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It was really easy to do. The only part that's not readily available new are the rear arm mounts. I used the 3º T2 ones with 0º truck hub carriers because I had them. On another note the RPM rear arms use the old style long inner hingepins...

The build spec is:

30wt and #1 pistons front and rear with black springs (I'm going to swap the rear to green for track testing with sub C's)
30º front caster blocks
3º rear toe set at the arm mount
Rear shocks mounted inner top and outer bottom
Front shocks are middle top upper and middle bottom
Pink *cough Losi cough* wide rib fronts and taper pin rears (it's what works at the local track).

For electrics right now I've got a few choices; Tekin G12cIII, GM V12, Novak Tempest, or LRP ICS, so basically 1998 technology. I've got various 50+ in/oz servos, I'll probably slap in a Hitec HS605bb (my "emergency" spare..). I have no current tech batteries, and don't really know where to go there. I might get some 3300 stick packs to tide me over. The local track runs 7 minute mains though... I'm not out to win...just have fun.

Any input welcome.

I'm not too sure about the Pure Tech battery strap, it covers the front cell on a side by side 1700/2000 pack, and I'm not so sure about bigger cells, even though the chassis was thoughtfully drilled to move the battery cup forward 1/4"... Anyone got an Orion hard shelled Lipo they can check the fit on a stock chassis with a stock battery cup?

Awesome runner temple! I have one suggestion though, you might want to go up to #2 pistons and 30wt oil in the front. Everyone says to use #1 pistons all around, but I feel it is a set up for the old rock hard tires. From running my rc10 recently on dirt for about a year with modern rubber, I've been using #2 pistons in the front with the blue front spring. The stiffer front setup really helps the tires dig on high speed sweepers. On the low speed 180's, its all tires.

Awesome, thanks carloco8! I was actually at the track today to see what the conditions were like. I'm also wondering what the effects of a lighter electrics setup will have (Lipo, maybe BL...). 6497 front springs, right? Green or silver rear? It's an indoor track, clay-ish, but tends to dry out towards the end of the day. TL Pink Tapers when it's still damp, and then maybe Holeshots or (ha ha nobody has 'em but I've stashed a few sets, PL Evil Twins). Keep in mind it's 40º +/- here, but the track (or more like the pit area) is heated by salamader (think jet engine) type heaters... There was still ice in the low spots on the track this morning when I got there!

Indoor clay tracks are my fav for running older cars (easier on the bottom of the chassis LOL). Yeah, 6497 blue springs for the front. For the rear, start with the greens #1 piston and 30wt, then go silver. If you are using greens in the rear and it is still a little loose, try the inside camber link on the bulkhead. For tires, Pink tapers will reign supreme when its damp and not dusty. I use m3 holeshots or square fuzzies/evil twins when a clay track becomes a little loose or dusty on the surface. When the surface dries out, but remains smooth, try pink X2000 or X3000 tires. As far as electronics go I still use the good 'ole brushed motors and nimh batts (3300, 3700, and 4200). I assume that lipo would use a lighter shock setup unless you add weight. With BL, I've heard that they work best with current high voltage batteries and that you lose some speed and punch when using older batteries (3300 and 3700), versus just losing a little punch when using older batteries with brushed motors.

Either way, rc10 runners rule

Just a little more progress...I've "siebenelched" it with a 10T rear tower. Actually I've also reconfigured the shocks and such, but after I took these pics.

Getting the body "slammed" in the front is really limited by the servo and servo saver. The rear just involves cutting a clearance hole above the gear cover. I could get the rear 1/4" or 5mm lower but cutting the motorplate. It's as low as I can go right now. The Puretech battery strap dealie just won't work, so I went back to the old style.

carloco8, the blue front springs are long...like B4 long. I had to swap the front and rear lower spring retainers as the RPM fronts give too much preload. That worked out nice. There's also damn little tire clearance in the rear with the shocks mounted in the outer arm holes. Still, playing with axle shimming should fix that.

I'll put up a few more pics tomorrow.

Nice build temple, I was looking forward to the vomit scheme though. Oh well

Yeah, RPM rear arm shock mounting holes dont match the stock rc10 rears On the RPM rear arms I liked the middle hole a little more than the outside one. It simulates a hole inbetween the two outer ones of a stock rc10 rear arm. Don't worry too much about shimming the axle, the outer shock mount on the RPM arm is farther out than the outside shock position of a stock rc10 arm. Sorry, I forgot to mention that the front springs are a little longer. They will work gooood though. I also use the newer associated spring cups as well. You're gonna have a blast bomb'in around with the rc10. It'll be dialed

RC Chick wrote:Nice build temple, I was looking forward to the vomit scheme though. Oh well

It's not like I tossed all the dyed stuff... I've got a "nice" tub chassis just waiting...for a beat up black buggy noseplate.

carloco8 wrote:Yeah, RPM rear arm shock mounting holes dont match the stock rc10 rears On the RPM rear arms I liked the middle hole a little more than the outside one. It simulates a hole inbetween the two outer ones of a stock rc10 rear arm. Don't worry too much about shimming the axle, the outer shock mount on the RPM arm is farther out than the outside shock position of a stock rc10 arm. Sorry, I forgot to mention that the front springs are a little longer. They will work gooood though. I also use the newer associated spring cups as well. You're gonna have a blast bomb'in around with the rc10. It'll be dialed

I'm pretty stoked. The rear shocks are pretty stood up with the 10T rear tower, similar to the buggy tower in the outer holes, so I guess I'll have to play with the rear springs some, probably starting with silvers. I'm using 1.02 shafts in 1.32 bodies and no internal limiters. The downtravel is quite a bit less than a normal World's car, but really looks about perfect. I need to go back to siebenelch's post to have a look at his setup.

I'll get some shots of it in it's updated form tomorrow.

I'm sure this thread will get buried soon enough, but here's more updated, and even outdoor, pictures. Siebenelch deserves HUGE kudos for pioneering the German slammed Protech look. Can you ever get over how cool that body looks hammered?

Minicooper35, get on it!

I am more interested in, what is "Rice Paddy"?

http://www.ricepaddymotorcycles.com/

I rent a warehouse space in the same compound.

dang dude i forgot all about that yellow stealth case...

looks better this way anyway.

badhoopty wrote:dang dude i forgot all about that yellow stealth case...

looks better this way anyway.

I'm really liking this better than the barfy dyed stuff I had planned to race with... but I am going to use those items for a six-gear tub chassied basher/rent-a-racer. I'm probably going to "invent" some off the wall decals for this guy, just to create confusion at the track. JConcepts BJ10, anyone?

templeofspeed wrote:http://www.ricepaddymotorcycles.com/

I rent a warehouse space in the same compound.

Whatcha storing?