as a diff lot off of ebay for $8)
9603 B4 slipper pad
9604 B4 slipper hub (2)
9605 B4 slipper spring
9651 B4 81t spur gear
6629 lock nut
7211 Custom works CVD rebuild kit (this and the next 2 purchased seperately is cheaper than buying the whole CVD set)
9597 CVD B4 axle bones
9598 CVD B4 axles
9608 B4 rear axle spacer
80082 RPM B4 gear cover

Chassis:
6334 Battery cups (donor cups were hacked up)
7531 RC10GT servo saver (7531, 7306, and 9155 were purchased to replicate aeiou's bellcrank setup) http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=38&t=8782&hilit=steering
7306 noseplate screw set
9155 B2 servo saver
70722 RPM bumper

Suspension:
6262 (2 pair) 1.65" turnbuckles
6263 (1 pair) 2.06" turnbuckles
6443 new AE shock bleeder caps
6465 piston set
6471 shock rod ends (these will go on the steering turnbuckle outer ends)
6478 Silver R springs
7230 B4 ball cups
7426 Black truck front springs
70272 RPM rear RC10T hubs
(4) 1/2" X 3/16" bearings from Avid for the above hubs
2700 (2) Dynotech Klein rear a-arm http://dynotech-racing.com/partList.php?carID=K
2701 (2) Dynotech Klein front a-arm

Looking good Giles!!
What did you use to strip the ano? Are you going to refinish it with something else?

Thanks for the parts list, I may in the future convert my 10t to a buggy

Get to work on that thing!

I haven't stripped any anodizing, not sure which part you are referring to?

The front end and steering rack is together, as well as the tranny being bolted in. I will try and snap some shots tonite.

Sorry my bad, my old eyes are playin' tricks on me. At first glance it looks like it's bare aluminum in the pics

Or everything is painted gold???

Brandon G wrote:
Tranny:
9601 B4 top shaft (I bought 9601, 9603, 9604, 9605, 9651, and 6629 as a diff lot off of ebay for $8)
9603 B4 slipper pad
9604 B4 slipper hub (2)
9605 B4 slipper spring
9651 B4 81t spur gear
6629 lock nut

Brandon,

Couple of quick questions.... are the above items all thats needed to convert the stealth tranny to run a B4 slipper, are any other parts needed?? Also if I was to fit the truck rear shock mount onto my buggy would this work with my standard buggy rear shocks or do you need to run longer ones (presumably truck shocks)?

Yup, those are all the parts you need for the slipper conversion.

I ran the RC10T 1.32" rear shocks on mine, but it has 3 travel limiters in each shock. You should be able to run the buggy rears with no problem.

Some added pics...

Replaced the stock aluminum shock caps with the bleeders. Definetely the way to go with AE shocks.

Looks like Kim is going to have a pretty nice race car!

Brandon G wrote:Yup, those are all the parts you need for the slipper conversion.

I ran the RC10T 1.32" rear shocks on mine, but it has 3 travel limiters in each shock. You should be able to run the buggy rears with no problem.

Thanks Brandon - thats great info Might make a call to fibrelite & order a truck rear shock tower. I'm re-building a worlds car but the rear tower had de-laminated. I like the look of the truck tower & it can enable lower mounting for the shell

Your car is looking great! So crisp! I think anyone wanting to build a competitive Ali tubbed RC10 to run against the modern cars would do no better than to follow your recipe as described here......

P.S; I got the Losi shell ok - came last Saturday Everything as you described.... but I wasn't expecting the wing aswell! Thank you

This car is pretty much ready to run now. All I need to do is throw some paint on it and glue the tires and it's ready. The body is an A&L Interceptor.

I opted for the B4 gearcover to accommodate the longer slipper shaft. The B2 worked, but I would have to keep the adjuster button removed for clearance.The B4 works fine, just had to drill and tap another hole in the motor plate.

I am running #1 pistons in all 4 shocks. 35wt Losi oil in front, 50wt Losi oil in the rear. Soft J concepts Double Dee's work perfect as the rear tire. Anything soft compound and ribbed for the front.

I hate my camera.



I will be getting a new one when I get my tax refund this year.

Great finished product!

ED

Look s good Brandon G, the body looks killer.

thanks Brandon