RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

there are only one set of holes in the chassis, as you show. the wheelbase can be changed by moving the rear arm mounts front and back, there should be 4 holes in them?

that's all you can do with the rear bumper with a litespeed heatsink, unless you can figure out a small bracket that can tie the two together.

The rear arm mounts themselves have the option of being mounted "forward" or "rearward", adjusting the wheelbase. If (from the bulkhead looking back) you are in the front "set" of holes, you are mounted "rearward", you have a longer wheelbase, your dogbones will be swept back as they approach the wheels. If you are in the rear "set" of holes, you are mounted "forward", the dogbones appear to be more straight across and the wheelbase of the car is shorter.

The rear motor guard bolted to the chassis and then the stock motor plate (like a standard chassis would, behind the motor), but with the litesink, you dont have that option.

Back to wheelbase, I'm sure there are better descriptions on what it does to the car, but here are the basics I have always followed:

Longer wheelbase, better on rough tracks, but you lose some steering.
Shorter wheelbase, better steering, but you lose rough track stability.

For the shelf...not sure, havent raced on one of them yet!

Intersting, you know, in rebuilding I noticed the extra holes and did not give it any thought. Yes longer in general better for larger and rough trucks. Not sure I will ever run this one so we shall see.

Scored a buddy off the BAY to finish it up. I used a Bud's bi-level wing because I had one and the Trinity motor is straight out of the package. This one will just sit. With the exception of the chassis, rear arm mounts and bulkhead which were dyed the rest was all new black parts.