RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

The Castle 4600 is a potent set up, and I would go lipo if you brushless.

Look for a Novak/LRP/Tekin sensored set up, anything from a 17.5 to 10.5 (the lower the faster). You will need to adjust your gearing depending upon which motor you go with. Spend the few extra dollars and snag a good servo too. If your gonna go speeding around, you want to feel confident about turning

For batteries, most lipos wont fit in the stock spot on the RC10, so a little modifying will be necessary. Many many different ones out there, dont be afraid to get a nice big one (5000+ range). My personal opinion for a charger is get an all-in-one unit, like the Durtrax Onyx 230 or newer 235. I've been using one for racing for going on 2 years now, solid, small, light, and a workhorse.

Well this is my first day and first post on the site. Very impressed so far. About a month ago I pulled my gold pan out of a box I put it in 20+ years ago. Its in need of some, make that LOTS of TLC, trans is gummed up (thats the 20+ years of grease sitting idle I presume), bearings fell apart just taking off the wheel etc... I took out the charger and 3 battery packs from back then and couldn't believe they held a charge and worked.

Now I was really itching, but my old car needs so much work and I want to take my time to restore properly, I made an impulse buy and went on ebay and bought another gold pan for $130.00 came with a rooster esc, controller, motor, extra tires, CVD's (again I've been out of the game 25 years, didn't know what they were until the car arrived) and it also had the stealth trans. The guy said he had some issues with it running properly, took me about a half hour to figure out the wiring was coming loose going to the motor. I resoldered and holy crap this thing is fast, way faster then mine was back in the day.

That did me in, I'm committed now. Some of my questions have already been answered in this post (can't remember/wasn't sure) on gear ratios, thank you for that info.

So I guess I just want to say hello and I appreciate any help in getting me caught up to speed on stuff I've missed out on the last 25 years.

side note - didn't understand the hobby the chief's share in common, now I get it, hilarious, I think I'm going to like it here.

robtaylor2003 wrote:I'm committed now.

The first step is knowing there is a problem...there are alot of us on this board that need to be committed .

on a side note...welcome guys!
Todd

Just wondering what you ended up getting? Did you keep the 6 gear or go stealth?

Ok so i took it from this....






To this....






Now i need a motor and esc. i have a receiver however i may get another sr300 and use my spektrum dx3s

based on the last picture, swap your rear arm mounts side to side. it appears they are on the wrong side.

The car looks good

Did the stock dog bones work or did you need new ones?

yeah the dog bones seem to be fine. i only had to replace the front knuckles for $15, a shock rebuild kit for these shocks for $4, a dust cover for the trans for $3 and the front wheels and tires and wheels were $60 new and the rear wheels and tires were used but it great shape for $25 so i am in this for about a total of $125ish including shipping. i do have one issue with one shock, needs a new cap... will not keep a deal under pressure the cap pops, but they are cheap so i will probably replace all 4.

oh, good call on the rear arm mounts. i had not noticed. Thanks!

actually as i went to adjust the arms i realized that they allow to adjust the wheel base. should i move them back the one position to gain that extra 1/4th inch or so wheel base?

I personally have always run mine forward, but depending upon the bulkhead you have, it may not fit that way (early bulkheads).

Lookin' good


Funny how these $60 used finds (or free basement finds) ALWAYS end up costing 3 times to get back in decent shape

Welcome to the madhouse - you're with friends here

Paul

chiefin wrote:actually as i went to adjust the arms i realized that they allow to adjust the wheel base. should i move them back the one position to gain that extra 1/4th inch or so wheel base?

Sorry if this is a stupid question but how can you do that?

There are 2 sets of mounting holes on the rear arm mounts. Depending upon which set you choose, you can run a long wheel base or a short wheel base.

hehe yeah lonestar, it is costing me a total of around 200 bucks actually. the car cost about 230ish new and a new one on ebay goes for around $500 i have seen. Not that i would ever sell mine but it is in better shape than some listed for $350 that i have seen. btw last night i fabricated a battery mount, it came out quite nice. you cannot see in the pic but there is a thin layer of dense adhesive foam under the entire length of the battery to protect the chassis