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I used my D4 buggy spare wing to complete the set. Here is the final result, what do you think?

Paint the windows black from the inside and it will be all good.

Mr. ED wrote:Paint the windows black from the inside and it will be all good.

I still have black paint and I might give it a try, thanks for the suggestion

That's amazing. From the first stripped picture, I guessed this body would be a goner. But you brought it back from the dead!

losiXXXman wrote:That's amazing. From the first stripped picture, I guessed this body would be a goner. But you brought it back from the dead!

Thanks for the compliment

That turned out better than expected, just like mine. Instead of a piece of garbage, you now have a pretty decent basher body.

Some-one I spoke not long ago told me to be carefull with the brake fluid. He claimed it leaves traces of oil in the material which makes the recovered bodies a less than optimal base for the next mask and paint job.
I haven't repainted the radicator2 body I recovered yet. But it does feel a bit thick, kind of as if it were PET instead of polycarbonate (= lexan).
When I get to it , I'll make sure to use Pactra and mask as little as possible

Mr. ED wrote:Some-one I spoke not long ago told me to be carefull with the brake fluid. He claimed it leaves traces of oil in the material which makes the recovered bodies a less than optimal base for the next mask and paint job.
I haven't repainted the radicator2 body I recovered yet. But it does feel a bit thick, kind of as if it were PET instead of polycarbonate (= lexan).
When I get to it , I'll make sure to use Pactra and mask as little as possible

Or use liquid mask. The green & purple zebra paint-job I did on a recovered Optima body went on very crisp and clean, even in the more complicated nooks & crannies, using FasMask. It was the bad results with the previous masking tape job that necessitated the recovery in the first place.

For paint removal you can use Fairy Power Spray (UK) or Easy Off oven cleaner (USA).

I have had a lot of success with the Fairy power Spray, spraying onto the paint, placing shell in bag and leaving overnight, then scrubbing/scraping/washing off. In some cases the paint has washed right off, some were a lot more stubborn with multiple layers being the most troublesome. I haven't tried the Easy Off Oven Cleaner but there are lots of posts online about other peoples experiments with it.

Biggest problem is repeat applications (and sometimes 1) weaken and thin the lexan leading to splitting and cracks - especially on already weakened areas of the shell - so be careful when trying this!

I would say like others have in this thread, if you can buy the shell new then don't waste your time trying to strip spray paint.

I have used this DOT 4 brake fluid method twice with varied results. I'm by no means a professional painter and messed up my first B4.1 shell pretty bad. I decided to try out this method on the shell which I had painted with Pactra paints. I found the harder I rubbed, even after letting it soak for a while, the worse the cloudiness got. I actually stopped the process and have yet to go back and finish the body. A month later I attempted to paint my Tamiya Saint Dragon shell and messed that up too lol. The body set had cost me $40 and I couldn't justify buying a new one without trying the DOT 4 method again. I used Tamiya paints on this shell which I found completely stripped clean using the brake fluid. I also allowed more soak time and scrubbed as lightly as I could which could've attributed to my success. Another factor may have been the quality of the vintage lexan but I'm no expert. Personally, I'm going to use Tamiya paints from now on just in case I mess up again. Which I'm sure I will.

having read the earlier posts in this thread, i decided to try it on an old jrx pro shell i have aquired (shell in good condition but the colour was awful).
i soaked the shell in dot 4 brake fluid and covered in absorbent kitchen paper adding more fluid to ensure a good coating, left it in a plastic bag for 2 days and all the paint just rubbed off leaving a perfectly clear shell.
washed it off with hot soapy water and it`s as good as new.

Instead of creating another thread, I decided to ask my question here.

I’m seeking your professional input/help/tips/info for those who have experienced in painting a plastic chassis using a spray paint can.

I would like to paint my chassis in silver color (image shown below) but I’m a bit worried that the result of the paint will be uneven or easy to rip off. How many layers should I apply and the time of interval?

Any suggestion on procedure/tips, of how to paint a plastic chassis would be appreciated.

First tip, use a paint specific for plastic NOT polycarbonate. Tamiya has a lot for their models.
Second, sand the parts with Tamiya's superfine abrasion sheets so paint can adhere better.

Priming it might also help.

Hi Marvin thanks for the tips, I admit painting is not cup of my tea
I will try to paint the chassis, expect the worst and hope for the best

Any tips for removing OLD Testers paint from a poly body?? I have my rc10 shell from when I was in 8-9th (mid 80's) grade that I painted with Testers model paint. It is flaking and I want to try and save the shell. I can scratch it off but I didn't want to spend the time (or effort) to sit and scratch the whole thing. Will the brake fluid work on it??

Thanks
Mark