RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

same layout, except theres a new dog leg where there was an S turn before. nothing crazy.

it's really not losing ground anywhere, it's my inconsistant driving.

the car rotates so well, and it's still quick as all get out. i'm running an old novak ss 17.5 with a hw 60amp xerun on full timing.
it keeps up with the mod cars just fine, i just need to get consistant.

i'll probably keep running it until they change the layout, if the new layout is mx style (big jumps) i'll put her away and break out the b4.

I would love to run my JRx2 again, but I have one of the first production runs, and the parts break very easily. Someday I will clean it up and shelf it.


I saw a JRX2 for sale at the VONATs this year, thought about buying it, but before I could track down the owner it was sold. I heard it went for $45.00


Plus I am just getting my RC-10 to the point where I can actually keep up with you guys .

The real issue isn't that it had too much or too little steering, but rather where it had steering. A trailing arm car with links attached so far forward on the chassis will tend to cause the steering to be very responsive to throttle input. This means, that in high speed sweepers or turns where the chassis has flattened out (e.g. weight is back on the front end) but you are on the throttle, the car should have plenty of steering. In the corner off throttle, the car should have (if setup for it) plenty of steering. It is the transition from low speed to high speed, where the steering can suffer. A slow throttle transition will give you good on-power steering. a high throttle transition (e.g. stabbing it) will really lift the front end -usually causing an on power push. So really it was a matter of consistency to throttle input in regard to the steering. This is not as big an issue on loose, or tight point and shoot style tracks. It's the medium size high bite tracks were the car really started to suffer. Especially when the newer breed of high traction tires came into play not long after its release. The "H" arm style suspension offered a more consistent steering pattern throughout the throttle range. Not to mention fewer moving parts. -Jeff

Jay Dub wrote:The real issue isn't that it had too much or too little steering, but rather where it had steering. A trailing arm car with links attached so far forward on the chassis will tend to cause the steering to be very responsive to throttle input. This means, that in high speed sweepers or turns where the chassis has flattened out (e.g. weight is back on the front end) but you are on the throttle, the car should have plenty of steering. In the corner off throttle, the car should have (if setup for it) plenty of steering. It is the transition from low speed to high speed, where the steering can suffer. A slow throttle transition will give you good on-power steering. a high throttle transition (e.g. stabbing it) will really lift the front end -usually causing an on power push. So really it was a matter of consistency to throttle input in regard to the steering. This is not as big an issue on loose, or tight point and shoot style tracks. It's the medium size high bite tracks were the car really started to suffer. Especially when the newer breed of high traction tires came into play not long after its release. The "H" arm style suspension offered a more consistent steering pattern throughout the throttle range. Not to mention fewer moving parts. -Jeff

Thanks again Jeff.

Jirka

I'm no expert, just a weekend racer (was anyway). I had a JRxT that I converted to buggy to the use the longer arms, ext that came with the truck version. What I remember most about the 5 link set up was that the lower arms kept hanging up in my rear shock springs. Now my driving skill wasn't NATS level, but I did OK with the group I was racing with.

Undoubtedly there was plenty that could have been adjusted and fine tuned, but the spring hang up is what I remember the most.