RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

scr8p wrote:in 20 years, i've only ever broke 2 associated parts. a front arm on an rc10gt (when my kid drove it full throttle into a telephone pole), and a rear arm on my old tc3.
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If you've never broken any Tc3 front arms racing them on a track (as opposed to bashing in an open parking lot for instance), you haven't tried hard enough! (or you're a darn good driver...)
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longboardnj wrote: oh and weak parts on rc10s??? id say, rear arm mounts,rear arm mounts,and rear arm mounts..

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And a few front arm mount's as well

Aluminum screws will shear (as scr8p said, 'specially with aluminum rear mounts), and the nylon rear arm mounts break, even worse so on the 10T than the 10, as the big tires and added weight, and longer arms give added leverage to breakage.

I'm a fan of using the Titanium screw kit from Lundsford (for RC10GT), but some think that Titanium screws can break. I've broken Titanium tie-rods, but not a chassis screw.

The two older styles of stock tie-rods (plain threaded rod & threaded rod w/hexes) are known for bending and breaking rather easily.

I thought losi eventually used larger (5-40) diameter tie rods on their kits, but to do so on an RC10 or 10T could result in cramped space for the larger ball ends, behind the front bulkhead, against the bellcranks.

Stock hinge pins bend, and the titanium ones can be brittle (just ask lowrydesign)

Speaking of hinge pins, the RC10/10T weren't designed with captive hinge pins, so the e-clips are always falling off or getting mutilated. old motor shims and shock o-rings help with that. Old designs like the RC10/10T didn't have set screws locking the hinge pins in place on the arm mounts either, but then this feature can be retrofitted to older parts.

If you're using brushless, the idler on the stealth tranny is very weak, and the next weakest link is the diff gear. The heat just mutilates them. Actually, the diff gear is tied for weakness with the stock and upgraded single disc slipper setups, which burn up the discs unless nearly locked-up. The Robinson racing keyed slipper upgrade or the T4 dual slipper is the way to go there.

The pinion to spur mesh is very vulnerable due to the poor sealing of the gear cover, which has a tough job due to wear from larger spur gears, and from uneven sealing along the boundaries of the (small) motor plate it attaches to, which both conspire to allow ingress of dirt and debris.

Don't forget that the motor plate itself is weak and is prone to bending whilst bashing & running hard (see below for: chassis).

Of course we can't forget the chassis, which although strong, will need to be shot-bagged and/or malloted for straightening and re-conditioning after much bashing and hard running. Lowrydesign has done this so many times, he could design a custom anvil just for doing this. You will need good dead-blow hammers, metal (copper?) hammers, and a straight edge at the least.

Oh and don't forget to maintain all the ball bearings, especially on the wheels, hubs, and the outdrives. They get thrashed from bashing and hard running.

I broke mainly tie-rods and had an issue with the stock servo saver locking up when hitting something. I remember breaking suspension mounts and a fiberglass shock tower, but those were either in really cold conditions and would snap or after I had dyed them and they became softer so that the parts actually ripped instead of snapping a clean break. I remember when we were racing outdoors people would keep their cars warm on really cold days by sitting them on a generator or leaving them in a heated car to avoid the cold/brittle breaks.

i guess if your entire goal is to beat the living piss out of your car, ya.......... your gonna break alot of crap. but under normal race conditions, the cars are pretty much bulletproof.

only thing I've ever broken is the front shock tower and a lower shock mount. And while I haven't beaten the living piss out of mine, I did get it to slide about a 100 feet on it's lid

metallicats33 wrote:only thing I've ever broken is the front shock tower and a lower shock mount. And while I haven't beaten the living piss out of mine, I did get it to slide about a 100 feet on it's lid

Why you braggin, maybe its the radios fault???

The only thing I ever "broke" on my rc10 was pulling the bottom shock eyelet off, and popping ballends off. And I jumped my car into that damn brick column at the VONATS last year, no breakage from that crash, but man was it embarrassing

burnsmonkey wrote:

metallicats33 wrote:only thing I've ever broken is the front shock tower and a lower shock mount. And while I haven't beaten the living piss out of mine, I did get it to slide about a 100 feet on it's lid

Why you braggin, maybe its the radios fault???

Well I didn't mention the melted diff and shredded idler gear... But I blame that on me. 9000kv motor, 2s lipo and doughnuts in the dirt I learned my lesson the hard way

scr8p wrote:schumacher cat spikes on all 4 corners. the hot setup around here to run on hardwood back in the day.

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I never would have guessed that the spiked tires would have worked! Way BITD we had a clay D/O track local and guys would take regular foam onroad tires and "cap" them with clear RTV silicone. It was the hot ticket. I couldn't find clear once so I used white. You should have seen the looks at the track I got that day. Guys made special machines to apply the RTV evenly and then balanced all them. It was a science.

Hmm, when I was bashing with my 10T Team Truck BITD the only thing I recall breaking were the steel ball ends. I guess I wasn't bashing hard enough...

I never would have guessed that the spiked tires would have worked!

if you think spikes wouldnt work check out what we run on polished concrete:

VintageAE-- I have had the rear mount screws break-- but they were a tad loose when that happened.

I've broken front a-arms, steering knuckles, ballcups/rod ends, front shock tower, rear a-arm mounts, dogbones, oem steering turnbuckles...

The rear shock tower & shock shaft broke when it was run over by a Corvette I was 'racing' across a parking lot.

I can't remember how many times I've straightened out the front kick-up plate & chassis.

metallicats33 wrote:only thing I've ever broken is the front shock tower and a lower shock mount. And while I haven't beaten the living piss out of mine, I did get it to slide about a 100 feet on it's lid

Well I guess I spoke too soon
Today I Cracked a front A-arm, Bent a rear turn-buckle and broke a new rear shock tower