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Wait, that gear cover is what??

USA-1 wrote:I do all mine by hand and I prefer just drills and files. I did this A&L Gear cover in G-10 just to see if it was possible.

Whoopsie - That´s a serious good looking gear cover. You´re going to have alot of requests from refurbishing snails

What car is that?

So that gear cover is layers of G-10 with the inner parts cut out?

Anyway, a diamond-coated large diameter cutting disk is excellent for cutting long straight lines into glassfiber sheet, I discovered yesterday. Copied the Ultima shock towers and top deck, top deck looks pretty good for a first try, shock towers are a bit rough. Might also have to make a new front shock tower later on; 2mm thick glassfiber seems to be a bit on the thin side despite altering the tower design and adding an additional reinforcement bar.
I'm going for the Porsche, by the way. The body turned out to be salvagable while the truck wheels turned out to be four rear wheels with some stupid assembly at the front and two tires out of four destroyed.

Right now it consists of original chassis, custom shock towers and top deck, Cross Super-10 universals, 3Racing ZX-5 rear uprights, Tamiya drive hexes, Kyosho turnbuckles, A&L Lethal Weapon 2 tranny, A&L steering set for a Kyosho Spider GP, Kyosho Rampage front bulkhead, bumper, c-hubs, and front uprights, GPM servo mounts, Kyosho Scale Car Ferrari Testarossa wheels, and the Porsche body with some Kyosho ZR-1 stickers for decoration. Of this, only the A&L tranny was newly bought.
The Super-10 universals had to be modified and needed an additional spacer added, the rear uprights had to be shimmed and narrow the rear track a bit (looks better with the body), the steering has some original assembly, and I had to countersink the forward two screws of the A&L tranny's top plate and cut some plastic off the rear body mount to make the A&L tranny and the Scale Car body mount work together. So it's a bit of a hodge-podge of parts. To do: rebuild gold shocks, come up with a better battery mount system for a hardcase lipo, get ball bearings for the front wheels, and finish fixing the body.

I had a bunch of scrap pieces laying around from all my mods, I just use drills cuts down on the dust and mistakes.
RC10T CC chassis, handmade top deck, battery holder, rear shock towers, rear brace and gear cover.


Forgot the adjustable front steering extender mod saves from drilling holes in chassis.

USA-1 wrote:I had a bunch of scrap pieces laying around from all my mods, I just use drills cuts down on the dust and mistakes.
RC10T CC chassis, handmade top deck, battery holder, rear shock towers, rear brace and gear cover.


Forgot the adjustable front steering extender mod saves from drilling holes in chassis.

what material is the top deck and stuff made out of and where did you get it? looks amazing!

EvolutionRevolution wrote:Yeah, I've been wondering whether simply copying them onto glassfiber sheet wouldn't be the best option.

Those carbon fiber bits look nice. What dremel bit did you use to cut them out?

For those CF parts above I used a "diamond cut off wheel" and then just plain "drum sanders" for trimming. I bought the CF (2.0 and 2.5mm) from Hobbyking. Cheap bling and it's good to know that you can always create another parts if it breaks

/j0pp3

what material is the top deck and stuff made out of and where did you get it? looks amazing!

http://www.mcmaster.com/#garolite-plastic/=i7wlef

Realized I never actually posted any pictures of the car's current condition, so here we go:

As the project stands, with custom top deck and shock towers: Still have to figure out a custom battery mount system. I might make a new top deck that moves the servo to the right side of the car just in front of the rear shock tower, so I can put the battery in lengthwise...

Front end, with homemade fiberglass shock tower with some reinforcement compared to the stock piece, Rampage front bulkhead and hinge pins and bumper, refreshed gold shocks, and some turnbuckles: Steering comes from a Factory Works set for the Spider GP with some original assembly to make everything work bumpsteer free: Homemade rear tower: The rear end had the transmission replaced with an A&L Lethal Weapon 2 tranny in hot pink, with the A&L slipper: The rear arms are stock, the rear uprights are 3Racing parts for the TF-5 that I had left over from another project. They required some spacing using shims to get them in the right place. The universals are modified Cross FW-03 Super10 universals with a spacer added and alloy Tamiya drive hexes. I also used a GP-10 shock mount set by Cross on the rear shocks and replaced the original springs with some softer ones from a GP-10. The rear end is narrowed compared to the stock pieces, which works better with the Porsche body:

Looks interesting, EvoRevo...I like those Cross U-joints, are they stock Optima length? I'd love a set of those for my Zebra Optima.

What are you going for with this build, an onroad car?

Coelacanth wrote:Looks interesting, EvoRevo...I like those Cross U-joints, are they stock Optima length? I'd love a set of those for my Zebra Optima.

The dogbone part is somewhat shorter by about 4-5 mm, while the outdrive part is the same longer. Because the Super 10 uses different upright bearings I also had to pry off two alloy 'hats' that allow the outdrive to sit deeper inside the uprights.

What are you going for with this build, an onroad car?

The body can be salvaged, so back to Scale Car origins with this. Also, I managed to source a body that's supposedly painted but brand new

EvolutionRevolution wrote:

Coelacanth wrote:Looks interesting, EvoRevo...I like those Cross U-joints, are they stock Optima length? I'd love a set of those for my Zebra Optima.

The dogbone part is somewhat shorter by about 4-5 mm, while the outdrive part is the same longer. Because the Super 10 uses different upright bearings I also had to pry off two alloy 'hats' that allow the outdrive to sit deeper inside the uprights.

Actually, I just realized those aren't dogbones, they're universals. Weren't gold universals an optional Option House item for...was it the Rocky or Turbo Rocky or something? Just wondering if those weren't actually made by Cross, but Kyosho Option House...

Coelacanth wrote: Actually, I just realized those aren't dogbones, they're universals. Weren't gold universals an optional Option House item for...was it the Rocky or Turbo Rocky or something? Just wondering if those weren't actually made by Cross, but Kyosho Option House...

You mean these?
http://www.worthpoint.com/worthopedia/kyosho-option-house-gold-joints-74194616

As evo mentioned higher up these are 4-5 mm shorter than the optima ones. You can tell cause the optima ones would never fit between the outdrives and those rear axle carriers.
(the optima rear carriers having lots more offset)