RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

im a big fan of the t3 slipper ever since i bought my "tortured t2" (in reader's rc10's), and the guy gave me a couple extra t3 slipper assemblies. very good mod in my opinion. and as ToS said, it wont squirm out. i have a rc10t with the original slipper and it is bulging out of the sides from heavy abuse. =]

peace,
gamma

badhoopty wrote:the pita part about the rpm tranny is that you cant do the b4 topshaft and slipper swap with it like you can with a normal stealth.

True, but you can get the RPM top shaft for the Hydra-Drive and use an Associated inner slipper plate (old style, smaller diameter than the T3) and then use a B4/T4 spur gear with slipper pads and a Losi outer slipper plate with a Losi spring...

I compared the original slipper to a B3/T3 and here's the measurements

Stealth
33mm OD, 24.5mm ID, 383.86mm² surface area

B3
35.7mm OD, 28.7mm ID, 354.06mm² area

So the B3 actually has slightly less surface area but has more mechanical advantage due to being a bigger diameter.

My chassis was a bit scratched up so I stripped the anodizing and polished it up.


I'm now running a Mamba Max and Tacon 4420kv motor and 2S lipo.



I finally installed the T3 slipper. Also added some aluminum rear arm mounts and MIP CVDs.
I picked up some aluminum servo mounts to replace the old plastic ones.





Here's a little running vid: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4GtAXgGB9OM



I got bored and made a little license plate for it too.

Since I run this truck and could use the extra durability, I picked up some aluminum C-blocks and steering blocks...............


I also modded an old Traxxas gear cover to fit...................


I also would like a carbon fiber transmission brace and since I have a small piece of 2.5mm carbon fiber I'll just make my own.


I can picture a few guys who like to keep there vintage cars stock rolling there eye's but I'm not one to keep anything stock anyways.
To me it's like turning an antique car into a hotrod.

Next order will be some new turnbuckles since these ones have seen better days.

I made my carbon fiber transmission brace tonight.......................



It's nothing fancy but I think it looks better than the stock nylon brace.




I'll probably order the new turnbuckles tomorrow.

that's sweet. just curious to what you used to cut the carbon sheet?

A dremel with a cutting wheel works best, then cut it a little over sized, and sand it to size to prevent chipping.
I also use some small hobby files for some shaping and to neaten the drilled holes.
I like to cover it with masking tape so I can draw the pattern on it, and it prevents damage to the finish.

truck looks good. thanks for the info on working with cf. I might just try that - i've been thinking on revamping my front shock tower a bit.

Just be sure to wear a dust mask and safety goggles when working with this stuff.
You really don't want to be breathing in the dust from c.f.

The tranny brace came out sweet.Great job on it.

hey where did you get those aluminum C and steering block set at?
Great lookin dimeT man!!!

Thanks for the compliments.

I got the steering blocks here:http://www.asiatees.com/display.php?Team-Associated-RC10GT-Parts-Hop-Ups-Upgrades&brand=Team%20Associated&model=RC10GT&id=981&pid=1

And the C-blocks:http://www.asiatees.com/display.php?Team-Associated-RC10GT-Parts-Hop-Ups-Upgrades&brand=Team%20Associated&model=RC10GT&id=38&pid=1
Unfortunately they seemed to run out of the silver C-blocks, but that's nothing a little easy-off oven cleaner and metal polish can't fix.

I got my new turnbuckles and RPM ball cups.....................................


Instead of titanium I took the cheap way out and just got some new steel ones. I can always use the old ones as spares in case I break or bend one.
I figured if I got the titanium set I'd have to buy an extra set if one broke and I don't feel like spending that much on parts that wont really improve performance and doesn't look that much better.

Unfortunately while removing the old ball cups I managed to snap off a ball stud in one of my new aluminum C-blocks.
Luckily I could remove the broken threaded end from the C-block, but now I have to wait for the new replacement ball studs to arrive.

I got the new ball studs today.
I also picked up some fancy conical washers just for some added bling .......................................

I think I have to paint the heads of my screws to cover up the rust until I replace them.