RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

drbelleville wrote:If you are keeping it on a budget one way to get the most out of those shocks is to polish the shock shaft with 1000 grit, a drill and some Brass-O (polishing compound). Once polished they will have less tendency to scratch or damage the seals, and also pick up dirt and debris. Also I see that one shock end is shorter than the other, could have been done to limit travel, but its better to run an internal limiter in the shock, so you do not risk pulling the shaft out of the ball end, and possibly losing you retainer and spring.

Hope this helps a bit.

-Maurice

Indeed it does , thank you .

I am not thrilled with the cut down end but it will work for now . This thing is a LONG ways from seeing any actual use . I am hoping to score some real shocks for it at some point .
Right now I am just making the most out of what I have to work with and seeing where it goes.

Most of the parts came off the oval roller ( and it was well raced ! ) and the setup was ........Different !
The rear shocks were set up to the point of binding .

I couldn't get a decent shot of it but the ouside shocks really showed substantial wear as opposed to the other side.

Rat

Back to taking worthless junk and turning it into worthless junk as an assembly ( optimised junk ? ) !

OK , I decided the RPM tranny was the way to go , I needed to get some aluminum chips in the air .

You dont know it yet , but your looking at the ratdude conversion template .



The block of wood allows me to screw it all together AND provide a stable platform for my drill press



Hows this for composite construction ?



No turning back now , oval chassis removed , didn,t want to run the risk of a stray drill bit damaging it .



First test fit to see if I succeeded ( I did ) , holes not coutersunk yet .




I'll be darned, It's gray



Progress ( no matter how bad )





Rat

MOST the time you put a 4-40 nut in between the tower and the shock bushing.then do same for the bottom if you dont they will bind up and prematurely wear out the orings.DON

Just to show em I guess , And I am still not sure if they are truck rims are not ?

The most glue encrusted , yellow wheels possibly in the history of RC !

Behold !



This took LOTS of acetone .



Oh, the clever adjectives I learned to express my joy .

Rat

OK some progress has been made . the tranny has had all the bearings cleaned and oiled , and a few parts have been transferred over from the oval roller . I put on a " mystery " black stock motor from the stash to kind of check the fit of things and run the tranny a bit .





Rat

Lookn great and not so much like junk no more lol DON

PS: i love to look through other guys car they call junk,thats where i shop for rcs

THUNDERSTRIKE1 wrote:Lookn great and not so much like junk no more lol DON

PS: i love to look through other guys car they call junk,thats where i shop for rcs

Thanks for the kind words.

I kind of berate myself a bit , I see the quality of work a lot of the guys have up on the forum and can't help but feel my contribution might be a bit ..... underwhelming , is the word I would use I guess .

But it's what I love to do , bring the dead back to life , on the ( relative ) cheap .

Rat

Until you had to have paypal i used to purchase other guys toss the side not up to snuff parts refurbish and reuse them. Sometimes creating one off
mutants if you will,with anything rc lol . Im startn to play with aluminum and my new machine to see what i can come up with next.DON

The yellow rims are original RC10T ones that were dyed yellow. Good luck with your runner project, it looks already good. I would replace the motor plate with one that still has the chassis brace, especially if you plan to run it...

Asso_man! wrote:The yellow rims are original RC10T ones that were dyed yellow. Good luck with your runner project, it looks already good. I would replace the motor plate with one that still has the chassis brace, especially if you plan to run it...

I was kind of wondering about the motor plate , I guess it would be ok on a carpet oval .

It's on the shopping list ( once I get some cash to dispose of ).

I will be swapping parts quite a bit as I get better ones .

And yes, I plan on running it . For me the build IS fun , but the payoff is seeing it in action .

Rat

Well I locked myself in the shop tonight and started to re assemble things .

Front suspension is on , steering linkage , servo mounts , battery cup ( which doesn't seem like it will work with my packs ), and rear bulkhead .






Hows this for a vintage choice ? ( provided it works , lol )



Also I am ready to start picking out a body , any suggestions ? It doesn't have to be a dead on copy of the original , just has to fit .

Rat

are the threaded rods 4-40 thread or 6-32 on the turnbuckles ( suspension linkages )?

like to fab some non rusting ones for the project

Rat

4-40

This body will fit with no problems.
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LX2708&P=7

Thanks guys !