RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

klavy69 wrote: let us know how the parts work out for you...as far as durability anyway. Not plugging his parts but a 'kinda curious wanted to know for myself type thing'
I'm likin the whole project. More inspiration to finish up something here Todd

Thanks Todd.

The rear suspension blocks are on their way. I didn't go for the suspension arms (yet )-- I'll give a full report on them when they came in!

Thats an awesome buggy Definitely looks like it would be some fun. Makes me want to start looking into building something Frankenstein. When it comes down to it RC cars were made to just have fun. I'm new here and its nice seeing some of the wild ideas that people are coming up with that work

The Proline Sand Paws came in today.....

now this thing accelerates in the melting snow faster than it does in the grass!!!

It literally hits a certain speed then seems to 'get-on-plane' like a boat-- then it really starts movin'! The front tires seem to barely touch the ground-- they kind of steer like rudders...

I was smiling for atleast an hour after that-- yeah, I looked just like this--->

EDIT for pics!

yeah-- it looks funny with all the negative backspacing in the rims, but they are all I had 'in stock' (set of vintage pro-line rims that allowed for Blackfoot tires on the RC-10). Not to mention it pushes like crazy in the turns. I have a set of more desirable backspaced hex-drive rims on the way...

looks cool... id go for a better fiting body .. the stock rc10 bodies seem to be made to fit with the tower in stock location..

longboardnj wrote:looks cool... id go for a better fiting body .. the stock rc10 bodies seem to be made to fit with the tower in stock location..

I agree--

I'm still not settled on the body thing- I'd like to try the S-10 body I have, just have to prepare for heavy fender-well trimming!



here are pics of the aluminum rear suspension mounts-- very sweet! They fit perfectly, look great, and will last forever!

They also seem to allow for more shaft clearance at full droop-- thus further preventing the dogbone from forcing itself out of the outdrive.

Well, all the snow is gone and in the 'grass' I am getting the flip-over-when-I-punch-it-at-half-speed syndrome. I think the 2.2 paddles with the gear ratio put me in a final drive ratio that corresponds perfectly with the brushless-- whatever it is-- it is a cool problem to have!

in other news-- I have a bunch of parts coming, via ebay-- including a parts RC10T. When will the madness end?

When will the madness end?

It will never end...

You should be used to that, I see you own a Jeep


ED

Jeep-Power wrote:When will the madness end?

Hopefully never

Gold rear mount I need a set of those

soniccj5 wrote:
It will never end...

You should be used to that, I see you own a Jeep


ED

make that three!









yeah-- the gold mounts are sweet-- I wish the entire car was made out of that stuff!



`

I only have 1.

ED

soniccj5 wrote:I only have 1.



ED

nice '7!

Got the positive backspacing rims on - the trouble is that they are a little too deep & hit the upper link at full compression & the lower shock mount at full droop. I'm going to attempt some custom drive hexes to move it out a touch--

Looks way narrow now. I'm anxious to see how it tracks/steers.





The 10T in today-- it's a bit rough around the edges...








I'm curious to see what all this morphs into next...


`

The graphite chassis / mid motor stealth setup have been merged with the RC10T suspension-- wide & stable! I took notes on Vintage AE's Truggy build & have come up with something similar.




I had it out at the baseball field yesterday (finally dried out!) & man this thing cooks! It literally cooked the slipper/ spur gear right off -- melted, warped & stripped it clean!





I recently picked up a set of 2S 4200Mah 40C Thunderpower hardpacks. I don't know if it is the batteries, but man this thing has punch! I got about one & a half batteries through it before the meltdown. While it was running, I was amazed by the power. It will sometimes pull wheelies, when punching it, at 3/4 throttle! I can't imagine how it will be on a 3S battery-- literally, too fast, I'm sure.

In an effort to keep the front end down, I have moved the battery to the forward most cross-mounted position. It doesn't seem to help...



I'm going to do the late-model slipper conversion-- here's the thread The new slippers certainly look like they were designed to handle the heat/torque of modern brusless/Liop power. I have a parts B4 trans here that I'm going to pirate.

pics to come...

Some detail shots...

rear end with the new home-built heat sink on a spare scratched Associated black motor plate. With the warmer weather & taller rear tires, the motor is getting fairly warm.



Notice the home-made 'bridge' up-top of the shock tower-- this was a result of snapping off the first-try shock tower, after a few minutes of running-- it's a little hack, but works well. I hope to fab up a custom 'full loop' tower sooner-or-later. This will do for now.


With mounting the 10T front end on the TQ chassis-- I couldn't bring myself to cut off the OEM 'short-arm' mounting holes. I worked around this by shimming a 3/16 slab of polycarbonate between the carbon fiber &the 10T bulkhead. I did have to drill new holes for the 10T mount...

looks better with the 10t arms and probably handles better too. I am looking at your thread now for inspiration on a mid-motor RC10, glad my thread could help you out. How does the mid-motor handle compared to the rear mount? I have a mid-motor Kyosho Raider, which has a shorter wheel base than the RC10 and cant keep a very straight line. Could just be the driver