Re: Stealth 2.25 build tips and tricks.
Posted: Tue Apr 17, 2012 9:41 am
not steel, aluminum (or was it titanium), made by hg. long disco'd but i think he has one in his bst thread.
SnoopMaxx wrote:Where did you find the steel diff gear for the 2,25 ??askbob wrote:Thanks for the tips Brandon! I did go ahead and purchase ceramics from Avid for the trans, and even found ceramic ball bearings for the diff. Probably overkill for my situation, but what the heck. The trans I'm doing for my runner is gonna be an all metal gear trans too, so might as well do it up right. I also purchased ceramic diff and thrust balls. Haven't seen much talk of them?
Aside from sanding the diff rings and thrust washers, any thoughts on polishing gears on an all metal geared trans? Thinking of using a dremel with a little metal polish.
I already have the RRP steel idler for my build
Morten
askbob wrote:SnoopMaxx wrote:Where did you find the steel diff gear for the 2,25 ??askbob wrote:Thanks for the tips Brandon! I did go ahead and purchase ceramics from Avid for the trans, and even found ceramic ball bearings for the diff. Probably overkill for my situation, but what the heck. The trans I'm doing for my runner is gonna be an all metal gear trans too, so might as well do it up right. I also purchased ceramic diff and thrust balls. Haven't seen much talk of them?
Aside from sanding the diff rings and thrust washers, any thoughts on polishing gears on an all metal geared trans? Thinking of using a dremel with a little metal polish.
I already have the RRP steel idler for my build
Morten
It is a gear made by HG. I just sold the last one I had left in the BST section. They are basically non-existant as I just got lucky last year and found a few new ones.
Sorry for the noob type question, but why do you use a B4 top shaft and slipper? Is there an advantage to this? or is it just that they are readily available?Brandon G wrote:+1 on the B4 top shaft and slipper. You can get these parted out of new T4, B4, or SC10's on ebay for cheap.
Brandon G wrote: You will need to replace the thrust balls every time though. Many times people will rebuild their diff using new rings and diff balls but reuse the thrust assembly, then wonder why their diff still feels crunchy. Many times the thrust bearing is the main culprit.
Here's the GBX diff gear, It's a 48T gear so it won't fit the 2,25 but only the 2,4 like the B2 and B3Janus wrote:Ok, it's getting hard to source outdrives (asc6577/asc6578). For me anyway, or maybe I'm just looking in the wrong places.
Now I just try and bid on a decent stealh on ebay, just to get some outdrives.
so I was wondering, does anyone know / have experience if the costum works outdrives work in a 2.25 stealth ?
These are the ones I'm talking about:
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXNTU7&P=7
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXNTU8&P=7
..... ok back to the drawingboard, thanks for the info thoughSnoopMaxx wrote:Here's the GBX diff gear, It's a 48T gear so it won't fit the 2,25 but only the 2,4 like the B2 and B3
Unless you have a lathe and turn them down to the 2,25 size
Morten
Not a direct fit. The 2.25 rings have smaller I.D. and custome works rings O.D. won't fit the gear.Janus wrote:Ok, it's getting hard to source outdrives (asc6577/asc6578). For me anyway, or maybe I'm just looking in the wrong places.
Now I just try and bid on a decent stealh on ebay, just to get some outdrives.
so I was wondering, does anyone know / have experience if the costum works outdrives work in a 2.25 stealth ?
These are the ones I'm talking about:
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXNTU7&P=7
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXNTU8&P=7