RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

For mine it is off road. No on road or oval here!!! I will post better pics of the car and list the set up mine has as soon as I get time. You guys PM'ing me about parts from the stash is taking up the majority of my time, although I don't mind. Once that slows down though I will update this with my set up, not to say that it is the greatest thing out there it just works for me. I also have a couple other builds that I plan to share in the RC10 buggy forum that I am working on now. They include custom anodized cars and parts and look pretty cool. Eventually I will also post pics of the B4 and Yokomo I ran at the 2003 worlds.

Very Cool J, looking forward to seeing all the cars.

Here's a few more pics of the setup I currently run. Rather than go into every last detail, this should allow anyone to see where everything is and how many washers are under each ballstud, if any. I run #1 pistons in the front with 35wt oil and #2 pistons in the rear with 25wt oil. I also run the battery all the way back with -1 degree camber all the way around and .5 degree toe in. This set up has worked for me on just about every track, but works especially well on a high bite blue groove track. I ran it on a hard pack track with sand on the top with no issues too.

So Jeff,
So what is the clip on the rear spring for?

What type of Velcro did you use? Did you added additional glued so it stays put on the chassis?

m_vice wrote:So Jeff,
So what is the clip on the rear spring for?

What type of Velcro did you use? Did you added additional glued so it stays put on the chassis?

My guess would be a different weight spring for a progressive setup.

The clip is supposed to be on top of the spring. I must have bumped it or something. My springs are cut a little shorter than most others so I need the clip to make up the difference.

The Velcro is from Michaels craft store. It's nothing special, just sticky back Velcro. Make sure to clean the chassis with a solvent before sticking it on.

I love my B4.

Was fortunate to meet Cav not that long ago and got a close-up look at his car.

The "light" setup was sorta perfected at our indoor offroad track. My B4 was the first gen before the FT version. When I got my b4, I was working for a LHS and bought my Team B4 w/ the FT CF upgrade kit and built it accordingly. Haven't really done much with it. I used to race more than I do, but I'm slowly getting back to the track.

I too made the Tower modification, (see below). I toyed with the B44 rear hub mod, but haven't gotten to it yet. I'm still using a brushed 12t in my car, until I can get another BL motor.

Novak Cyclone2 ESC
Novak XXL FM Receiver
Hitec HS525MG servo
Banzai 12x2 mod motor
Lunsford Ti Turnbuckles

Now for Pics.

i just bought a b4 love it, to bad they dont race them up here but still a great car

Is anyone racing a SC10 gear diff? If so how do you like it over the ball diff?

So what is the difference between the B4 and B44 spring cups?

The B44 spring cup is taller. That elevates the bottom of the spring a little bit. It also compensates for a shorter spring.

A couple of things I found it needed are the 9563 bulkhead switched over to aluminum to take the hits as the little screws holding the brace strip out easily and Lunsford upper shock mounts for when you flip, the stock ones bend easy.

Mike

Konich wrote:Is anyone racing a SC10 gear diff? If so how do you like it over the ball diff?

I haven't heard of anyone local using the gear diff. Seems like the new 4.1 comes with the gear diff, but most true racers stick with the ball diff. There are some discussions on the B4/T4 on RC Tech and you might find better insight on the use of the Gear Diff.



MOmo

Though I would post a pic of my B4, it has a couple of blue alum upgrades as you can see in the pic. Will post a list and more pics later.

I set my b4 up according to the manual. The reared is really soft and bottoms out really hard. So hard that it crushed the endbell on the motor. I think I need to switch out to some stiffer springs and shock pistons? Would an aluminum motor guard help or are they just for looks?