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The graphite runner is progressing nicely as I continue to borrow from other projects. Close your eyes Synergy... OCD got the best of me! 3M chassis protector on for life.
Parts stolen from Mantis are the stealth (CE shocks are next).
Parts stolen from fiberglass mid motor are the rpm arms, mounts and other bits. Cut down 4-40 rod will do for now.

Are you turning this into a 4wd dual motored graphite rc10?

I got your motor skid plate but I'm not sure when I'll be at the track next. But I'll probably be at the regional warm up race for sure though, if you were planning on going for that.

seth556 wrote:Are you turning this into a 4wd dual motored graphite rc10?

I got your motor skid plate but I'm not sure when I'll be at the track next. But I'll probably be at the regional warm up race for sure though, if you were planning on going for that.

Negative on the dual motor Seth... I trust one will take care of business! I posted the pic to show how little progress I have made on the mid motor fiberglass project (nose, arms and tranny). The mid motor donated the rpm arms to the runner. I don't know when I will make it out to the track either. ARTR so should be very soon!

New parts are the front and rear carriers, front shock tower and rpm ball cups. Carriers are 10t, fronts carry rc10 inline axle (who says you can't fit a hexagonal into a round hole!). I still need to replace the remaining pair of cut 4-40 rods with proper turnbuckles and sort out a stealth motor mount (bst post). I also stole the B2 front rims and cvds from Mantis. I will pick up some thunder tiger rear rims for modern tires.

Looking nice!!

soniccj5 wrote:Looking nice!!

Thanks!

ARTR. I need foam inserts for all tires and a set of 2.2 rears to run new rubber. Anxious to melt 11t brushes with a 4200nimh. Don't get me wrong... I don't try to tear stuff up. Two runs in a 10l with the 4200 smoked the last brushes.

Picked up the motor mount from a friend and jumped on a new rpm stealth oval rear mount to replace the 6 gear Andy's mount... $10 shipped! I re-routed the wires and eliminated interference. ARTR local bomber class and off-road at the RC Asylum.

knucklebuster wrote:

Synergy wrote:Obviously you must do as you wish but imho it would be a real shame to drill such a nice 6 gear graphite chassis for stealth

I hear you. If it makes you feel any better I realized there are actually two extra holes in the chassis. My OCD is requiring that I enlarge both as they are off center. If I didn't have plans to race this buggy I would simply enlarge the existing extra holes

I sat the chassis in a sink with shallow soapy water and poured near boiling water in to help remove the 2" x 6" area of solid crazy glue. The glue was used to hold on velcro tape for the battery. The chassis appears to have changed to an almost iridescent yellow/green/black color in areas where there was no servo tape or adhesive. Interesting as the tape and some glue was cleaned off prior to the scorching.

My first Rc10 gold tub needed the two extra holes in the chassis. The original factory holes were off to one side and were a tad short for some six cell packs to fit, so the two new ones were centred and closer to the servo. Now even factory packs with molded pastic caps fit in..

filzemail wrote:

knucklebuster wrote:

Synergy wrote:Obviously you must do as you wish but imho it would be a real shame to drill such a nice 6 gear graphite chassis for stealth

I hear you. If it makes you feel any better I realized there are actually two extra holes in the chassis. My OCD is requiring that I enlarge both as they are off center. If I didn't have plans to race this buggy I would simply enlarge the existing extra holes

I sat the chassis in a sink with shallow soapy water and poured near boiling water in to help remove the 2" x 6" area of solid crazy glue. The glue was used to hold on velcro tape for the battery. The chassis appears to have changed to an almost iridescent yellow/green/black color in areas where there was no servo tape or adhesive. Interesting as the tape and some glue was cleaned off prior to the scorching.

My first Rc10 gold tub needed the two extra holes in the chassis. The original factory holes were off to one side and were a tad short for some six cell packs to fit, so the two new ones were centred and closer to the servo. Now even factory packs with molded pastic caps fit in..

Thanks... I know what you are talking about as I have far too many rc10s

I recently swapped out rear axles to run newer rims and more importantly tires. Here (I think) is another option to add to the list... mip b2/b3 rear cvds, 10t rear carrier (added a lower hole for the ballstud to bring the link horizontal), non-flanged 3/8 x 3/16 bearings, crush tube, 3/16 b4 spacer, zero shims (you might fit one). I am running b4 rear rims however you can not mount shock to the outer most hole on the arm. You will need shock stops to keep the cvd in the outdrive (sits close to center with horizontal cvd). I am running b4 front rims and they slightly rub the rpm arms at full turn (turned down servo throw).

Update: same setup with TT rims are my favorite setup for new rubber.

I brought this buggy along to shake down and run with the pan cars in a parking lot. I ended up swapping back to the original cvds and an 8 turn single reedy. I ran a friends 5000mah lipo and the buggy pulled wheelies all day long. Totally unexpected with a brushed motor!!!

I only have one dirt oval car, the bomber, and have a blast running at the track. SS Speedway runs a number of classes and running only one class sucks. I run a total of 12 minutes during a 4 hour night of races.

The bomber hooked up great with minor suspension changes. As a result, I decided to leave the stock suspension alone for the graphite late model. I am starting with 30 weight oil and green springs all around.

I picked up soft CW tires and a McAllister body. I pulled out the Tempest and installed the Cyclone for a better fit. I also swapped out the 8 turn Reedy for the 11x2 Reedy. I am chomping at the bit to run but rainy days prevail.

WOW Chris, looks good!!! You've done a really nice job with it. I haven't been on here in a while. I guess I need to start coming around more often.

knucklebuster wrote:The chassis is ready for the stealth... Mantis will unfortunately need to donate several parts for this build.

Do you have a shot of that motor plate off the car? It looks like one of the ones I made and sold BITD-

Thanks Russ!

Reg, the motor mount from Mantis was carbon fiber. While it looked cool, I sold the mount as cf does not dissipate heat. The latest build uses a trinity heat sink snugged up to a cut stock mount.