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Mr. ED wrote:Why the 60.8mm swing shafts? The 62.5 ones were what I expected to see.

The A&L outdrives seem to be longer/deeper than the stock Kyosho ones. So, I needed the shorter swing shafts so they wouldn't grind against the outdrive when the suspension is compressed.

Ah, that's good to know. But since I don't have those shorter swingshafts I may look at using different axle carriers instead. Hopefully I'll remeber this when I satart a new build with the A&L. 5somehow it has not been high on my priority list lately)

You'll need a carrier that extends farther outward than the stock Ultima carrier. I thought about using a GV2 rear carrier but didn't even try. The end result is that the axles are really long and to get the correct track width, you have to use spacers. If you use a different carrier that extends further out, you'll still wind up using spacers but on the inside so the 60.5mm ones will still be the best option. This assumes you're using modern Kyosho 2.2 wheels. It may be different if you use a wheel with a different offset. I think I just wrote a bunch of jumbled thoughts, may not make any sense.

Pic of the rear axle setup. There is a blue spacer on the other end of the axle in the carrier.

I think I used optima carriers at some point to bring the wheels further out. But I don't remember if that kept things at legal width.

Just an FYI: The steering setup as I have in the pics causes some wild bump steer. So, the ball studs on the front inside of the shock tower have to be moved up and in. Also, I swapped the left and right knuckles to help with keeping the steering links at the correct angles. No more bump steer!

RR, I'm digging that body--looks like it might fit on an Optima/Turbo Optima chassis. I don't suppose you have a non-Mid Optima to test? And, would that body allow for a 7-cell battery to fit width-wise?

RichieRich wrote:

I do have a Turbo Optima. I will check and see if it can be done.

EDIT: I don't think it'll work, at least not cleanly. It could fit a 7-cell but the body would have to be moved forward. Not a problem but aesthetically, it would look weird. At least an inch of the rear radio plate would be exposed on the sides.

RichieRich wrote:Just an FYI: The steering setup as I have in the pics causes some wild bump steer. So, the ball studs on the front inside of the shock tower have to be moved up and in. Also, I swapped the left and right knuckles to help with keeping the steering links at the correct angles. No more bump steer!

Finally some pics. Sorry for the dust. LOL! Note the notches in the little top deck thingy. Those were needed to provide clearance for the upper links.

RichieRich wrote:I do have a Turbo Optima. I will check and see if it can be done.

EDIT: I don't think it'll work, at least not cleanly. It could fit a 7-cell but the body would have to be moved forward. Not a problem but aesthetically, it would look weird. At least an inch of the rear radio plate would be exposed on the sides.

Thanks for checking, RR. Too bad, I guess I'll have to stick with the standard T.O. body.

how does she drive with all the mod's??

GJW wrote:how does she drive with all the mod's??

X2 Richie! Have you track tested this Tub killer?

Ok, I can finally smell this car's first drive. I picked up some of the new Pure Tech battery straps with the aluminum blocks. All that's left is getting the front body mount. The only thing about the straps is that the screws are a little long and not beveled for a countersunk hole. I'll have to find something that works better.

rich, how tall of a body mount do you need? i don't have any kyosho parts (who'da thought ), but i do have something that should work.

Thanks Jason. I have one on it's way from Fredrik (walfre) over in Sweden. If something happens, I'll hit you up.