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GreenHell wrote:To remove most of the slop (rocking motion) in the steering rack the two metal sleeves need to be shortened slightly, only remove a little material at a time to make sure you don’t overdo it or it will bind. Unlike on-road you don’t want the steering completely without any play you’ll end up with a twitchy race car.

you can reduce the axial slop this way (or shim it away) but not the radial one from the plastic...

The discussion on slop is an interesting one

in touring car I was running a xray t1 FK05 a few years back, zero slop, working well. Then I switched to a HB cyclone which I kept for 3 years, regularly updating it and the thing was FULL of slop... and it was very good. Then I bought a T3, again, zero slop, and it's stupid fast and easy to drive, a real razor blade... so at least in onroad, no slop doesn't hurt. In offroad it might be a bit different, but then again there is "functional" slop and "abusive" slop... the B44.1 is somewhat on the "abusive" end of the spectrum IMHO...

Paul

every one has a valid point here. lets put it like this... every race car needs to be tweaked and gone through every race or every other race. a few arms and hubs here and there to keep the car tight wont hurt. I DONT think you will be displeased at all with the b44.1. This car has a soft spot in my heart I guess because I drive it the hardest of all my cars and takes a licken and keeps on ticken. It looks like you are from LA. thats like the rc capitol of the world. OCRC is probably pretty close by you. lotts of pros and knowledgeable staff are there. you may want to stop in and check out a race and see what the locals are running. also watch the cars in action on the track. that might help your decision..