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Grumbles wrote:

scr8p wrote:doug's build has a lot of good pics.............

http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=302

A bit too much to read for tonight, but a must read for tomorrow. I took a quick look through the pics and in one of the pics I'm seeing a black adapter between rear axle hub and the rim. Maybe Tizeye will be willing to snap a pic before he no longer has it. Thanks

sorry bud looks like the arms not adaptor..

Hey Grumbles, how about a picture of your car, it might help us help you. I will post a picture of the hub, but if you are having alignment problems, I would be looking at the chassis, mounts as Scr8p said, or maybe axles?

I was really hoping to have more information on this company surface. I know that they also made drag cars, and I have a few RC10L parts, but what was the complete product line? Anyone. . . . . . . please?

that was an interesting thread about that car 'the bird'. I ended up with a very eerily similar car by the time I had it worked out to my liking. I still have to clean the ancient dirt off of it, but I have to get some pics up.

I used a standard composite craft chassis, and made small adapters to add the rear arms. I have fluorescent green rc10 wheels with losi x patterns on it, and don't beleive there are any binding or intereference issues, but I have to see how I mounted the shocks. I used Losi shocks in my build.

these arms are actually what got me back into looking at these cars after many years of just sitting. I had one of them crack on me, and by pure luck, I happened on a new set on ebay a few years ago. I got them super cheap, so I blew the huge pile of dust off the car and put it back together.

Thanks RC10Eh. I'll post a pic when I get home, but my rear arm and hub look identical to what you've posted. My one and only issue is that the wheel is hitting the shock and spring. I've tried wheels from a buggy, a T, and a T2 and all do the same thing. That's why I thought there had to be some form of an adapter to space the wheel further away. What wheels are you running on yours? Unless there is a separate shock mount that bolts to the arm. Well Lmk.

Thanks everybody.

I'm also rebuilding my trailing arm car. For rear wheels, you can use the B2/B3 wheel without any problems. Thunder Tiger sells them now under their own label. If you need more pics, I can post some of mine tomorrow. I'm headed to our local indoor track tomorrow to RACE it. Yep, no shelf queen here, it's going to run just like it did from 1987-1990.

JHarris wrote:I'm also rebuilding my trailing arm car. For rear wheels, you can use the B2/B3 wheel without any problems. Thunder Tiger sells them now under their own label. If you need more pics, I can post some of mine tomorrow. I'm headed to our local indoor track tomorrow to RACE it. Yep, no shelf queen here, it's going to run just like it did from 1987-1990.

May I ask if this is this a problem you've experienced in the past?

Sorry, I really appreciate the help, but I rushed the pics and they aren't as good as I'd like. I'll have a new set up tomorrow.

I took a look at my car, I re-drilled the shock tower to move the upper shock points inboard, around 1/2". I can get the exact dimensions if you'd like.

I'd like to see the interference you mention. Any interference I've ever seen on a Houge car was either from an extra wide tire that wasn't standard or improper rear shock mounting location. Good luck on the Houge, it's my favorite flavor of aftermarket RC10 mods.

First 2 pics are different angles trying to show the RC10T tire hitting the arm and the wheel touching the shock. The second 2 aren't so good but may show something the first two don't. One thing that crossed my mind is thet the arms may be on the wrong side. Do they look mounted correctly? Lmk.

problems:

1) don't try to use 10t rims on something designed for a buggy rim. if you want to use a truck rim, you need to use something actually designed for use on an rc10.

2) i can't see how the top of your shocks are mounted. but it seems to me that you have them mounted on a&l shock mounts. take them off. then mount the shocks on the backside of the shock tower. the shock should be pretty much vertical when looking at it from the side.

3) is the houge arm and a&l arm the same? i bring that up only because you have houge arms on a&l mounts. that could screw up the whole geometry of the rear suspension. never mind dogbone issues.

4) i also see the buggy rims your trying to fit on the car are the 3 piece 2.0 rims. sometimes the angled design of the inner piece interfiers with suspension components. you'll have to use a 1 piece rear rim.

I have not had any problems with tire rub on my car. The top of the shocks are laid over as was previously described. Mine however, are mounted on the front of the shock tower. Also, something you can do when you get it all worked out for your bottom mount- Take your 4/40 screw and dremel the head almost all the way off (and flat). Notch it like a slotted screw and run it through the arm from the back. Then you put the bottom of the shock on the screw and secure with a lock nut. This will prevent the screw from pulling out of the plastic arm. The head has to be cut down for this to work though. Otherwise it will hit your stub axle (CVD).

like Scr8p said, you have a bunch of incompatabilites going on there. The easy way out is to use A&L arms, since you already have the arm and shock mounts. I don't know if the truck wheels will work with the A&L stuff though.

or, alternately, use the houge arm mounts, and take off the A&L shock mounts. Stick with buggies wheels.

Thanks for all the info. I'm a little late to the hobby and don't really know a whole heck of a lot about the Houge or A&L stuff. I took for granted that what was on the chassis was also Houge, so the mismatched parts explains the problems I'm having. I'll move the shocks outward onto the tower and see how that goes, but Im sure I'll have to pick one or the other. If it's possible could someone post a pic of an original Houge setup and one with an A&L so I can see what components I need to change.

Thanks again!