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scr8p wrote:battery box + servo tape = no holes to drill

That's a great idea. I did that with my pink chassis build to mount the A&L chassis brace kit. I thought you guys might make fun of me though for taking the easy route and just using tape

I also agree on the litesink. I bolted it on because it was blue. When I get around to it I plan on striping the ano off a gold motor plate. Too bad AE didn't also powder the motor plate to match.

the car looks great!

BUT....it needs white nylon locknuts for the shocks and front axles.

If you need some shoot me a PM

railey72 wrote:I thought you guys might make fun of me though for taking the easy route and just using tape

that's when you break out the........... i totally forgot to drill and countersink new battery box holes before i started building the car, and it's too much of a pita to do it now. i would've bought that.

railey72 wrote:I also agree on the litesink. I bolted it on because it was blue. When I get around to it I plan on striping the ano off a gold motor plate. Too bad AE didn't also powder the motor plate to match.

if your hear of someone doing a blue ano run, ask them if they'll do a stock one for you. the blue tub i painted (little lighter than the ae pc), i used a blue ano'd b3 motor plate and it looks pretty close.

the aluminum motor plate is used to dissipate heat from the motor, probably why ae didn't p.c. them.

Great looking buggy. That turned out really nice.

[quote="badattitude"]Very nice!
Did you have to use a longer rear shock shaft with the Jammin rear tower? Is it taller than a standard tower?quote]

The rear shock tower is only slightly taller than stock. I just used standard rear shocks and they work fine. You could use longer shafts if you wanted to.

scr8p wrote: if your hear of someone doing a blue ano run, ask them if they'll do a stock one for you. the blue tub i painted (little lighter than the ae pc), i used a blue ano'd b3 motor plate and it looks pretty close.

the aluminum motor plate is used to dissipate heat from the motor, probably why ae didn't p.c. them.

It's very funny that you mention this because I'll be sending some parts to my annodizer in Milwaukee to be anodized blue, intending to match the B3 factory team blue using a motor plate as an example for color. I'll be mailing them this week if anyone is interested.

there ya go, doug.

Charlie don't surf wrote:Awesome!!!!! what Pro-line rears are those Doug?

I'm pretty sure the rear tires are also Jammin'

Charlie don't surf wrote:Awesome!!!!! what Pro-line rears are those Doug?

Yeah, they are Jammin 2.0 rear tires. The body and wing will be one of Jay's Jammin repro's.

Thanks Adam for the anno hookup!

scr8p wrote:awesome build, doug!

litesink motor plates on a tub car drives me nuts, though.

what should litesinks be installed in scr8p ? i was thinking about putting one in my old is new build.

what should litesinks be installed in scr8p

Cars with Graphite chassis

Graphite chassis are very stiff and therefore do not need the motor plate to act as a stressed member.

The Litesink does not attach to the rear of an aluminum pan like the stock motor plate. Remove the two motor plate to chassis screws on your RC10 and see how much flex there is. The stock motor plate is a structual part.

ahh i see, thanks. i knew the very back section would flex if i got rear ended, didnt realize whole back would be compromised. i might have to rethink that then haha.

Awesome looking buggy love the blue and white don't think I could drill a chassis that looks that good yet

son of a banana!!!! jaw droping.....

stunning........ do wish i have a shelfer but all of my 10's are runner.....

Awesome looking build! I am building my transmission practically the same as yours. I have everything you have but having a hard time finding the Jammin Diff rings. Now you are getting me really motivated to start this project, if only I was home.