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That was one option I was thinking about. I was going to start with a vertical ball stud tapped into the block (just behind the king pin). I would be removing material just like the ones you have done though. But, after revising the tie rod geometry on the tower, I might save it as a last resort so to speak. I think I can achiece the desired result (with the tower), but with little camber position adjustment however . -Jeff

losiXXXman wrote:Is this the mod you are going to do? I was prepping a set of white RC10 hubs to run on a B2, but decided to throw them on my RC10. (The RC10 is looking like it will be completed first.) Used the B3 kingpin/ball stud combo, and some shims. THe shims would also allow minor roll center adjustment due to placement...

I like your mod, great idea!

Here is the latest. The original is on the right, and the two succesively longer units are on the left. -Jeff

are they cnc milled?

Yes . -Jeff

in my best napolean dynamite.... luckyyy

Little update. I tried a castor block mod today, hoping it would allow for a vertical adjustment on the front end. In my particular situation it won't work. So to all of you who are thinking about it, don't bother unless you are running in a situation with limited suspension travel (oval maybe). This mod puts the new location in the same vertical plane as the stock location, and out about .020 in. The problem, is that its movement bottoms out at the top of MY travel, and won't allow for any further vertical adjustment -which defeats the purpose . The next item, was to turn some extended axles to bring the car out to max legal width in the front. They are extended about 3mm per side, which is perfect for the rims I am using. And finally is the finished (for now) front end. In the pics you can see the long axles, the preload adjustment (which was limited before) available via the new towers, and the revised camber link position above the std. team car/worlds hole. Next to get started on the rear end. -Jeff