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I'm also about ready to finally step into the world of LiPo's, so this info is much appreciated.

Could these packs also be stored in the LiPo charging sacks?

DumbstixLars wrote:My friend said he read a story that a guy had one blow the lid off an ammo can.

The uncle of the fiance of a co-worker's brother was behind the stage of the Jimi Hendrix Eperience at Woodstock.

Since LiPos came on the scene, I have seen more NiMh explode doing damage to walls, tracks, cars and people than any single LiPo problem. The crap you see on YouTube is a lot of people trying to make a LiPo catch fire.

Any battery is a container for stored electrical energy and should be treated with care and respect. Think before you hook up the charge connectors, don't store a pack in the trunk of your car when it's 110° in the shade, and don't try to drive a nail into it with a hammer. Buy a good quality LiPo pack made for RC cars and you will not have problems with them, and you won't need to have a fire safe for the storage of a battery pack.

Store them the same way you did your NiCd/NiMh packs, except with these, leave about 80% of the charge in them. You'll be golden, and you don't have to worry about burning down your house. It's a myth.

Eau Rouge wrote:

DumbstixLars wrote:My friend said he read a story that a guy had one blow the lid off an ammo can.

The uncle of the fiance of a co-worker's brother was behind the stage of the Jimi Hendrix Eperience at Woodstock.

Since LiPos came on the scene, I have seen more NiMh explode doing damage to walls, tracks, cars and people than any single LiPo problem. The crap you see on YouTube is a lot of people trying to make a LiPo catch fire.

Any battery is a container for stored electrical energy and should be treated with care and respect. Think before you hook up the charge connectors, don't store a pack in the trunk of your car when it's 110° in the shade, and don't try to drive a nail into it with a hammer. Buy a good quality LiPo pack made for RC cars and you will not have problems with them, and you won't need to have a fire safe for the storage of a battery pack.

Store them the same way you did your NiCd/NiMh packs, except with these, leave about 80% of the charge in them. You'll be golden, and you don't have to worry about burning down your house. It's a myth.

I only believe the story because I have unending faith in the stupidity of mankind.

DumbstixLars wrote:I only believe the story because I have unending faith in the stupidity of mankind.

THAT I can't argue with.

LTO_Dave wrote:
Could these packs also be stored in the LiPo charging sacks?

You could if you were worried about them but there isn't any need to store them in the charge sacks. I also don't use a charge sack to charge them. I have some very cheap lipos and have put them thru the ringer and have no problems to date. I even have one that got WAY low on voltage and 'force charged' it after my ICE wouldn't charge it and had no problems with it. I don't recommend that by any means but nothing happened but charging a lipo that shouldn't have taken a charge...


Now I have a story about my NIMH in a radio melting it down but thats for a different thread

Eau Rouge wrote:

DumbstixLars wrote:I only believe the story because I have unending faith in the stupidity of mankind.

THAT I can't argue with.

quality statements there
Todd

On a slightly related note…I know regular rc10talk.commers get tired of me posting this, but I cannot recommend these products strongly enough! They work just as well as expensive stuff. The Lipos are soft, but unless your going to expose them to great hardship, they will be fine. I beat the hell out of mine with no issues. If you demand top quality racing lipos, Maxamps and SMC are tough to beat(although I beat them regularly with these lipos). I’m just trying to make it easy for everyone making the switch. You will not regret it.
http://www.hobbypartz.com/thac6smbachw.html
http://cgi.ebay.com/7-4v-5000mAh-30C-2-cell-2S-Lipo-RC-Battery-7-4-AKKU-WiF-/260601338863?cmd=ViewItem&pt=Radio_Control_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3cad0cdbef

THEYTOOKMYTHUMB wrote:On a slightly related note…I know regular rc10talk.commers get tired of me posting this, but I cannot recommend these products strongly enough! They work just as well as expensive stuff. The Lipos are soft, but unless your going to expose them to great hardship, they will be fine. I beat the hell out of mine with no issues. If you demand top quality racing lipos, Maxamps and SMC are tough to beat(although I beat them regularly with these lipos). I’m just trying to make it easy for everyone making the switch. You will not regret it.
http://www.hobbypartz.com/thac6smbachw.html
http://cgi.ebay.com/7-4v-5000mAh-30C-2-cell-2S-Lipo-RC-Battery-7-4-AKKU-WiF-/260601338863?cmd=ViewItem&pt=Radio_Control_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3cad0cdbef

I actually just got that charger in the mail today. Now I just have to pick out some Lipos. I was originally thinking about getting some NiMH, but now I want Lipos instead.

klavy69 wrote:

LTO_Dave wrote:
Could these packs also be stored in the LiPo charging sacks?

You could if you were worried about them but there isn't any need to store them in the charge sacks. I also don't use a charge sack to charge them. I have some very cheap lipos and have put them thru the ringer and have no problems to date. I even have one that got WAY low on voltage and 'force charged' it after my ICE wouldn't charge it and had no problems with it. I don't recommend that by any means but nothing happened but charging a lipo that shouldn't have taken a charge...

How did it get low on voltage. Don't modern esc's have a built in feature that stop the cells from getting too low? Just a question I have because I might try Lipo if nothing else comes out in say the next year or two.

Lowgear wrote: How did it get low on voltage. Don't modern esc's have a built in feature that stop the cells from getting too low? Just a question I have because I might try Lipo if nothing else comes out in say the next year or two.

Very true, modern esc's do but older ones don't...and then to leave it plugged in overnight is not recommended either on an old esc with a bad switch to top it off . Its one of my first 4000mah packs but it still takes a charge but just doesn't take the full 4k after that. One of the locals told me not to do it just to pitch it. He said it would either swell up big time or burn like a road flare. I believe these to be myths myself.
Todd

My D/C adapter cord for my charger doesn't fit the plug in the charger.

DumbstixLars wrote:My D/C adapter cord for my charger doesn't fit the plug in the charger.

??? Huh ??? This a new charger? and the cord for it doesn't fit it? Got me confused on this one...
Todd

I've always left my Lipo's charged at @ 75% and keep them in a closet where the temp stays consistant. I have had Max Amps/SMC/IPC and have never had an issue. Hell my IPC 4200's I leave in my Durango DEX since its too hard to get them out.

Charge/Balance/Store correctly and you will never have a problem

klavy69 wrote:

DumbstixLars wrote:My D/C adapter cord for my charger doesn't fit the plug in the charger.

??? Huh ??? This a new charger? and the cord for it doesn't fit it? Got me confused on this one...
Todd

Yeah, the DC cord that is used to connect to a 12V battery doesn't fit the jack on the charger. Hobbypartz is sending me a new cord, hopefully that'll work. If not then I'm going to head to rat shack to see what I can cobble together.

i run turnigy 5000 mah 20c packs they are cheap i run them in my e revo and rc 10s they have been great for the price $35 . they fit great work great . awesome run time in my rc10s

mustang dave wrote:i run turnigy 5000 mah 20c packs they are cheap i run them in my e revo and rc 10s they have been great for the price $35 . they fit great work great . awesome run time in my rc10s

Yeah I ordered a couple of those cheap blue hard case packs from hobbypartz, we will see how they do.