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It was well off for the tracks of the days, loose and rutted. As the tracks gets smoother and had more traction, the hydra was set aside as i wasnt able to compete with the modern slipper like the b4.

When you needed power on loose tracks, hydra performs better,the down side of it was you have bigger rotating mass,which of course back i. The day is a no no.

I've read that losi ditched the hydra drive because the unit got to hot with the newer batteries and motors that were coming out. I have two hydra drives and considered using them until I read that.

Alot of the guys over here (in the UK) have been running the Hydradrive on cars like the Atomic Carbon CR2 - on our rutted beat-up tracks the Hydradrive is said to really tame the car down & make it easier to drive. Of cause with the use of Lipos & super power brushless motors the concern of the rotating mass of the hydradrive unit is less of an issue.

I've never heard or experienced a Hydradrive unit overheating?? But then our ambient temps are lower (generally) than many places.

All UK sold XX kits came with the Hydradrive (its seems we didn't get the sport version) I (like many of my friends) ran the hydradrive to start with but very quickly realised that they tended to leak & cause a right mess.... it was just alot simpler to run the optional friction slipper set-up.

Thanks for posting the pic but they arent showing up. Maybe its because Im on my work computer. I check it out on my home computer when I get off work.

I just ordered 2 brand new 3120 shafts off of ebay. Now I have to track down all the other stuff. Is there anywhere that I can order like a whole sliper kit?

theres one in BST by YZ10, just buy the rebuild kit and your Off.

cheers!!!

Will this one work. Is it missing anything?

http://cgi.ebay.com/280682719474?ru=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%3A80%2Fsch%2Fi.html%3F_from%3DR40%26_trksid%3Dp4712.m570.l1313%26_nkw%3D280682719474%26_sacat%3DSee-All-Categories%26_fvi%3D1&_rdc=1

pretty much complete, you just need the washer inbetween (Plastic and metal washer and ball washer),
similar to below.



in you do not put it the spring will be way short and would need to tighten it all the way ill i gets
the correct tension.

http://www.rccaraction-digital.com/rccaraction/201101?pg=146#pg146

Heres a link to that artical I mentioned about parts of the hydradrive becoming too hot with higher capacity batteries.

I got the hydra top shaft and all of the B4 slipper parts but I'm having a problem. The rear slipper plate rubs up against the motor plate bad enough that it binds and nothing turns freely. What's the trick? My Losi plates from my XXX have the same issue on the JRX. Is there a spacer that goes on the shaft before the rear slipper plate?

Update: Thanks to vintagelosi.com (I love that site!) I looked at the instructions for the friction slipper and saw that on the early gearboxes you had to drill out the hole for the input shaft. That solved that problem. The back plate of the slipper was still just hitting the motor plate so it too got drilled out a little bit. Now it works great. The only problem I'm having now is that the spur gear is farther back than it normally is. While it clears everything the spur gear hits the motor itself behind the pinion unless I use at least a 23 tooth pinion or space the motor back slightly. Nothing big but still a big weird. Oh well it works now.