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Careful with brake fluid. If you leave it soaking for any extended period of time, it breaks down the lexan and it will spider crack almost like glass. I personally won't use it.
Jay

mrlexan wrote:Careful with brake fluid. If you leave it soaking for any extended period of time, it breaks down the lexan and it will spider crack almost like glass. I personally won't use it.
Jay

What...like you're some kind of lexan expert or something?

I agree, I won't use it either. Just too much work especially with proper disposal.

mrlexan wrote:Careful with brake fluid. If you leave it soaking for any extended period of time, it breaks down the lexan and it will spider crack almost like glass. I personally won't use it.
Jay

you mean i risked my only two bodies???? . i've come over all queasy

where were you two when i was asking the same?

luckily it turned out okay.

I have never had good luck with brake fluid. My lexan stripper of choice is Nitro fuel. I use a paint brush liberally dipped in nitro fuel to gently scrub off the paint.

It worked killer for my scorpion body.

Before


After

Nice ^^^

I've found nitro fuel made a body I had go cloudy.. maybe the brand makes a difference?

Cloudy is not a bad thing..... remember when you paint bodies the general rule to promote adhesion is to scuff up the to be painted surface.... this of course doesn't apply to windows that are trying to be keep clear, but you could always dust those.

The one factor that seems to influence everything and you can't do anything about... is the exact make up or grade of lexan/polycarb used. Seems different thing act differently to diff manuf bodies.

BOTTOM LINE..... it is a crap shoot.

tomstacey wrote:I've found nitro fuel made a body I had go cloudy.. maybe the brand makes a difference?

I have had this happen and I think this has to do with the paint. If the paint was good in the first place, it should have etched into the lexan a bit. I think the cloudyness you see is the paint etching.

Ok, boys and girls I rmeember what it was. The stuff I used to clean paint off was Testors Brush Cleaner. Its a glass bottle with an orange label and the liquid is clear. You pretty much just wipe it on with a rag and it makes the paint orange peel up and then you just wipe it away. It doesn't do anything to the lexan either which is a bonus!

http://www.misterart.com/g43/Testors-Brush-Cleaner-for-Enamels.htm?WT.mc_n=nextag&WT.mc_t=CPC&WT.mc_id=43

Hmmm.. I agree with Jay.. its such a risk, especially on a rare body like a JRX-Pro (of which mine has a crap paintjob) I'm tempted just to leave it..

I think the different paints strip differently too, Tamiya paint comes off at the slightest suggestion of any solvent, Pactra seems to be the worst.

mrlexan wrote:Cloudy is not a bad thing..... remember when you paint bodies the general rule to promote adhesion is to scuff up the to be painted surface ...

but wont that affect the clarity of the colour when it's painted?

tom, I ruined a perfect good YZ10 body.... talk about another rare one.

volumiza.... no it won't when you paint over the cloudy ness, it just goes to color. As mentioned, some (not all) paints suggest that you scuff by the inside of the body with sandpaper prior to paint. Try it out one time.

mrlexan wrote:volumiza.... no it won't when you paint over the cloudy ness, it just goes to color. As mentioned, some (not all) paints suggest that you scuff by the inside of the body with sandpaper prior to paint. Try it out one time.

i was going to try and spray my newly stripped body today so i'll give it a go, thanks.

I have stripped the car down again to fit some white parts I have obtained in lots recently and also in preparation for the incoming Protech body...



I have also been making a whole bunch of the box art cars parts like the GRP front and rear shock towers, rear transmission brace, battery straps, nylon spring cups, etc...

Dr. Robotnik wrote:
I have also been making a whole bunch of the box art cars parts like the GRP front and rear shock towers, rear transmission brace, battery straps, nylon spring cups, etc...

Yay! Are you going to require provenance for those who might wish to obtain these items?