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It's been a looong time since I've had the stock chassis, but I believe the servo is held on by tape and not mounts of any kind.

the servo is just tapes in it works fine most people just drill and mount it. what ever you want

yep thats right.per the manual you were to just double side tape the servo to the chassis.back in the day when we raced those lots of guys
would just shoe goo the servo or some would drill 2 hole on each side of the servo so you could run a zip-tie around it.then the jammin kit came along...
after that guy would just use some kind of servo mount and drill the chassis to fit them.you see the problem with only the tape is that your servo would
move a little and the vehicule would untrim itself,or worst during a race the thing would unstuck itself and you would lost steering altogeter.ah memories...

Ive never had that happen but I have seen it, I clean the chassis with motor or Carb spray and only use good servo tape and it holds fine. buit if the chassis has holes I would bolt it I did on my JRX2.

There aren't any holes in the chassis but it's certainly not mint. I think I'll be drilling a pair to mount the servo instead of taping it down. Thanks guys!

it wont hurt anything and you know it wont fall off

adam lancia wrote:There aren't any holes in the chassis but it's certainly not mint. I think I'll be drilling a pair to mount the servo instead of taping it down. Thanks guys!

Actually, you can get away with just one steering block (rear...near to the battery cup). I'm trying to remember why I didn't use one for the front...I think it may have been a space issue.

I'll have to check again since my lxt is due for a rebuild.

Regards,
highwayracer

highwayracer wrote:

adam lancia wrote:There aren't any holes in the chassis but it's certainly not mint. I think I'll be drilling a pair to mount the servo instead of taping it down. Thanks guys!

Actually, you can get away with just one steering block (rear...near to the battery cup). I'm trying to remember why I didn't use one for the front...I think it may have been a space issue.

I'll have to check again since my lxt is due for a rebuild.

Regards,
highwayracer

Hhhhmmmm, interesting idea. Pics please

I used the Blue Aluminum ones from a T4 on mine their small enough to fit both

Just a short update a long time in the making.

I picked up the Jammin' servo mount and brace set and a wheelbase extension kit (thanks Paul!) but the truck is still sitting in very dirty pieces. I should hopefully get a little time this weekend and on the weekend to start on it but a few more questions have come to mind in the mean time.

Are there any tricks to getting the LRM differential smooth? I've never had any luck with a differential that uses Belleville washers but I'd like to give the transmission a chance, if only because it's got an A&L Power Clutch on it

I think I'm going to give the stock sliders a chance too, but in case I'm not digging them, could someone post the correct part number for the MIP axles? I've got the bones already, I just need the axles. Or, is there a combination of new rear hubs/CVD's that would allow me to use newer, more readily available parts?

I'm going to do a little digging through the Losi section here and have a look at the various LXT's to see if there's any information there to be had. In the mean time, if anyone has any information to ass, I'd greatly appreciate it! Thanks!

I just rebuilt mt JRXT LRM diff. Use the procedure I added to this thread, it works great!

http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=38&t=16770&hilit=figure

Buy some new carbide diff balls and new thrust balls and it'll make your life easier. Make sure to throw a new 4-40 locknut in there as well.

Gotcha, so the standard steps to a nice smooth diff then As long as there aren't any secrets I'm missing out on by not having any Losi experience. Thanks Brandon!

If your looking for another roller for some spare parts and a XX retro fit trans. Here are some pics of what i have. Everything is included except the electronics. The only problems it has is the front body mount needs to be replaced and the battery hold down strap and the chassis has been cut to accept 7 cells. I think that I have some odds and ends that are not pictured. If you have any questions you can just PM me.

Here are some progress pics of my LXT (finally!!!). I could have it all slapped together but I need a right rear arm to get it completely together. I am working on getting several of those though, hopefully soon. Enjoy!