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. Yes! Considering the tracks I ran on during that era were unbelievibly high bite, I wish I had a better knowledge of chassis dynamics then. If memory serves, the rear toe blocks could be swaped (left to right) to help remove most of it though. -Jeff

I'm suprised nobody noticed that yet Reggie, the antisquat was the only reason I was going to rework the rear end. The front seems pretty solid, but I haven't really focused on that part yet. I have to set smaller goals to keep this project moving forward.

Now I need to find someone with mill access or get the router piece for my dremel, I've never worked with delrin before, whats the best way to cut it without melting it?

Hey, unless you try some off the wall stuff--you never really know what can happen. You should see the hinge pins on the front end that I'm re-designing on my DO cars.


I think it will work , or hope anyway.

Well, I think the reason I designed it with that much anti-squat was because of the amount I had been running on my Schumacher XLS and subsiquent cars (up until the procat) which I think is the way they were run back then . I took a look at my 1990 nats car (needs a re-build badly), and noticed that it had about as much if not more than this 2wd does. I can only assume this is where the inspiration came from. Either that or it was for suspension arm clearance . I have no real recollection as it was so long ago. -Jeff

markt311 wrote: Now I need to find someone with mill access or get the router piece for my dremel, I've never worked with delrin before, whats the best way to cut it without melting it?

Delrin needs to be cut with the right tool to get a "chipping" action since you will be dry cutting, the only times you will really "melt or gall" it is if you have a dull tool creating too much friction, or hover in one area too long. Any new end mill bit, or 4 flute will work--but the feed speed, depth and direction the tool is traveling all play a part. As a raw material goes, it's really easy to work with, just takes a little practice to get it right, and when you are done, run a new xacto blade across the edges (not cutting, the cutting edge back) to clean up the finished part. Make sure to get ask for white delrin if that's what you want, otherwise you will get black by default-

markt311 wrote:gotta go look through the scans section real quick


Edit: found it http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=8371

That's an interisting car too, but not the same.

I'm starting to feel an urge to build a buggy with truck arms... but first finnish the current project

I reversed the arm mounts and WA LA 3 degrees of antisquat!

Now it's completly torn down for a deep cleaning while I wait for some parts and materials to arrive.

Enjoy!

Great project. Are there any standard driveshafts that will fit it? I ask because that was a major blocking point in a project I was doing a few years ago. It was poor planning on my part where as this was probably a lot more well thought out. I know Hetmanski, or something like that from RCCA used graphite arrow shafts to make his driveshafts on his scratch monster build. That might be an option for you if you need custom length dogbones. Flex shouldn't be too bad for what they cost. If I remember right from when I checked some hunting sites they're pretty pricey. Anyway, just a thought. Nice project.

Originally I used long YZ-10 driveshafts and hubs. I am sure other setups can be found though. -Jeff

Just stumbled onto this one. Any updates or progress to report?? Love to see it through to some on-track pictures!

Mark, you have made some progress since the last I saw. What exactly do you need milled? Shoot me a PM when you get a chance. I may be able to help you out.

Jake

Jake, I'll get in touch with you soon, I have some ideas but right now it is still just torn down and waiting on me.